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What is a Wi-Fi Pineapple? How to Protect Yourself From Pineapple Attacks

The Truth News — Fri, 10 Jul 2026 21:00:06 +0000

What is a Wi-Fi Pineapple? How to Protect Yourself From Pineapple Attacks

Wi-Fi Pineapples trick you into connecting to fake networks, in an attempt to compromise your security and data.
Protect yourself by avoiding public Wi-Fi, using VPNs, and watching for suspicious activity.
Businesses should invest in secure Wi-Fi hardware, monitor their networks for unknown devices, and pay attention to what their IT department says.

“Wi-Fi Pineapple” is a silly name for a real threat to your cybersecurity. These devices trick you into connecting to fake Wi-Fi networks to intercept data and compromise your privacy. Here’s how to protect against Pineapples and Wi-Fi attacks.

What Is a Wi-Fi Pineapple?

A Wi-Fi Pineapple is a device ostensibly sold for Wi-Fi security auditing, that can also be used to perform real attacks on your devices.

It’s not literally a pineapple (though I’m sure some enterprising hacker out there has at least attempted to house a Raspberry Pi in an actual pineapple fruit), but named because early devices resembled pineapples, with antennas sticking out at all angles much like pineapple leaves.

“Wi-Fi Pineapple” referred to a specific commercial device that automates man-in-the-middle attacks, but these attacks can also be performed with readily available off-the-shelf hardware, including laptops and single board computers.

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How Do Wi-Fi Attacks Work?

There are two main types of attacks that use Wi-Fi networks: “evil twin” attacks impersonate known Wi-Fi networks, and trick your device into connecting to them, intercepting data and potentially giving remote access to your device. “Rogue AP (access point)” attacks advertise open networks in the hope that naive or internet-desperate users will connect, with the same outcomes.

Malicious Wi-Fi hotspots are set up in coffee shops, airports, and hotels in an attempt to get you to connect without any technical trickery. Often, simply naming the network something legitimate-sounding (like the name of the hotel) is enough to fool people into thinking it’s the real deal.

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For individuals, the primary threat of joining a malicious Wi-Fi network is the interception and recording of the data that is transmitted: emails, social network logins, and other sensitive information (including what websites you visit) can be recorded, and even if encrypted, there’s still the possibility that they can be exploited. Devices with improperly configured firewalls may also be remotely accessed via a compromised network, putting all the data on your device at risk.

For businesses, there is an additional threat: Wi-Fi Pineapples and other malicious devices can be inserted into networks (either using an unguarded Ethernet socket, or by capturing legitimate Wi-Fi credentials and cracking them), granting the attacker unfettered access to internal company infrastructure.

How To Protect Yourself From Pineapples

The best way to protect yourself from a pineapple is to stay out of its way. Avoid public Wi-Fi if you can by tethering to your mobile phone to get online. If you do have to use public Wi-Fi, use a reputable VPN and set it up so that all internet traffic must go through it (known as a “kill switch” in some VPN interfaces). Travel routers are also great for this, allowing you to tether multiple devices or put multiple devices behind a VPN.

While an actual Wi-Fi Pineapple device may be difficult to detect, there are additional measures you can take to protect yourself from fake hotspots and man-in-the-middle attacks in general. Before you connect to a network, check for duplicates or suspicious network names, and avoid scanning QR codes to connect unless they’re in a position they’re unlikely to have been tampered with. You can also disable auto-connect for public networks you’ve joined previously so that you don’t mistakenly reconnect to an impostor.

At home, make sure you change the default Wi-Fi network and administrator passwords and set up a guest network for visitors to use. A separate IoT network for your “smart” devices can also prevent them becoming a vector for network intruders. If you notice similar network names appearing in your neighborhood, consider changing the name of your own network so you don’t accidentally connect to someone else’s.

Generally, you should always heed SSL certificate warnings and unexpected redirects that may indicate your connection has been compromised. Never log into a website or app if you see one of these warnings. If you’re on public Wi-Fi, disconnect, and if you’re at home, start taking steps to diagnose and fix the issue(or call your local tech support). If a website login screen looks different to what you’re used to, you should also be suspicious that your traffic may be being re-routed to a fake site intended to steal your details.

How Businesses Can Prevent Pineapple Attacks

If you run a business that provides Wi-Fi to staff or the public, it’s your responsibility to keep it secure. Give your IT team the time and resources they need to deploy, secure, and maintain infrastructure properly, or risk it falling out of date and being vulnerable to new attacks.

Your network should be regularly scanned for unauthorized devices and rogue Wi-Fi networks that may have been set up to trap employees or customers. If something suspicious is found, hunt down the rogue device (it might be hiding in a dusty corner under a couch in a café, for example) and remove it. Use enterprise-grade Wi-Fi hardware like Unifi that provides client isolation, management tools, and additional security features to make sure your network is under your control.

Tips for Staying Safe in a Dangerous Digital World

Antivirus and personal firewalls also play a key part in staying safe when connecting to public networks. If your device is compromised, they can help detect and block malicious software and activity so that you can secure your accounts and get your device fixed.

There’s also a laundry list of security tips and best practices you should follow to help prevent yourself becoming a victim of cybercrime. Following security advice can be inconvenient (especially when you really need to get online and you’re out of phone reception), but it’s worth it in the long run. source

How to Install Node-Red to Home Assistant – Using Node-Red for Complex Home Automations

The Truth News — Thu, 12 Jun 2025 08:57:22 +0000

How to Install Node-Red to Home Assistant – Using Node-Red for Complex Home Automations

Node-RED is a flow-based, low-code development tool for visual programming, originally developed by IBM for wiring together hardware devices, APIs and online services as part of the Internet of things. Node-RED provides a web browser-based flow editor, which can be used to create JavaScript functions.

This guide will show you how to install Node-Red to Home Assistant and take you through a basic flow.

Node-Red is a low-code development tool for building simple to complex automation flows. The software runs within a web browser and works great within Home Assistant. The software is relatively easy to learn and allows easy viewing of complex logic flows.

Using Node-Red gives you an excellent visual overview of automation flows, making it much easier to understand, edit, and create. You can build flows that control automatic gates, lights, water pumps, and more.

If you haven’t already, we reco

This tutorial will explain how to install Node-Red to Home Assistant. We also go through the basics of setting up an automation flow. Both of these topics give you a decent insight into how you can get the most out of the software.

Installing Node-Red

Node-RED: Low-code programming for event-driven applications

The installation of Node Red is very straightforward, but there are a few requirements for a smooth installation process.

To install Node-Red within Home Assistant, you must run a version that supports add-ons such as supervised or the operating system. Alternatively, you can set up Node-Red as a separate docker and connect it to Home Assistant.

1. Within the Home Assistant web interface, click on the settings tab and then click on add-ons.

2. Click on add-store in the bottom right corner of the screen.

3. Using the search box, search for Node Red. Alternatively, you can scroll through the page until you find the Node-Red add-on.

4. The page you should now see will contain all the details about the add-on. You can check through all the details if you want to know what you are about to install. Once you are ready to install, click Install.

5. Now, navigate to the configuration tab. In this tab, locate the credential_secret field and enter a strong password. Make sure you save this password, as you may need it in the future. I use 1Password for storing passwords, but other software such as Bitwarden or Nordpass (Affiliate Link) would also be solid choices.

You will also need to disable SSL if it is not enabled on your Home Assistant installation. To disable SSL, click the SSL button so it is greyed out. If you leave it on and Home Assistant does not support SSL, Node-Red will fail to start.

Once you are done, click on save.

6. After you have saved the credential secret and disabled SSL, return to the info tab. On this page, click on “Start“. Node-Red should start without issue. If it is not starting, navigate to the log tab and look through the logs for errors.

7. If you click on Node-Red in the sidebar or “Open Web UI” on the add-on page, it will take you to the Node-Red application. You can now start writing your flows to automate your Home Assistant setup.

Creating your First Node-Red Flow

Node-Red can be a little daunting at first, but once you understand the basics, it is a powerful tool that allows you to handle complex and simple automations.

In this short tutorial, we will go through the basics of creating a flow that uses a Home Assistant node.

The following steps will take you through how to send a notification whenever the temperature of our weather station exceeds 15°C.

1. The first node we will use is the “Events: State” node. Drag this node onto the grid

Next, double-click on the node to open the options available. Fill in each of the relevant properties. Below is what I filled in.

Name: Check Temperature
Server: Home Assistant
Entity: Outdoor Temperature
If State: >= 15 (Greater or equal to 15)
For: 1 Minute
State type: Number

I also do not have any checkboxes ticked for “Ignore State Change Event When“.

2. Next, drag and drop a debug node. These nodes will output data that can help diagnose and fix issues with your flows.

On each node, there are dots. These dots represent different functions. For example, our Check Temperature node has two dots. One is for when our logic is false, and the other for when it is true.

We click and drag our true node and connect it to the debug node.

The flow will run when you click deploy in the top right-hand corner.

In this example, if the temperature exceeds 15°C, the debug node will output after 1 minute. If it is not higher than 15°C, nothing will output.

3. Next, we will want to notify our users that the temperature is too high. To do this, drag a “Call Service” node onto the grid. Connect the true output to the input on the “Call Service” Node.

Now, double-click on the call service node to edit it. Fill in each of the relevant properties. Below is what I filled in.

Name: Enter the name that you want the node to be referred to.
Server: You shouldn’t need to update this as it should be Home Assistant.
Domain: You will need to set this to notify.
Service: Choose a device that you wish to notify. Choosing the notify option will notify all possible users.
Data: This is where you need to specify the notification details. At the bottom of the properties is an example. Clicking “Load Example Data” will pre-populate the data field, which you can easily edit.

Below is an example of my entry into the data field.

{
   "message":"Temperature is too High!",
   "title":"The temperature is higher than 15°C."	
}Copy

4. To avoid too many notifications, you may want to place a delay node. This node will allow a single notification to be sent for a specified time. To do this, drag and drop a delay node in between our check temperature and notify gus nodes.

Double-click on the delay node and update the settings to the following.

Action: Rate Limit and All Messages.
Rate: 1 msg(s) per 15 minutes.
Change Queue Intermediate Messages to Drop Intermediate Messages
Name: Rate Limit

These properties will allow a single message every fifteen minutes. Any messages that try to be sent in the meantime will be dropped.

5. You should now have a basic flow that will notify users whenever the temperature goes above 15°C for over a minute. Feel free to change and alter this flow for other purposes.

