(Spicy Charred Pasta)

Spaghetti all’Assassina, or “Assassin’s Spaghetti” shows that sometimes it pays to break the rules! This Southern Italian favorite cooks the spaghetti right in a spicy tomato sauce until it’s crispy, singed, and totally irresistible.

Nicholas Antonacci, a Bari-based maître-sommelier and chef by trade who in 1981, at just sixteen years old, was promoted to demi chef at Il Sorso Preferito, offers a slightly different version of events. He recounts how an angry spaghetti all’arrabbiata slowly evolved into a killer spaghetti all’assassina.

Initially serving chilled meats and cheeses, Antonacci explains how chef and owner Enzo Francavilla gradually introduced hot dishes in response to popular demand, including a fiery spaghetti all’arrabbiata. With time, the well-used iron pans used to cook the arrabbiata sauce began to yield a charred, caramelised crust adding new depth to the dish. “This is a killer!”, declared one diner—and spaghetti all’assassina was born.

By the late 1970s, the restaurant passed into new hands: maître d’s Giuseppe Saracino and Mimì De Cosmo, alongside chef Gaetano “Nanuccio” Lonigro. The trio would go on to acquire another of the city’s landmark restaurants, Marc’Aurelio, later bringing in Pierino Lonigro—Nanuccio’s brother and a skilled chef in his own right. It was during this period spaghetti all’assassina made the leap from off-menu curiosity to a fully fledged first course.

Antonacci notes that many chefs who passed through Il Sorso Preferito and its sister restaurant Marc’Aurelio took fragments of the assassina story with them—recipes adapted, origins forgotten, and in some cases, credit claimed.

Today, Il Sorso Preferito remains in the ownership of Pierino Lonigro who, with his nephew Vincenzo in the kitchen, is still serving up the dish.

Assassina | the risottatura “error”​

I burnt the garlic in an iron pan with oil and chilli—not just browned, but burnt—and then removed it.

Into the boiling oil, I poured raw, hand-crushed peeled tomatoes, causing a flare-up. That flare-up was the ‘joy of the kitchen,’ which I immediately covered with a lid. The resulting smoke remained inside, imparting a smoky flavour to the spaghetti, as if they were burnt, but they were actually roasted.

Meanwhile, I brought water and salt to the boil and cooked the spaghetti—actually vermicelli—until just before al dente, when they began to bend. I drained them well and added them to the pan with the tomato to absorb the flavours. I stirred continuously, adding more raw, crushed tomatoes if they became too dry, and continued cooking until the pasta was done and the tomato had thickened. I tasted them to check the cooking, flavour, and salt, then gave them a superficial toasting. I finished by adding a little oil to give them a sheen, and my recipe was complete.

Assassin’s Spaghetti proves that sometimes letting things burn is the best way to develop the flavor.  They wouldn’t be quite the same without that brave first person who let them burn!

How to Make Spaghetti all’Assassina 

I think it goes without saying that you don’t have to be a professional chef to make Assassin’s Spaghetti. You’re trying to burn it after all! But it does take a little faith to avoid fussing with it too much. Here are the steps:

Make a tomato broth. Bring 4 cups of water to a boil in a medium saucepan set over high heat, then stir in 1/4 cup tomato paste and season generously with salt. Turn off the heat, leaving the pan on the burner.

Prepare the tomato sauce. Set a wide, deep skillet (large enough to lay the spaghetti in it without breaking) over medium-high heat. Add 3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil. When the oil begins to shimmer, add 2 sliced chili peppers and 2 minced garlic cloves. Cook, stirring regularly until fragrant, no more than 30 seconds. Add 16 ounces of tomato sauce to the skillet (not the tomato broth you made earlier, we’ll use that in a minute). Bring the sauce to a simmer, about 5 minutes. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper.

Slighly burn the spaghetti. Place the (uncooked) spaghetti in the skillet with the hot chili and oil and garlic

Coat the spaghetti. Place 12 ounces (uncooked) spaghetti in the skillet with the hot chili and tomato sauce. Use a large spoon to spread the spaghetti in one layer, pushing down and spooning the sauce over the top so the noodles are well-coated. Turn the heat to high and let it sit until the pasta has absorbed some of the sauce, about 3 minutes.