You can remove the debug node if you are finished debugging. Alternatively, you can click the green square next to the node to deactivate it.

Conclusion

I hope you now have Node-Red installed and configured on your Home Assistant installation. Our basic flow introduced some basics of using the software to run automations. Once you understand the basics, you can create some cool automations using the data from some of the sensors and devices in your home.

We are constantly working on more Home Assistant tutorials, so if there is anything that you would like to see, please let us know. I recommend checking out some of the other tutorials for great ideas on what you can do with this amazing software.

If you encounter any problems or have any suggestions, please do not hesitate to leave a comment down below. source

Node-RED, the visual programming tool for Internet of Things

From the beginning of programming, one of the industry’s main challenges has been to facilitate the applications development to simplify the integration between the hardware devices, the software and us, the humans. Thanks to Node-RED we are much closer of this goal. Programming, without programming.

What is Node-RED and what is it for?

Node-RED is an open-source development tool based on visual programming that was created by IBM to connect hardware devices, APIs and online services.

Node-RED is a solid tool, easy to learn, and it does not require any programming knowledge. It has been consolidated as one of the main applications for real-time data management and transformation for IoT and Industry 4.0 solutions.

Node-RED allows to graphically connect predefined blocks, called nodes, to develop a concrete task. The nodes connection, usually a combination of input nodes, processing nodes and output nodes, when wired together, make up a flow.

Among all the available nodes we can find standard protocols as MQTT, REST, Modbus, OPC-UA, Bacnet, Websocket; and third party API integrations as Microsoft Azure, Amazon Web Services, Twitter, Facebook and many more.

Where can I install Node-RED?

Node-RED is built on Node.js, taking full advantage of its power and assuring scalability, liability and low hardware requirements. These features allow to run Node-RED in personal computers, cloud servers and low-cost embedded hardware.

If you want to take your first steps in Node-RED you just need to click here to access to all the documentation. Follow step by step how to install the tool on your computer, your cloud services regular provider or your embedded device eManager.

Nodes library

The nature of the tool, being open source, and the facility to develop new nodes, come together into a nodes library which grows each day with new community contributions.

Nowadays we can find more than 2500 available nodes in the Node-RED official library, including Smart Home integrations, converters between IoT protocols, geolocation functions, OAuth2 authentication and many more.

Hello world in Node-RED

To conclude this article there is no better way than taking your first steps on Node-RED generating the classic Hello world. Below, we show step by step the process to achieve it:

Message creation with Inject node

If you are running Node-RED on your computer, you can access http://127.0.0.1:1880 or whatever address or hostname you’re using
If it is our first time in Node-RED, we will see a flow named Flow 1
On the node palette on the left side of the Node-RED, we will select the Inject node and will drag it onto our flow
In order to edit the node we will double click on it. After that, we will select string on the Payload field and we will write Hello world!
Once we finish the previous steps, we click Done

Printing our message

In order to add a destination for our message we will select the Debug node. We will click and drag it onto our flow. It’s very important to place it on the right-hand side of the Inject node
To connect both nodes we just need to click the Inject node’s output and drag it to the Debug node’s input. A wire that links both nodes will be created
Debug node will automatically print the message to the console window as we will see in the next step

Deployment

In order to start our application you must click on Deploy button
Now click the Debug tab in the right-hand side of the editor window
Finally, to launch our message you will click on the blue button coming out from the left-hand side of the Inject node
“Hello world” will appear on the Debug screen. Welcome to Node-RED!

As PickData, we firmly believe in solutions like Node-RED, because those allow you to focus on what really matters, bring our added value to the solutions and skip losing time between ins and outs of the usual programming. source

Node-RED has replaced my complex Home Assistant automations, and it does them so much better

The self-hosting ecosystem is rife with cool and quirky apps designed to automate every facet of your life. There’s the holy Terraform and Ansible combo for home lab enthusiasts who love watching VMs come to life without pressing a single button, while n8n can handle all software-based automations. On the smart home side, you’ll often find Home Assistant as the most recommended utility for creating schematics to control your IoT gadgets. And well, HASS can serve you well with its trigger-action workflows.

For YAML experts, you can even design long scripts to automate your smart home. But once you get into complicated workflows involving multiple sensors, actuators, and if-else statements, HASS starts to become rather unintuitive. While I still rely on Home Assistant for quick automations, Node-RED is my preferred platform for creating extended automation workflows spanning several smart devices in my living space.

There’s nothing you can’t pull off with Home Assistant blueprints

It pairs well with my Home Assistant devices

But HASS isn’t the only data server for my Node-RED instance

I consider Home Assistant the centerpiece of my rat’s nest of an apartment and have mapped most smart devices, IoT gadgets, and even home lab equipment (via HACS integrations) to my HASS hub. As such, it acts as a data-gathering terminal in addition to its role as a control center.

Since my Node-RED instance is connected to my HASS server, it can directly grab statistics from my devices and push any message payloads I define in my custom workflows. I use a standalone Node-RED container instead of running it on top of Home Assistant, so I don’t have to rely on just HASS for my smart home automation.

On that subject, I’ve already connected my Node-RED server to a Raspberry Pi-based MQTT broker, so I can automate MQTT communication with just these services. Heck, it even integrates with external APIs and webhooks, making it perfect for the times when I want to use the VMs and containers from my Proxmox server for my home automation projects.

Amazing for automation chains

The node-based workflow makes everything easier

Upon first glance, a Node-RED canvas filled to the brim with node chains, functions, and variables can seem intimidating. However, the ability to represent every device as a node makes it easy to organize everything, and I can import multiple IoT products inside a single workflow.

On Home Assistant, I’d have to cycle between the Entities, Helpers, Scripts, and Events tabs every time I want to create a multi-device automation chain. Besides the added advantage of accessing my smart devices from a single page, Node-RED lets me reuse the function nodes as many times as I want, which is a godsend for projects requiring complex if-else logic with branching instructions.

No more YAML shenanigans

Although YAML syntax is nowhere near as complex as a mainstream programming language’s coding rules, it’s a pain to design complicated workflows with it. Home Assistant makes YAML scripting somewhat easy with the Developer Tools tab, but it’s far from the most intuitive option, especially since I can just use Node-RED.

That’s because Node-RED has a minimal coding approach, as even the most complicated automation can be arranged in a node-based workflow. This visual aspect makes it easier to add nested logic, chains of loops, and long branches in a Node-RED canvas. As if that’s not enough, I can install custom modules and libraries for most communication protocols and external APIs in Node-RED.

Solid troubleshooting provisions

Finally, Node-RED makes finding errors in my workflow a cinch. It’s a lot easier to detect errors in a Node-RED-based flow than a huge YAML file, where I can have several indentation errors because of accidentally pressing the Spacebar or Enter keys. In contrast, my mistakes are infinitely easier to catch on Node-RED’s canvas, as I can see how the different gadgets affect each other.

That said, HASS is better for simple automation projects

So far, I’ve only discussed why Node-RED suits my smart home projects. But I’d be biased if I didn’t talk about its drawbacks. Despite providing easier methods for automating complex projects, Node-RED has a steeper learning curve than Home Assistant. Plus, community-created blueprints are a neat utility in Home Assistant for casual users who want to quick put together motion-controlled lights.

However, if you’re looking to build something as convoluted as a surveillance system that automatically turns on the lights and sets the right thermostat temperature when it detects your presence, it’s a good idea to go with Node-RED as your automation platform. source

Home Assistant with Node-Red

Home Assistant is an open source home automation platform that can monitor and control smart home devices and it integrates with many of other common systems.

Home Assistant installation is targeted for Raspberry Pi’s but other hardware options are available.

I was very impressed how easy it was to install Home Assistant and get a basic home integration system up and running.

There is a huge number of integration solutions (1500+) that connect to most of the mainstream products. However if you want to do some custom Arduino or Raspberry Pi connections there isn’t an easy “out of the box” solution. To solve this requirement Home Assistant has included Node-Red as an add-on.

Node-RED is a visual programming tool for wiring together hardware devices, APIs and online services.

I found that getting the Node-Red integration was a little tricky. This blog will show how to get Node-Red integration working and it includes a simple simulator circuit.

Getting Started

The installation instructions are very straightforward. I would recommend using a wired connection for your Raspberry Pi. A wireless network connection is 100% possible but it is not in the base installation directions.

After the basic installation is complete, add-ons can be installed under the Supervisor->Dashboard. I would recommend installing “File editor” and “Terminal & SSH” add-ons along with Node-Red.

I found that the Node-Red installed without any problems but it required some configuration changes before it would run.

In the Node Red add-on you will need to add a credential_secret and a password.

If Node-Red doesn’t start look at the log for errors (it’s at the bottom of the same page).

The base Node-Red installation has a very good selection of pre-installed nodes. If you wish to add more nodes see the “Manage Pallet” option that is accessed from the top right options icon.

At this stage Node-Red is somewhat standalone and it is not fully integrated with Home Assistant.

Integrating Node-Red with Home Assistant

The directions and files for Node-Red integration can be downloaded to your PC.

Specifically you want to custom_components/nodered directory and files, which will need to be moved to the Raspberry Pi. The Home Assistant “File editor” add-on can be used to create Pi directories and move files from your PC.

The following directories and file should now exist:

/root/config/custom_components/nodered/__init__.py
/root/config/custom_components/nodered/__pycache__
/root/config/custom_components/nodered/binary_sensor.py
/root/config/custom_components/nodered/config_flow.py
/root/config/custom_components/nodered/const.py
/root/config/custom_components/nodered/discovery.py
/root/config/custom_components/nodered/manifest.json
/root/config/custom_components/nodered/save.txt
/root/config/custom_components/nodered/sensor.py
/root/config/custom_components/nodered/services.yaml
/root/config/custom_components/nodered/switch.py
/root/config/custom_components/nodered/websocket.py

/root/config/custom_components/nodered/.translations/en.json

Once this is complete Home Assistant will need to be restarted.

Including Node-Red Integrations

The next step is to create sensors and switches in Node-Red that can be accessed in Home Assistant. Below is a simple circuit that sends a random number (0-100) to a HA entity.

This logic uses a Big Timer node, that generates a pulse every minute from the middle output pin. An injector node allow you to force a new value. A random node will output a new random number whenever the Big Timer or Inject nodes are triggered.

Double-click on the HA entity to configure the HA server and other properties.

Once the logic is complete click the “Deploy” button to make the logic active.

Node-Red integration is enabled by adding it in the Configuration->Integration page.

Overview Dashboard with Node-Red Data

The final step is to modify the Overview Dashboard to include the Node-Red Entity.

For this example I added a gauge component using the Orange-Plus at the bottom right of this Configure UI page.

On the live Overview page it is possible to click on the gauge card and get more information about this sensor.

Final Thoughts

Home Assistant is a very well structured home automation solution that offers a number of excellent approaches to bring in data.

Node-Red is a very flexible programming environment that help expands connectivity to Arduino, Raspberry Pi and other 3rd party services that are not in the base Home Assistant software.

source

Access ANY Network (remotely) What is a Hacker Dropbox?

The Truth News — Mon, 31 Mar 2025 04:49:03 +0000

Access ANY Network (remotely) What is a Hacker Dropbox?

What is a Hacker Dropbox? (and why you need one….even if you aren’t a hacker)

Build your Hacker Dropbox with Twingate (it’s free): https://ntck.co/twingate_ztna
Raspberry Pi Imager: https://www.raspberrypi.com/software/
Buy a Raspberry Pi: Raspberry Pi 4: amazon.com
Raspberry Pi 5: amazon.com

Here is a great definition from ChatGPT: a small, discreet, and often portable device designed to be covertly placed in a target network to provide remote access for a hacker or penetration tester. It typically contains hardware and software configured to exploit the network or collect sensitive information.
If you’re a hacker…this is a no brainer. Get instant access to a remote network by dropping off a device. But….if you’re not a hacker…why do you need this?

Family HelpDesk Support

If you’re like me, you are likely the official technical support for your family and friends. I also inherited the role of helpdesk support for my church…these kinds of things just happen by default when you are in tech and people find out about your technical skills.
This isn’t an easy thing to do, especially when it comes to troubleshooting networks for your family. Is the network up? Why is it slow? Sometimes a FaceTime call just isn’t going to cut it.
If I’m going to be the support for my church and family, I’m going to take my role seriously. I need FULL control of the remote network……no more playing around!!!
With the Hacker Dropbox, I can drop off a small device, in my case it’s going to be a Raspberry Pi 4. (it can be a lot of things, as long as the device is Linux-based and is 64-bit). Instantly I get access to this remote network, enabling me to provide remote support and access any device.

This is NOT VPN

This is not a VPN (VIrtual Private Network) solution….it’s much better.
This is a ZTNA (Zero-Trust Network Access) solution. It’s called Twingate and I’ve been using them for a long time in my business and personal networks. I talk more about them in the video above but in short, they allow you to get and give remote access to networks in the most secure way. They are used by everyone from large enterprises to homelabbers looking to access their Plex server.
This isn’t the first video I’ve made about them but this is the first time I’ve featured a use-case like this.
Oh, it’s also FREE for home labbers. (And…cough….businesses that don’t have a ton of employees….like me.)

You don’t need to know ANYTHING about the network

I wanted this to be a turnkey solution even if you don’t know anything about the remote network. All you’ll have to do is plug in an ethernet cable (or connect to wifi….but you’ll need to know the SSID and password) and you will know everything you need to know about that network…..but how?
Twingate has a powerful API that allows us to do many things…including write python scripts that will automagically tell us the private IP address of our Hacker Dropbox (Raspberry Pi) and the Public IP address of the network, giving us instant access to this Hacker Dropbox AND the network.
This guide will contain that script.

What do you need?

Any Linux-based 64-bit system will do. You’ll need at least 1 CPU and 2GB RAM (recommended)…but you can go as low as 512MB of RAM.
You can also run this as a Docker container, which is my favorite way to deploy this in my home lab.
In this example, with the Hacker Dropbox, I’m using a Raspberry Pi 4 running Raspberry Pi OS Lite – 64-bit and installing it directly on the system (no docker container)

What other hardware options do I have?

Again, this can be many things, but here are some ideas to get the juices flowing:

ZImaboard
Raspberry Pi 4/5
Raspberry Pi 400/500
Old laptops
NAS
Intel NUC or other mini-pcs

The Tutorial

Step 1 – Setup Twingate

This setup is VERY easy and is all done in the cloud.

Step 2 – Add your first remote network

You will be prompted to go through a wizard, we can skip that for now.

Click on Remote Networks

And then add a Remote Network

Choose on-premise for location

Once created, we’ll click on the remote network link to jump in and add more config…like adding a connector.

Step 2.5 – Prep your Hacker Dropbox

This will vary based on what device you choose but this will normally involve installing a compatible OS (64-bit Linux OS) and getting access to your device via CLI.
I demo flashing an SD-card for the Raspberry Pi 4 in the video.

Step 3 – Adding a connector for your remote network

The connector, in our case, will be the Hacker Dropbox, a linux-based device running Twingate software, aka, The Connector

Click on Deploy Connector

Good practice, run sudo apt update to make sure all your repos are up-to-date (this will different for you if you are running something that isn’t Debian-based)
For the Raspberry Pi example, we are installing the Twingate connector directly on the OS, no container. So we’ll select Linux as our option.

Now, generate your access tokens. These will automatically be added the command we’ll use to install Twingate here in a moment.

Copy the provided command

Paste that command in your terminal and watch the magic happen.

We are actually….done. Check Twingate to see if your connector is up.

Step 4 – Add a remote WiFi Network (if not using ethernet)

This will be Raspberry Pi specific.
Run this command to access the NetworkManager TUI

sudo nmtui

Edit a connection

Select Add

Select WiFi

Add SSID and Password (you’ll need to know this for the remote network)

Select Ok and then hit ESC to save and get out of there.

Step 5 – Use the Twingate API to learn about the remote network

You only need this option if this is a network you are unfamiliar with. So, for example, you might be offering remote support for your family and you will likely already know their network, 192.168.1.0/24 (for example) and you may have set the static IP address of your Hacker Dropbox and can easily, manually add this as a resource in Twingate.

Generate an API token

Our script will be provisioning resources so we’ll need to give it a good amount of access.

Copy that key and put it somewhere safe.

Run the Python Script

You’ll need another computer, can be anything that can run Python. (which…can be anything, Windows, Mac, Linux.)
You’ll also need Python3 installed, refer to your OS-specific documentation to install Python.

Create the script

Create a new python script

nano twingate.py

paste the following script
Replace the following variables:
- API_URL
- API_KEY
- TARGET_NETWORK_NAME

from gql import gql, Client
from gql.transport.requests import RequestsHTTPTransport

# Twingate API settings
API_URL = "https://****your Twingate network here****.twingate.com/api/graphql/"  # Replace  with your Twingate subdomain
API_KEY = "YOUR TWINGATE API KEY"
TARGET_NETWORK_NAME = "YOUR REMOTE NETWORK"  # Replace with your target network name

QUERY_REMOTE_NETWORKS = gql("""
query GetRemoteNetworkDetails {
  remoteNetworks(after: null, first: 10) {
    edges {
      node {
        id
        name
        connectors {
          edges {
            node {
              id
              name
              publicIP
              privateIPs
              remoteNetwork {
                id
                name
              }
            }
          }
        }
      }
    }
  }
}
""")

MUTATION_CREATE_RESOURCE = gql("""
mutation CreateResource($name: String!, $address: String!, $remoteNetworkId: ID!) {
  resourceCreate(
    name: $name,
    address: $address,
    remoteNetworkId: $remoteNetworkId
  ) {
    ok
    error
    entity {
      id
      name
      address {
        type
        value
      }
    }
  }
}
""")

def setup_client():
    transport = RequestsHTTPTransport(
        url=API_URL,
        headers={"X-API-KEY": API_KEY},
        use_json=True,
    )
    return Client(transport=transport, fetch_schema_from_transport=True)

def get_target_network(client):
    response = client.execute(QUERY_REMOTE_NETWORKS)
    for edge in response["remoteNetworks"]["edges"]:
        network = edge["node"]
        if network["name"] == TARGET_NETWORK_NAME:
            return network
    return None

def create_resource(client, name, address_value, remote_network_id):
    params = {
        "name": name,
        "address": address_value,
        "remoteNetworkId": remote_network_id
    }
    response = client.execute(MUTATION_CREATE_RESOURCE, variable_values=params)
    if not response["resourceCreate"]["ok"]:
        raise Exception(f"Failed to create resource: {response['resourceCreate']['error']}")
    return response["resourceCreate"]["entity"]

def automate_resource_creation():
    client = setup_client()

    print(f"Searching for target network: {TARGET_NETWORK_NAME}...")
    target_network = get_target_network(client)

    if not target_network:
        print(f"Network '{TARGET_NETWORK_NAME}' not found.")
        return

    print(f"Found network: {target_network['name']}")
    remote_network_id = target_network['id']

    for connector_edge in target_network["connectors"]["edges"]:
        connector = connector_edge["node"]
        public_ip = connector.get("publicIP")
        private_ips = connector.get("privateIPs", [])

        if public_ip:
            resource_name = f"Resource-Public-{public_ip.replace('.', '-')}"
            print(f"Creating Resource for public IP: {public_ip}...")
            resource = create_resource(client, resource_name, public_ip, remote_network_id)
            print(f"Resource created: {resource['name']} (ID: {resource['id']}, Address: {resource['address']['value']})")

        for private_ip in private_ips:
            resource_name = f"Resource-Private-{private_ip.replace('.', '-')}"
            print(f"Creating Resource for private IP: {private_ip}...")
            resource = create_resource(client, resource_name, private_ip, remote_network_id)
            print(f"Resource created: {resource['name']} (ID: {resource['id']}, Address: {resource['address']['value']})")

if __name__ == "__main__":
    try:
        automate_resource_creation()
    except Exception as e:
        print(f"Error: {e}")

Save the file.

Now, we’ll create a python virtual environment

This will make sure we can install packages and prerequisites without hurting your other projects. (if you have some….if you don’t…that’s okay….it’s just good practice)
First make sure you have it installed. See below for Linux.

sudo apt install python3-venv -y

Also make sure you install PIP

sudo apt install python3-pip

Now create a Python virtual environment and activate it.

python3 -m venv twingatesomething

source twingatesomething/bin/activate

Install the pre-reqs

pip install gql requests requests.toolbelt

Type to run the script

python3 twingate.py

Check your resources in Twingate…you should see something cool

source

Setting Up A Police Scanner With An RTL-SDR

The Truth News — Mon, 10 Mar 2025 00:15:19 +0000

Setting Up A Police Scanner With An RTL-SDR

The RTL-SDR Blog V4 dongle can be used with SDRTrunk software to listen to trunked police radio and other communications. The RTL-SDR is a wide band radio scanner that can be used for a variety of purposes, including police radio scanning, listening to EMS and fire communications, and more.

https://goodshepherdmedia.net/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/police-scanner.mp4

How it works

The RTL-SDR uses a control channel to listen to a frequency that changes often during a conversation.
The SDRTrunk software can import trunked system network data from a RadioReference subscription.
The SDRTrunk software can also blacklist unwanted talkgroups.
The SDRTrunk software can record and upload trunked radio conversations to a site like openmhz.com.