Cook the spaghetti. When the pan starts to look dry, add a ladleful of the warmed tomato broth. Do not move or toss the pasta, as it is meant to absorb the tomato broth and char some of the noodles at the bottom. Once the majority of the broth has been absorbed, add another ladle or two of the tomato broth over the pasta. Reduce the heat to medium-high. Continue to ladle the tomato broth over the pasta, letting it absorb the broth before each new addition.

Flip. When you’ve used about half the broth, use tongs to turn the spaghetti over. You should see dark, almost burnt-looking crispy pieces. Continue ladling in the broth and allowing the spaghetti to absorb and char until you’ve used all of the broth.

Finish and serve. Remove from heat and transfer to pasta bowls. Serve immediately, with a spoonful of burrata on top if you’d like.

Rich and creamy homemade baked mac and cheese, filled with multiple layers of shredded cheeses, smothered in a smooth cheese sauce, and baked until bubbly and perfect!

Chef Tips

As a caveat, this recipe, as with most mac and cheese recipes, loses some of it’s creaminess when made ahead.  This dish has been tested when made right away, which yields the best results.  

I would increase the amount of sauce slightly if you need to make this recipe ahead of time.

BAKED MAC AND CHEESE

Baked mac and cheese.  It’s nearly the universal comfort food, and there are SO many variations!  In fact, I almost didn’t post this recipe, as there are SOOOO many mac and cheese recipes available, and most people already have their favorite way of making it.

HOW TO MAKE MAC AND CHEESE

If you’ve never made homemade mac and cheese before, it can seem a bit daunting.  But don’t worry, we’ll break it down and take it step by step!

• Boil the pasta, drain.
• Make the cheese sauce by combining a fat (butter), and starch (flour), then whisking in the milk products.
• Cook the sauce until it’s nice and thick.
• Add in shredded cheeses, stir well.
• Combine cheese sauce with cooked pasta.
• Transfer half of the mac and cheese to a baking dish, sprinkle with more shredded cheese.
• Top with the rest of the mac and cheese, top with more shredded cheese.
• Bake and prepare to thoroughly enjoy!

COOKING TIPS FOR BAKED MAC AND CHEESE

• Boiling the pasta – cook the pasta less than you normally would.  I like to boil my elbow pasta for between 4 and 5 minutes.  The pasta will continue to cook in the oven, and you don’t want it to get mushy.
• Use room temp liquids – if you can… cold liquids generally take longer to thicken than warmer ones.  I usually set my milk and half and half out while the water for the pasta is coming up to a boil.
• The cheeses – use your favorites!  Our personal favorites are the cheddar and gruyere used in this recipe, but you can be very creative with the cheese selection here.  Mozzarella, gouda, smoked gouda, swiss, monterey jack, colby jack, colby.  There are plenty of reader comments down below the recipe that talk about the cheeses they used!
• Shred your own – I know it’s a pain, and it’s SO tempting to use the pre-shredded cheese in the bags.  But those bags of cheese contain a starchy substance that keeps the cheese from clumping… which also prohibits it from melting as well as it should.

VARIATIONS OF MAC AND CHEESE

• Bacon – if you love bacon, feel free to add some crispy, crumbled bacon to the topping, or even inside the mac and cheese as well!
• Stovetop – if you’d prefer not to bake this mac and cheese, you don’t have to! Make sure you boil your pasta until al dente (check the packaging for correct times), and you’ll only need about 3 – 3 1/2 cups of cheese total.  No need to layer the pasta and cheese, just add all the cheese to the sauce, then combine with the pasta.
• Different Toppings – I’m a huge fan of the cheese layer on top, since it gets nice and crispy, but we also love tossing 1 cup of panko with 2 Tbsp of melted butter and using that as a topping.  1 cup of crushed Ritz crackers with 2 Tbsp of butter work amazingly well too!
• Different Baking Times – the recipe calls for a lower baking temperature and time, but most of the time I find myself adjusting that based on my family’s tastes.  I like to bake this mac and cheese at 350 F degrees for 30 minutes, then broil for 2-3 minutes to get that glorious cheesy “crust”.

MAKING MAC AND CHEESE AHEAD OF TIME

• Make as directed (but do not bake), transfer to baking dish and cool completely.  Cover tightly with foil and refrigerate 1-2 days ahead.
• Before baking, let dish sit on counter for 30 minutes.
• Bake at recipe temperature for 25-35 minutes, until hot and bubbly.

STORING MAC AND CHEESE

Any leftovers need to be refrigerated and covered tightly.  Mac and cheese can be stored this way for 3-4 days. source