What you’ll need RTL-SDR Blog V4 dongle, SDRTrunk software, A decent antenna, and A computer with a dual core processor or more.

shopping

you’ll need an RTL-SDR unit. i recommend the dipole antenna kit as well, so you don’t need to make any additional purchases. if you’re a radio enthusiast already, you might have a better antenna available, but if you’re like me you do not and it’s worth the US$10. mine took a bit over a week to arrive. if you’re extremely unlucky, you might need two of them, but i was fine with just one. buy here

basic setup

once your RTL-SDR arrives, you’ll want to put together your antenna. if you’re lucky, like i am, you can just extend the antennas arbitrarily and it’ll work fine; if you’re cursed, the RTL-SDR website has resources on how long is ideal for various frequencies.

connect the antenna to the RTL-SDR unit, plug it in, and follow the RTL-SDR quick start guide. SDRSharp will work, or any of the other Windows options. some of what we’ll need is only available on windows.

once your RTL-SDR’s drivers are sorted out, find the specifications for police radio in your area on RadioReference. click your state, click your county, scroll down and see if there’s a link above a frequency table for you. if you’re lucky, there is, and if you click it there’s a page with a table with System Type and System Voice entries at the top. mine has a system type of EDACS Networked Standard and a system voice of ProVoice and Analog, so the rest of this assumes that’s what you’ve got as well. if not, good luck.

there should be a table for System Frequencies on your RadioReference page. start up SDRSharp and tune your radio to the first frequency listed there. you’ll probably hear a bunch of static and the UI will look something like this:

see how there’s one constant signal and a bunch of other signals that appear and disappear all over the place? well, that’s trunking, and the constant signal is our control channel. if you don’t see it, you can click and drag on the bottom axis of the top panel to change the view. once you’ve found that constant signal, click on it to get the approximate frequency, go back to your frequency table and the closest thing to that will be the exact frequency. it should sound like a series of weird beeps instead of static. remember that frequency, it’ll be important later.

update 2020-07-31: that control channel can change between the frequencies listed on RadioReference. if things randomly quit working, come back to this step, and see if the control channel has moved. i’ll mark down below the places that need changing accordingly.

specific setup

EDACS is a trunked system, so we’re using RTL-SDR’s trunked radio tutorial as our guide, mostly. that guide assumes we have two RTL-SDRs, but there’s a piece at the end explaining how to do it with just one. that sucks. i’m going to paraphrase it here.

first, we’re going to download the software we need: Unitrunker, VB-Cable, and DSD+ (extract both the regular and DLL downloads to the same folder). install unitrunker and VB-Cable and extract dsd+ somewhere convenient. you might need to reboot after installing VB-Cable because computers are bad. VB-Cable might set your default input and output devices to the wrong things when you install it, so switch them back if it does. https://www.unitrunker.com/download.html

or dowmload zippped MSI file from us HERE UniTrunker-2.1.0.108

open up dsd+. it’ll open four different windows, one of them should have a list of audio input and output devices. check the number in the input list that goes with CABLE Output – for me it’s 3. pull up notepad and make a new file. since my input was number 3, i’m typing

DSDPlus.exe -i3M

in that file: if yours is not 3, put whatever the correct number is for you instead of 3. then, save the file, find your DSDPlus folder, make sure the type is set to “All Files”, and name the file run.bat. close dsd+, go to that folder, and open that run.bat file you just created. it should pull up dsd+ and if you’re lucky it’ll print

audio input device #3 (CABLE Output (VB-Audio Virtual ) initialized

or something like that. leave that open.

open up unitrunker. click the + to add a new receiver, and click the RTL2832 button to add your RTL-SDR. set your settings around like this:

the most important things are the RTL Device, the sample rate (2.56 msps), and the VCOs (2 VCOs). i do not know what a VCO is and i do not care enough to find out. we should now have two VCO tabs next to our info tab. the first one needs to look kinda like this:

the important things are the Role being Signal, the Park frequency being the control channel we found earlier (mine is 851.7625), and the Mute box being checked.

update 2020-07-31: if the control channel changes, this Park frequency is one of the two things you’ll need to update.

the second VCO should look kinda like this:

the important things are the Role being Voice, the Deemphasis box being unchecked, and the Digital Output being set to your CABLE Input. this means it will connect up with dsd+ listening to our CABLE Output.

press Play now; it should pull up a window with a Channels tab. the Channels tab should look something like this:

but the Frequency column will all be zeroes except for the control frequency we found earlier. you’ll need to copy over the rest of the frequencies manually from the RadioReference site.

update 2020-07-31: if the control channel changes, you’ll need to uncheck the Control box on the old control channel, and check the Control box on the new control channel.

press the stop button and the play button again, and everything should in theory be working. ideally, the Call History tab will be crowded and updating pretty frequently, and unitrunker will be passing things along to dsd+ which will give us the audio we want. technically, this is enough.

groups

the thing, though, is we don’t have context for any of this. for now, at least. RadioReference should have a table or several of talkgroups – the “list all in one table” button may come in handy – and we can use that information to figure out who we’re hearing, and have at least some control over who takes priority if multiple people in different contexts are talking at once.

find the main unitrunker window – it’s titled “Universal Trunker” and if you don’t have it open just click the home button a bunch until it opens – and then open the Systems tab and double-click the one that exists. open the Groups tab in that window, and it should give you a massive list with columns for ID, Label, and a bunch of stuff we don’t care about right now. the ID matches up with the DEC column in the RadioReference table, and the Label can be either “Description” or “Alpha Tag” or something you make up yourself if you feel creative. if you pay RadioReference $15 for a Premium subscription then unitrunker can import that data automatically.

once you’ve filled that all in, open the Sites tab and double-click the entry you see there, then open the Call History tab. the group labels you added should now be appearing in the Audience column; the LCN and Frequency should turn green for what unitrunker is currently listening to.

back in the Groups tab, you can edit the Priority values to control which groups will be chosen more often – as far as i can tell, higher priority groups will interrupt lower priority groups, and equal priority groups will just play whoever started talking first.

broadcasting

this setup lets you listen to things locally, but what if you want your comrades with no hardware to be able to also listen? the laziest option is to just stream the Call History window on Twitch or something, but in theory there are better options. RadioReference runs Broadcastify, which is designed for hosting police scanner livestreams, but they have to manually approve your broadcast, which is annoying for short term activity. you could run an icecast server yourself or something, but that takes effort to configure. honestly all of those kinda suck but those are your options as far as i know.

update 2020-07-31: you can also let your friendly neighborhood succulent run an icecast server for you; reach out to me if you need something like this. if you’ve got an icecast server, you’ll need to pay for (or otherwise obtain) VB-CABLE A+B, set up VB-CABLE A, and grab butt (broadcast using this tool).

you’ll need to set DSD+ to output to “CABLE-A Input” like how you set it to input from “CABLE Output” – Cable A is the fourth output in DSD+, so my run.bat now looks like this:

DSDPlus.exe -i3M -o4

run butt, pull up the settings, and under the Audio tab set the Input Device to “CABLE-A Output”. (for bonus points, set the Streaming Codec to AAC+.) under the Main tab, Add a new Server and put in whatever info your icecast server admin told you to use. now restart your DSD+ and hit butt’s play button to start streaming, and you should be running a livestream of your police scanner that is accessible over the internet. source

Understanding, Listening and Recording Trunked Radio Systems with an RTL-SDR and Trunk-Recorder

rtl-sdr.com

RTL-SDR (RTL2832U) and software defined radio news and projects. Also featuring Airspy, HackRF, FCD, SDRplay and more.

Trunked radio systems for voice communications can be easily found when browsing the spectrum with an SDR. Listening to a voice communication is easy, but actually following a conversation along is almost impossible to do manually. This is because in a trunking system the frequency in use during a conversation can change often. The frequency of the voice is dictated by a control channel that all radios listen to. This allows multiple talk groups (Police, EMS, business etc) to share one chunk of the spectrum without having to allocate fixed channels for each user.

Over on his blog Andrew Nohawk has uploaded an excellent guide that explains trunked radio, how it works, how to use radioreference to look up trunked radio frequencies in your area, and how to use an RTL-SDR to listen in. He then shows how to use a program called “trunk-recorder” which will automatically record and upload trunked radio conversations to a site like openmhz.com for sharing. source

Hacker Tool Kit & Pen Tester Kit HackerBox 0073 LAN Lord

The Truth News — Thu, 07 Nov 2024 07:29:02 +0000

Hacker Tool Kit & Pen Tester Kit HackerBox 0073 LAN Lord

Welcome to HackerBox 0073. We will explore Wi-Fi channels and frequencies, configure the ESP8266 D1 Mini SoC, assemble the Open Source Wi-Fi Nugget, leverage the Wi-Fi Nugget as a communications security and hacking tool, introduce the Rtlduino dual-frequency wireless SoC, assemble a full-color TFT display platform for the Rtlduino, and leverage the platform to implement a Wi-Fi channel mapping tool capable of operating on both 2.4GHz and 5GHz wireless bands.

HackerBoxes is the monthly subscription box for enthusiasts of electronics and computer technology – Hardware Hackers – The Dreamers of Dreams.

There is a wealth of information for current and prospective members in the HackerBoxes FAQ. Almost all of the non-technical support emails that we receive are already answered there, so we’d really appreciate it if you can take a few minutes to read the FAQ.

Supplies

This Instructable contains information for getting started with HackerBox 0073. The full box contents are listed on the product page for HackerBox 0073 where the box is also available for purchase while supplies last. If you would like to automatically receive a HackerBox like this right in your mailbox each month with a $15 discount, you can subscribe at HackerBoxes.com and join the revolution!

A soldering iron, solder, and basic soldering tools are generally needed to work on the monthly HackerBox. A computer for running software tools is also required. Have a look at the HackerBox Core Workshop for a set of basic tools and a wide array of introductory activities and experiments.

Most importantly, you will need a sense of adventure, hacker spirit, patience, and curiosity. Building and experimenting with electronics, while very rewarding, can be tricky, challenging, and even frustrating at times. The goal is progress, not perfection. When you persist and enjoy the adventure, a great deal of satisfaction can be derived from this hobby. Take each step slowly, mind the details, and don’t be afraid to ask for help.

Step 1: Wi-Fi Frequencies and Channels

The 802.11 standard provides several distinct radio frequency ranges for use in Wi-Fi communications. These range from 1000 MHz to 60 GHz bands. Currently, the most commonly used frequency bands are 2.4GHz and 5GHz.

Each range is divided into multiple channels numbered at 5 MHz spacing. Although channels are numbered at 5 MHz spacing, transmitters generally occupy at least 20 MHz, and standards allow for channels to be bonded together to form wider channels for higher throughput.

Each Wi-Fi channel is a small segment of a frequency through which wireless networks can send and receive data. The 2.4Ghz band is made up of 14 channels, 3 of which are non-overlapping channels. In the illustration the non-overlapping channels are shown with solid lines while the others are dotted. The 5Ghz band has 23 channels, 8 of which are defined for indoor routers and access points.

The 2.4GHz band provides a wide coverage area and is better at penetrating solid objects. It has a maximum data speed of 150Mbps. Unfortunately, 2.4GHz frequencies can suffer more interference and disturbance.

The 5 GHz frequencies support higher data speeds with reduced interference, put provide narrower coverage area and are less capable of penetrating solid objects.

Step 2: ESP8266 D1 Mini

The D1 Mini Module is based on the ESP8266 SOC. The ESP8266 SOC includes a microcontroller core, Wi-Fi circuitry, and an integrated TCP/IP protocol stack. The ESP8266 is capable of running code directly on its MCU core, or the ESP8266 can act as a communication peripheral to provide WiFi functionality to another microcontroller.

ESP8266 with the Arduino IDE

The D1 Mini Module can be programmed through the Arduino IDE. To set up the ESP8266 support within the Arduino IDE, follow Steps 1-5 of this tutorial.

In the IDE, select Tools > Board > ESP8266 Boards > LOLIN WEMOS D1 R2 & mini

Under Tools > Port select the COM port that appears when the D1 Mini is plugged in

Blink an LED

Open and upload the sketch: File > Example > ESP8266 > Blink

Once uploaded, the Blink sketch will flash the blue LED on the D1 Mini

You can experiment with changing both delay calls in the blink sketch to 2000, run the code, and then change them both to 200 and run the code again. Verify that the LED flashes ten times faster with the 200ms delays compared to the 2000ms delays.

Scan Wi-Fi Networks

The best thing about the ESP8266 is Wi-Fi support, so let’s try it out. Grab the NetScan8266.ino sketch attached here. Program it into the D1 Mini.

Open Tools > Serial Monitor and set the baud rate to 9600.

The ESP8266 will scan for all 2.4GHz networks and then list out the SSID and RSSI of each one to the serial monitor.

NetScan8266.ino
Download

Step 3: Assemble the Wi-Fi Nugget

The Wi-Fi Nugget is a cool hacking platform based on the D1 Mini module with an added OLED display, four push buttons, and an RGB WS2812B LED.

The Open Source Hardware Wi-Fi Nugget was designed by skickar and alexlynd. MOAR Nuggets can be purchased from Retia.

Assembly Notes:

Start with the four pushbuttons. They are not polarized and can be oriented in either direction.

Next set the LED. It must be correctly oriented, so find the little white triangle on one corner of he LED itself and the corner marking on the PCB silk screen. Turn the LED so that these line up.

Next solder on the ESP8266 D1 Mini using the header pins. After soldering, trim the pins close the Nugget PCB

ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN CUTTING PINS

The last item to solder is the 1.3 inch OLED Display. Prior to soldering the OLED, it is a good idea to put some electrical tape (or carboard or plastic or whatever) between the display and the D1 mini pins that protrude underneath. This can help prevent things from shorting out and also makes the finished product feel nice and solid.

Shall We Play A Game?

This one has nothing to do with LANs, but games are always fun.

Give the attached arkanug.ino a shot.

Note that arkanug requires first setting up the library ssd1306 (by Alexey Dynda) through the Arduino IDE library manager.

arkanug.ino
Download

Step 4: Wi-Fi Nugget Projects

This video demonstrates the power and versatility of the little ESP8266 SoC as a security tool.

Wi-Fi Nugget Packet Monitor code

Wi-Fi Nugget Quick Start video

Find additional videos and projects on HAK5 YouTube Channel

Search for “WiFi Nugget” on YouTube

Step 5: Rtlduino RTL8720DN Dual-Band IoT Module

The Rtlduino development board includes the BW16 dual-band Wi-Fi+Bluetooth SoC module. The BW16 is based on the RTL8720DN chip from Realtek (datasheet). The RTL8720 supports dual band (2.4GHz and 5GHz) Wireless LAN (Wi-Fi) and Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE 5.0). The RTL8720 incorporates two processing cores:

The first core is a high-performance MCU called the KM4. This high-performance core is ARM Cortex-M33 instruction set compatible (Armv8-M). The KM4 MCU is a 32-bit core supporting enhanced debug features, floating point computation, DSP instructions and incorporates a 3-stage pipeline.

The second core is a low power MCU called the KM0. This low-power core is ARM Cortex-M23 instruction set compatible (Armv8-M). The KM0 MCU is an energy-efficient “coprocessor” operating on a simple instruction set and reduced code size while remaining code-compatible and tool-compatible with the high-performance KM4 core.

Features:

Dual Band Wi-Fi: 2.4GHz and 5GHz
802.11a/b/g/n
Supports HT20/HT40 mode
Low-power modes: beacon monitoring, receiver, suspend
Built-in AES/DES/SHA hardware engine
TrustZone-M and Secure Boot
SWD debug protection and prohibit mode
BLE and BT5.0 Bluetooth
High-Power Bluetooth Amplifier (7dBm)
Shared Wi-Fi and BT Antenna
Wi-Fi Modes: STA/AP/STA+AP

Reference: BW16 Documentation (Ai-Thinker)

MAKING FIRST CONTACT:

We suggest making first contact with, and reprogramming, the Rtlduino module prior to soldering the module or connecting anything to its pins. Simply connect the microUSB port on the Rtlduino to your PC and launch a serial terminal program such as the Arduino IDE Serial Monitor or PuTTY. Set the baud rate of the terminal to 38,400.

The terminal should display “AT COMMAND READY” and a # prompt from the Rtlduino. You can type “AT” through the terminal and receive an “OK” in response.

This AT command interface (reminiscent of Hayes modems and initial ESP8266 offerings) is provided by the firmware loaded into the Rtlduino at the factory. You can remove this firmware and run your own programs.

Step 6: Rtlduino – Removing the Factory Firmware

There are three different methods suggested on this forum for clearing the factory firmware on the Rtlduino. We have had success with Method 1 which performs an over the air (OTA) flash using your Wi-Fi network. The process is a little convoluted, so we’ve attempted to restate it below:

STEP 1. Download the AmebaD SDK

The SDK can be found at the ambiot GitHub.

STEP 2. Connect the Rtlduino to your Wi-Fi Network

This is done through the Rtlduino AP command interface

From the serial terminal, enter the AT Command: ATPN=SSID,password

Wait for the response: #ATPN OK

Note that the Wi-Fi network used needs to be the same one that your PC is on

STEP 3. Generate the OTA.bin File

Among the SDK files downloaded above, navigate to the folder “tools\AmbaD\Image_Tool”

Run image_tool.exe

Click the “Generate” tab

In the “Generate Target” dropdown, select OTA_All

Check the box next to “Bin 3”

On that same line, hit browse and navigate to that same “Image_Tool” folder

From that folder, select “imgtool_flashloader_amebad.bin”

Hit “Generate”

To save the output file, navigate to “tools\DownloadServer” among the same SDK files

Save the file into that folder as “ota.bin”

STEP 4. Find the IP Address of your PC
Open a Windows Command Prompt

Run “ipconfig”

Make a note of the full address shown as “IPv4 Address”

STEP 5. Launch the OTA Download Server

From the Windows Command Prompt, change the directory to:
“\tools\DownloadServer” (where you saved ota.bin)

Run start.bat

The tool will display “Listening on Port (NNNN) … Waiting for client…”

Make a note of that port number.

STEP 6. Connect the OTA Client (the Rtlduino)

Go back to the serial terminal window

Enter the AT Command:

ATSO=IP_address,port_number

The response should show: ”Erase is ongoing…” and then eventually complete.

STEP 7. Check the Rtlduino Firmware Image

Press the reset button (RST) on the Rtlduino to check the serial output has updated

Step 7: Rtlduino – Configure and Test Arduino Tools

First we need to link together two serial ports of the Rtlduino. These are the Main Serial UART and the Log UART. We can link these two ports using two female-female jumpers on the pins shown in the image. The Serial_RX pin is connected to the Log_RX pin. The Serial_TX pin is connected to the Log_TX pin.

Next, install the Arduino IDE (this is probably already done)

Visit the GitHub repo for the Ameba Arduino SDK

Follow the instructions there for adding the additional board manager URL into the IDE

Follow the instructions to install the board manager for “Realtek Ameba Boards”

In the IDE, Select Tools > Board > AmebaD ARM Boards > RTL8720DN(BW16)

Select the appropriate COM port

Open File > Examples > Basics > Blink

Hit the upload icon (arrow button)

After compiling the code, the IDE will show “Please enter the upload mode (wait 5s)”

Press and hold both buttons on the Rtlduino, release the RST button, wait a second, release the Burn button

Hit the RST button again to reset the board and run the newly flashed blink sketch

Repeat the process whenever uploading a sketch to the Rtlduino

The Rtlduino actually has three different on-board LEDs. The define LED_BUILTIN in the blink sketch defaults to LED_G (green). Try replacing all three instances of LED_BUILTIN in the blink sketch with LED_R or LED_B.

Step 8: Rtlduino – TFT Display Interface PCB

Assembly

1) Apply two solder blobs to short across the serial port pads linking RX to RX and TX to TX. These connections replace the jumper wires used in the previous step.

2) Insert the four pin header into the PCB. Position the header with the black plastic and the long pins on the TFT side of the PCB and the short pins protruding through to the side of the PCB with the HackerBox logo. Solder the four header pins.

3) Insert the Rtlduino module onto the side of the PCB with the HackerBox logo. Solder the Rtlduino header pins.

4) Insert the TFT display module on the other side of the PCB. Position the TFT module so that it is floating a bit away from the black PCB by imagining that the yellow and black plastic header insulators are 1.5-2 times thicker than they are. Keep the red PCB and the black PCB parallel while soldering the first few pins. Solder the entire long TFT header to the black PCB and then solder the four pin header to the TFT module.

Install a Library for the TFT Display

Using the IDE Library Manager, install the library “Adafruit ILI9341”

Test the TFT Display with Fractals

Open the sketch File > Examples > Adafruit ILI9341 > mandelbrot

About 18 lines down under the comment “//use SPI” find the #define for TFT_DC

change #define TFT_DC from 10 to 8

Step 9: Rtlduino TFT – PCB Specs

The extra jumpers points on the PCB can be shorted to connect the SD card socket

The blue numbers in the image indicate the definitions of the Rtlduino pins within the Arduino environment

Arduino pins 6 and 7 are not needed by the TFT display and may be used for other I/O connections. Arduino pin 7 connects to the jumper pad labeled PA25 on the black PCB. Arduino pin 6 connects to the circular test pad labeled PB3 on the black PCB.

Step 10: Rtlduino – Dual Frequency Wi-Fi Mapping

Grab the attached DualWiFiMapper.ino sketch and burn it to the Rtlduino.

Feel the power of dual frequency Wi-Fi support?

We can now work with both 2.4GHz and 5GHz wireless channels.

DualWiFiMapper.ino
Download

Step 11: Wardriving

Wardriving is the act of searching for Wi-Fi wireless networks, usually from a moving vehicle, using a laptop or smartphone (or an SoC). Software for wardriving is freely available on the internet.

The term Wardriving is derived from the original wardialing. Wardialing is a method popularized by the film WarGames and is, in fact, named after the film. Wardialing consists of dialing every phone number in a specific sequence in search of modems.

Wardrivers often use a Wi-Fi-equipped device together with a GPS device to record the location of wireless networks. The results can then be uploaded to websites like WiGLE, openBmap or Geomena where the data is processed to form maps of the network neighborhood. There are also clients available for smartphones running Android that can upload data directly. For better range and sensitivity, antennas are built or bought, and vary from omnidirectional to highly directional. source

GhostESP- The ESP32-C6

The Truth News — Thu, 31 Oct 2024 07:20:19 +0000

WiFi “Ghost Frame”, What Is It?

A WiFi Ghost frame is a term widely used in the WiFi community lately. It is not a part of the 802.11 standard, it is just a term many uses.

Some say it is a frame the receiver don’t hear, other say the receiver don’t understand. Both are wrong.

So what is it?. I will try to explain.

Contraints
I am only talking about frames in the 5GHz band and non-HT, HT and VHT frame formats. HE frame formats is not considered.
I assume the reader knows something about 802.11. I don’t explain the basic stuff.
The wireless frame in this article is sent by the AP.

Background
An 802.11 frame consists mainly of two parts. The Preamble (also called the Physical header), and the Data field, like this

Figure 1: General Frame Format

The Preamble is always sent with BPSK modulation and 1/2 coding. It has different contents depended whether the Data field is non-HT, HT or VHT frame, but the modulation and coding are always BPSK 1/2. The Data field is sent with a modulation and coding scheme decided by the transmitter. The modulation scheme can be BPSK, QPSK, 16-QAM, 64-QAM, or 256-QAM. And there are different coding schemes. BPSK 1/2 is a more robust modulation and coding scheme than the others and will therefore have a “longer” range.
This can be shown in a figure like this:

Figure 2: Edge for chosen mcs/data rate and BPSK 1/2 frames

Communication between the AP and STA1 will be done with an appropriate mcs-index/data rate. STA2 will in the case hear/receive the full-frame from the AP, but it will only successfully demodulate the preamble unless the frame is a 6mbs (BPSK 1/2) frame. The data field in the frame from the AP will not be successfully demodulated by STA2 and it will not be able to extract the information in it.

A scenario with minimum basic rate set to 12mbs
So let us make a scenario where the minimum basic rate in the BSS is set to 12mbs (QPSK 1/2). This means many of the frames in the BSS is sent at 12mbs, frames like Beacon and the other management frames, and most of the control frames. Data frames are usually sent with higher rates. According to the standard, a station needs an RSSI of -79dBm to be able to receive and successfully demodulate a 12mbs frame (QPSK 1/2), while it needs -82dBm for 6mbs (BPSK 1/2). And if we have a designed network with cell edges at -67dBm, it will look like this:

Figure 3: a 12mbs versus 6mbs scenario

In this figure I have used these parameters:
– free space path loss (FSPL)
– a 6dB degradation of RSSI for each doubling of the distance
– cell size for the APs coverage area till -67dBm (often called the “want” area)

In figure 3 we have STA1 inside our designed coverage cell, STA2 is inside the edge for successfully demodulating of the 12mbs frames and STA3 is in an area where it will successfully demodulate the preamble from the AP, but not the data field of the frame.

So what happens at STA3
Let us consider a frame sent from the AP at 12mbs and see what happens at STA3.
First STA3 will receive the preamble with BPSK 1/2 and later the data field with QPSK 1/2.
STA3 knows, based on the standard, that the preamble is modulated with BPSK 1/2. Since this is an 12mbs frame it is also a 802.11a frame. The Signal field in the preamble will therefore tell about the data rate for the data field (12 mbs or QPSK 1/2).
If it was a mcs frame, the preamble would have an additional field (HT/VHT preamble) which informs of the data rate for the data field

Demodulation of this frame
If we look at the constellation mapper for BPSK and QPSK from the 802.11 standards it looks like this:

Figure 4: BPSK and QPSK Constellation Map

During demodulation, the receiver does a Fast Fourier Transform. The FFT basically interpret the amplitude and phase of each subcarrier and the output is a complex number with this format:

d=(I+jQ) x Kmod. We will not consider the Kmod now and assume it is 1

For the preamble, the receiver knows it is BPSK and the Q value in the formula is not considered. As long it predicts each subcarrier has a phase either in the first or the fourth quadrant it gives a result d=1 and it is a bit value of “1”. If the phase for each subcarrier is in the second or the third quadrant it will give a result of d=-1 and a bit value of “0”. Like this:

Figure 5: Reception of BPSK

Keith Parsons have a great video on modulation,

Since STA3 barely is able to demodulate the preamble correctly we can assume the result of the FFT for all subcarriers will be all over the first and fourth quadrant (red rectangle) for “1”, and likewise for “0” in the second and third quadrant (blue rectangle).

Next, during the reception of the data field, the energy in the signal is still the same, but this time each subcarrier FFT phase result must hit inside a single quadrant to give its correct bit value. For example, a hit in the first quadrant (d=1+j) will give a bit value of “11”.
But the quality of the received signal is the same as for the preamble. Since we assumed the result from the FFT will hit all around in the first and fourth quadrant for a “1” for BPSK, the result will for a phase value that should have given a bit value of “11” be like this:

Figure 6: Reception of QPSK

This will happen for every subcarrier in a symbol. For some subcarriers, the FFT will predict the correct value of d=1+j (11). But for other subcarriers, the FFT will predict either d=-1+j (01) or d=1-j (10). The FEC (forward error correction) build into the decoder will be able to correct some of the bit values, but not all.
The reception can fail here if the receiver is not able to extract the Service field of the data field correctly.
If the receiver sends the demodulated bit values up to the MAC layer, the bit pattern is processed there. One of the things that happen in the MAC layer is to find the Type and Subtype field in the 802.11 MAC header to decide what type of frame it is, and at last the full data field will be checked with a CRC control. But since there is a lot of bit faults in the bitstream, it will fail somewhere.

Probably, the reception will fail in the de-modulator, at layer 1. But if the bit pattern is been sent to the MAC layer it will fail there, at layer 2.

To summarize this for STA3:

The preamble (BPSK 1/2) will be successfully received, demodulated and, understood in the receiver, at layer 1
The data field (QPSK 1/2) is received with the same power level at the receiver, at layer 1. But because the demodulation process output will have so many fault bit values it will probably fail at layer 1
If the bit pattern is sent up till the MAC layer, at layer 2, it will fail there
So, the full-frame is heard and received, at least at layer 1. But it will fail and will not be interpreted at layer 2 or higher.
STA3 will therefore do at least two thing
- Understand the preamble with the Signal field and can calculate the duration of this frame
- It will not be able to receive the NAV-timer from the MAC header, but it will sense/hear 802.11 modulated signal patterns during the full duration of the frame. If it not going into sleep mode for this duration of time

What are the consequences?
First of all, this does not happen inside of the -67dBm cell coverage of our AP. It is either in another BSS or if we, in our network have two BSSs on the same channel at some distance away from each other

If STA3 is a non-AP STA (client) it will have to stay quiet during the duration of the frame
If STA3 is an AP it will have to stay quiet during the duration of the frame, and it could report at airtime utilization value based on the duration.
If STA3 is a spectrum analyzer it could visualize the energy received
If STA3 is a capturing device it would not show anything

How to mitigate this behavior?
If we let 6mbs be the minimum basic rate, both the preamble and the data field for, at least the control and management frames, will be using BPSK 1/2 modulation and coding scheme, and the Beacons/BSS will be visible in a Wlan scanner tool. And all the 6mbs frames could be captured for protocol analyses.
The BSS Coloring feature in 802.11ax would be perfect to use to mitigate this challenge. But that could be described in another article. source

The closing
I hope this is useful.
I have learned a lot.
Please, give feedback if you want

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Block Internet ads at home with Pi-hole

The Truth News — Fri, 04 Oct 2024 08:17:10 +0000

Enhance Your Network with Pi-hole: Ad Blocking and Privacy Solutions

Internet advertisements have become very obtrusive and more apparent over the last several years. Users conducting research from various sources on the web are often met with a vexatious experience full of distractions. Children watching YouTube videos that have inappropriate advertisement content embedded in the videos are also becoming a concern for many parents. Normally users will install ad-blocking software and extensions on their operating systems and web browsers. Most of the software installed for ad-blocking purposes ends up not being updated and extensions for web browsers often stop working when the web browser itself has been updated.

A more efficient solution is now available thanks to single board computing. The Raspberry Pi being the most readily available single board computer. For a mere $16 anyone can have a multi-platform, network-wide ad blocker on their local network. This software plays very nice in both office and home networks. Pi-hole offers a wonderful dashboard with real time analytics if you’re someone who loves numbers.

Below is an example of a Raspberry Pi, with Pi-hole installed showing real time stats via an LCD installed on the Raspberry Pi:

So what is needed to get this project going?

Raspberry Pi Kit – $16
Ethernet Cable (Optional) – $6
Screen for Raspberry Pi (Optional) -$20

After you have purchased these components it’s very simple to install Pi-hole.

You can install an Operating System image on your Raspberry Pi. Step-by-step directions are provided and the entire process takes less than 10 minutes to complete.

Installing Pi-hole:

Install Pi-hole on the Raspberry Pi. The program can be downloaded here or via the install “curl -sSL https://install.pi-hole.net | bash|”” command.
Configure your router DHCP settings to force clients in using your PI-hole as their DNS server. You can also manually configure each device but that takes much more time than blocking ads on the whole network at once. This step sounds more difficult than it actually is. The only thing that you have to change are some ports and DNS settings on your router. Most routers have this setting displaying on the main page and it can be changed within a matter of a few seconds. A straightforward guide is provided on Pi-Holes official site.
Completion! Your Pi-hole blocks all advertisements at a DNS level. This means your whole network is protected and any device connected will automatically block online commercials even inside Apps and programs. You have freed your laptop, iPhone, Nexus tablet and desktop PC from all online commercials! Enjoy faster loading times on all your favorite websites and apps.

If you’d like to pull up Pi-holes nifty dashboard and see how many advertisements were blocked from your entire network you’ll see a clean interface exactly like the one below :

Fun Facts About Pi-hole :

– The code is completely open, and you are able to modify it in any way you’d like. (Yay for open-source!)
– Pi-hole is very lightweight as it only handles DNS queries and returns a blank HTML file so it doesn’t need much processing power. (Yay for efficiency!)
– Pi-hole will run on most Debian-based distros and is the preferred platform for it.(Yay for compatibility!) source

Block Internet ads at home with Pi-hole

LETS DIVE DEEPER….

Internet advertising can often be a nuisance. It takes up valuable bandwidth. It weighs your browser down with trackers. It reports your data back to untrustworthy third parties.

On some devices, like laptops and phones, you can use ad blockers to protect yourself (and your sanity). But on many smart devices, like TVs, refrigerators, toasters, and toilets, you can’t install an ad blocker.

Pi-hole simplifies ad blocking by operating at the network level, instead of on individual devices. That way, you aren’t restricted by which devices can install an ad-blocker; instead, you can protect devices on your network from ever accessing ads in the first place.

How does Pi-hole work?

Pi-hole blocks ads by acting as a DNS sinkhole.

To understand what a DNS sinkhole is, you need to understand what DNS is. Here are a few key terms:

IP address: unique numeric address of a web resource (e.g. 104.22.23.160)

DNS: Domain Name System, associates domain names with IP addresses

DNS server: a server that translates domain names into IP addresses

Domain Name: unique alphanumeric address of a web resource (e.g. raspberrypi.com)

When you type www.raspberrypi.com into your browser, your computer asks a DNS server where to find that domain. The DNS server responds with an IP address (e.g. 104.22.23.160). Then your computer queries that IP address for the resource you’re looking for.We use domain names because IP addresses aren’t very human-readable; it’s a lot easier to read and write “raspberrypi.com” than four bytes’ worth of numbers.Usually, your computer queries a DNS server hosted somewhere on the internet. It might be hosted by your internet provider, a website hosting company, or any company that runs a lot of servers. Your machine submits a domain, and the DNS server returns the IP address corresponding to that domain. The DNS server doesn’t care if the domain provides something you want (like the article you’re trying to read) or an ad. It just resolves domains into IP addresses.

Here’s where Pi-hole comes in. Pi-hole stands between your network and a DNS server. Consider a client device, like your smart toilet, performing a DNS lookup for a domain. The Pi-hole in your network acts like a DNS server; DNS lookups from all client devices, whether that’s your smart toilet or your phone, go to the Pi-hole.

But Pi-hole doesn’t store a perfect up-to-date mapping of all domain names to all IP addresses. Instead, Pi-hole queries a real DNS server outside of your network. However, before it queries that real DNS server, Pi-hole checks a blocklist. If the domain passes this filter, Pi-hole requests the IP address from the DNS server, and returns it to the client device on your network. If the domain doesn’t pass the filter — if it’s included on the blocklist — Pi-hole returns a non-routable address such as 0.0.0.0.

The following diagram shows a lookup via a Pi-hole for the unblocked domain raspberrypi.com:

The following diagram shows a lookup via a Pi-hole for the blocked domain raspberryads.com:

TL;DR: Pi-hole blocks requests made to ad domains from your network, before the requests ever leave your network. Your client devices can’t connect to domains that host ads, but can connect to domains that host useful content.

Overview

To install a Pi-hole in your network, you’ll need to do the following things:

Configure a Raspberry Pi running Raspberry Pi OS.
Set up Pi-hole software on your Raspberry Pi.
Direct DNS queries on your network to your Raspberry Pi.

Supplies

Raspberry Pi
suitable power supply (see the documentation for details)
microSD card (see the documentation for details)
adapter to connect your microSD card with your usual computer
USB cable (check your 3D printer for details)

For the initial SD card setup, you will need:

Another computer connected to your network. We’ll refer to this as your usual computer to distinguish it from the Raspberry Pi computer you are setting up.

Choose a Raspberry Pi

You can use any Raspberry Pi model for this. We recommend Zero 2 W if you can’t decide which model to use.

Configure your Raspberry Pi

To begin, follow the Getting Started documentation to set up your Raspberry Pi. For your operating system, choose Raspberry Pi OS Lite (32-bit) to run headless (without a mouse and keyboard).

During the OS customisation stage, edit settings as follows:

Enter a hostname of your choice (we suggest pi-hole for this tutorial)
Enter a username and password; you’ll need these later to authenticate
Check the box next to Configure wireless LAN so your Pi can automatically connect to Wi-Fi
Enter your network SSID (name) and password; you can find these in your Wi-Fi settings or on a sticker on your router
Check the box next to Enable SSH so we can connect to the Pi without a mouse and keyboard

Connect via SSH

Open a terminal on your computer. If you use a Windows computer, you may need to install a terminal; we suggest PuTTY. Enter the following command to connect to your Raspberry Pi, replacing the placeholder with your own username that you chose in Imager:

$ ssh <username>@pi-hole.local

If ssh asks you if you’re sure you want to continue connecting, reply yes. Enter the password you chose during advanced configuration when prompted.

You’ll know you’ve connected successfully when you see the following prompt with your configured username and hostname:

@:~ $

Now that you’ve connected to your Raspberry Pi, run two commands to make sure that all of your packages are up to date:

$ sudo apt update
$ sudo apt full-upgrade

Once the package update commands finish running, reboot your Raspberry Pi to allow all changes to take effect:

$ sudo reboot

Running this command will disconnect you from the Raspberry Pi SSH session. Wait a few seconds for your Raspberry Pi to reboot, and enter the ssh connection command again to reconnect to your device.

tip

On most terminals, press the Up arrow key, then the Enter key to re-run the most recent command.

Install Pi-hole

Run the following single-line command to run the Pi-hole setup script:

$ curl -sSL https://install.pi-hole.net | bash

The setup script is relatively self-explanatory, but follow these tips if you aren’t sure how to proceed:

When warned about needing a static IP address, click Continue to proceed; we’ll deal with this later
When prompted to select an interface, select wlan0 to use your Raspberry Pi’s Wi-Fi connection
When prompted to choose an upstream DNS provider, choose OpenDNS
Include StevenBlack’s Unified Hosts List
Install the Admin Web Interface
Install lighttpd and the required PHP modules to run the Admin Web Interface
Enable query logging
When prompted to choose a privacy level, choose Anonymous mode

When you see “Installation complete!”, the setup is complete. This screen shows the IP address of your Pi-hole, a link to the admin interface, and your administrator password.

Save this password somewhere safe, like a password manager — you’ll need it to work with your Pi-hole in the future
Save the IP address — you’ll need it to configure a static IP address shortly

Pi-hole only provides a single administrator account, so there’s no username. Press the Control key (Command on macOS) and click the link to the admin interface that uses an IP address. It’ll look something like http://192.168.1.24/admin. Don’t use the pi.hole domain link yet; until we configure the Pi-hole as our DNS provider, it won’t work. The link should open in your browser. You can also copy and paste the link into a browser if control + click doesn’t work in your terminal. Use the admin password from the setup script output to authenticate. You can now see your Pi-hole admin console! We recommend bookmarking this console for future maintenance.

Configure your network to use your Pi-hole

warning

The tasks below require you to change global settings in your wireless network. You might break your internet connection (for a little while). Proceed with caution!

To complete these tasks, visit the admin interface for your router. You can usually access the admin interface through your router’s IP address. Here are a couple of common ways to find that interface:

Run the following command on your Raspberry Pi to output your router’s IP address:
```
$ nmcli -f IP4.GATEWAY device show wlan0
```
Check for a sticker on your router — look for a value called “admin URL” or similar

Once you’ve found the IP address, log in to your router’s admin interface by typing the address (sometimes with the suffix /admin) into your browser. Enter your username and password (if you don’t know these, you may be able to find them on a sticker on your router). Now that you’ve got your Pi-hole configured, you have three choices to use it to block ads. All of them involve getting Pi-hole between your network and the internet:

configure Pi-hole as the DNS server for your network
configure Pi-hole as the DHCP provider for your network
manually point devices at Pi-hole for DNS

It’s easiest to use your Pi-hole as a DNS server. However, some routers don’t provide a setting to control the default DNS server. If you can’t set a DNS server, try configuring Pi-hole as your DHCP provider. And if you can’t do that either, you can always manually point devices at the Pi-hole for DNS — it’s not as good as full-network ad blocking, but it’s a lot better than nothing.

Configure Pi-hole as your network’s DNS server

This is the most common way of configuring a Pi-hole. For this method, you’ll first assign your Raspberry Pi a static IP address from your router’s interface, then point your router’s DNS server settings to the Pi-hole’s static IP address. With this setup, your router controls IP reservations across your network, but devices on the network send DNS queries to your Pi-hole instead of to a DNS server on the internet.

Assign your Raspberry Pi a static IP address

IP addresses are unique numeric codes that allow you to directly interact with devices on your network. For instance, many routers automatically assign themselves the first address in the IP block they are using, such as 192.168.1.1. Most networks use Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol (DHCP) to assign IP addresses to devices automatically. These IP addresses are known as dynamic IP addresses, because they can change at any time.

To run a Pi-hole on your network, we recommend assigning your Pi-hole a static IP address. A static IP address never changes. This allows devices on your network always to find the Pi-hole at the same address.

To start, run the following command on your Raspberry Pi:

$ hostname -I

You should see output similar to the following:

$ 192.168.1.24

This value is the current (dynamic) IP address of your Raspberry Pi on the network.

To assign a static IP address, you also need the MAC address of your Raspberry Pi. A device’s MAC address is a hardware identifier that your router uses to uniquely identify it. Run the following command to find the MAC address of your Raspberry Pi:

$ nmcli -f GENERAL.HWADDR device show wlan0

You should see output similar to the following:

GENERAL.HWADDR:                         A8:42:EA:58:E0:1C

The value on the right is the MAC address of your Raspberry Pi. Now that we know your Raspberry Pi’s MAC address and IP address, we can configure your router so it always associates the Raspberry Pi’s MAC address with its current IP address. Effectively, we’re turning the current dynamic address into a static one using the MAC address. In your router’s admin interface, configure a static IP address for your Raspberry Pi. There are several ways to accomplish this, depending on your router:

You might be able to find this setting in the “Advanced” section of the router admin interface. Look for a list called “DHCP Reservations”, and enter your Raspberry Pi’s IP address and MAC address.
Look for a list of connected devices and find your Raspberry Pi’s IP address or MAC address. Select the option to “Always use this IP address” to make the IP address reservation static.
Check the documentation for your router model for specific instructions.

Set Pi-hole as your network’s default DNS server

Once you’ve assigned your Raspberry Pi a static IP address, you can configure individual devices to use Pi-hole as a DNS server in their network settings. But this process is tedious, and some devices don’t provide an easily accessible DNS server setting. However, there is an easier way: most routers automatically suggest a DNS server for devices connected to your network. All you have to do is change the suggested server in your router’s settings, and your entire network should start using your Pi-hole for DNS.

Look for a setting called DNS in your router’s admin interface. You may be able to find the setting in a section called “Internet”, “DHCP”, “Internet Connection”, or “DDNS”.

Enter your Pi-hole’s IP address in the DNS (or similarly named) field.

If your router provides multiple custom DNS fields, add your Pi-hole address in each field.

important

Whatever you do, don’t add any separate DNS entries after the Pi-hole entries — this can break Pi-hole’s ad blocking functionality. When your Pi-hole blocks a domain, it returns a non-routable address such as 0.0.0.0, and some devices will query the secondary DNS server when the first server returns such a non-routable address. If your secondary DNS server isn’t a Pi-hole, every single request blocked by Pi-hole will succeed on the secondary server, and ads will load as if you weren’t running an ad blocker at all.

Configure Pi-hole as your network’s DHCP provider

If your router doesn’t support configuration for static IP addresses or DNS servers, you may still be able to use your Pi-hole automatically across your network. First, check whether you can change the network DHCP server in your router settings. If you can, you can use your Pi-hole both as a DNS server and as the DHCP server that handles IP address reservations across your network.

First, navigate to the Pi-hole admin console. If you type your Raspberry Pi’s IP address into your browser, it should redirect you there.

In the left side menu, select the “Settings” page.

In the DHCP tab, in the “DHCP Settings” block, check the “DHCP server enabled” box.

Pi-hole should pre-populate the IP address range with the IP block that your router currently uses, and the router IP address with the router’s current IP address. You can leave these values as they are. Click the Save button in the bottom left to start hosting a DHCP server from Pi-hole.

Finally, visit your router’s admin interface, and set your Pi-hole’s IP address as the DHCP provider for your network. When your Pi-hole is functioning as the DHCP provider, your router delegates all IP-related tasks to it. This includes DNS server configuration, so your Pi-hole can suggest itself as the default DNS server for all devices on your network. Check the documentation for your router model for specific instructions.

Manually point devices at Pi-hole for DNS

On many devices, you can configure DNS settings in Wi-Fi preferences. Look in the “Advanced” section of your Wi-Fi or wired connection preferences for a DNS server setting. Put your Raspberry Pi’s IP address in this field. Your device should immediately start issuing DNS queries to the Pi-hole.

Unless you’ve configured a static IP address for your Raspberry Pi, this IP address can change at any time without warning. Follow the instructions under “Assign your Raspberry Pi a static IP address” in the DNS section above to configure a static IP address — this will prevent your device from losing its connection to the Pi-hole (and most of the internet!) when your Pi-hole’s dynamic IP address changes.

Is my Pi-hole working?

With a Pi-hole acting as the DNS server for your network, many pages will load without ads at all. Most privacy-invading trackers won’t work either. You’ll still see cookie and app install banners, because those can’t be blocked at the DNS level. To check to see if your Pi-hole is working correctly:

Check out Adblock Tester. Without Pi-hole, many browsers score near 0; with Pi-hole, you should see a score at or near 100.
Try visiting http://pi.hole/admin/login.php. Pi-hole always routes the pi.hole domain to your Raspberry Pi when you use Pi-hole as your DNS server.
Visit any site where you normally see ads and visually confirm that ads are no longer there.
Check the proportion of “queries blocked” on the Pi-hole dashboard. Many networks see between 10% and 50% of queries blocked!
Check the DNS server used by other computers in your network. You should be able to find this information in “Details” or “Advanced” Wi-Fi settings. If you see your Raspberry Pi’s IP address, your configuration worked!

If you’ve completed all of the setup steps but you’re still seeing ads (or, worse, DNS queries don’t resolve), try the trusty solution of turning your router off and on again. This should disconnect all devices from your network and renew all DHCP leases, putting your new settings into effect for every device. Congratulations! Your home network is now protected from ads. Put a slice of bread in your smart toaster, watch a movie on your smart TV, and flush your smart toilet in the comfort of privacy and security. source

1. Install a supported operating system

You can run Pi-hole in a container, or deploy it directly to a supported operating system via our automated installer.

Docker install

Supported operating systems

2. Install Pi-hole

Our intelligent, automated installer asks you a few questions and then sets everything up for you. Once complete, move onto step 3.

Install Pi-hole

3. Use Pi-hole as your DNS server

Configure your router’s DHCP options to force clients to use Pi-hole as their DNS server, or manually configure each device to use the Pi-hole as their DNS server.

Use Pi-hole as your DNS server

4. Block ads everywhere, even on the go

By pairing your Pi-hole with a VPN, you can have ad blocking on your cellular devices, helping with limited bandwidth data plans.

Pi-hole + VPN

Network-wide protection

Instead of browser plugins or other software on each computer, install Pi-hole in one place and your entire network is protected.

Block in-app advertisements

Network-level blocking allows you to block ads in non-traditional places such as mobile apps and smart TVs, regardless of hardware or OS.

Improve network performance

Since advertisements are blocked before they are downloaded, network performance is improved and will feel faster.

Monitor statistics

Our Web interface offers control of your Pi-hole and a central place to view statistics. We also include an API for extending these stats.

Web Interface

In addition to blocking advertisements, Pi-hole has an informative Web interface that shows stats on all the domains being queried on your network.

Built-in DHCP Server

Pi-hole works fine with an existing DHCP server, but you can use Pi-hole’s to keep your network management in one place.

Manage White And Black Lists

Fine-tune your experience by blacklisting or whitelisting domains. Extend this capability with powerful regex statements.

Query Log

See all the domains being queried on your network, where they originated, and more.

Long Term Statistics

Queries are stored in a database and can be queried at any time. Learn about what’s happening on your network over time.

Audit Log

Keep track of the most queried domains and add them to a white or blacklist from a central page.

Privacy Modes

Choose from four different privacy modes that works for your environment.

Other Settings

Control and configure other settings from the Web interface.

source

Kaspersky Virus Removal Tool application

The Truth News — Sat, 29 Jun 2024 20:52:09 +0000

Kaspersky Ban: Is Kaspersky Spyware? NO

FYI THE NSO GROUP made software for SECRET HACKING of ANY TARGET including HIGH VALUE TARGETS & PRESIDENTS! Pegasus is a spyware developed by the Israeli cyber-arms company NSO Group AND HAS NEVER BEEN ABLE TO BE DISCOVERED UNTIL…….. KASPERSKY FOUND A WAY TO DETECT THIS SPYWARE ON PHONES. NOW MAYBE THE US GOVERNMENT DOES NOT WANT ITS TARGETS HERE TO CHECK THEIR PHONES!

Download Kaspersky Virus Removal Tool application

Kaspersky Virus Removal Toolfor Windows®

download WINDOWS VERSION HERE from them and here from US

After downloading, there’s no need to install anything – just follow these simple steps:

Open the downloaded file.
Run Kaspersky Virus Removal Tool.

Helps remove malware from your PC if it’s been infected.

Running the application

Kaspersky Virus Removal Tool does not require installation. We recommend quitting all active applications before running Kaspersky Virus Removal Tool.

Running the application involves the following steps:

1 Downloading the application file

Download the application file from the Kaspersky official website and save the file on your local disk, for example, in the ~/Downloads directory.

2 Granting the execute permission

To make the application file executable using the graphical user interface:

Run your file manager and change to the directory with the kvrt.run application file.
Right-click the file to display the context menu and go to file properties.

Context menu of the file
In file properties, select the access permissions section. Depending on your operating system, this section can have different names, such as Permissions, Access rights, Discretionary attributes, etc.
Allow running the file as an application. Depending on your operating system, this setting can have different names, such as Allow executing file as program, Executable as program, Execute, etc.

File properties

If you cannot make the file executable using the GUI, you can use the command line.

To make the application file executable using the command line:

Run the Terminal application or its equivalent.
Change to the directory with the kvrt.run application file:
cd ~/Downloads
Run the following command to grant the execute permission:
chmod +x kvrt.run

3 Running the application file

To run the application file using the graphical user interface:

Right-click the file to display the context menu and select the command to run the file as an application. Depending on your operating system, this menu item can be named, for example, Run as a program, etc.

Context menu of the file
If you cannot run the file as an application, try running the application by double-clicking the file icon. The operating system may prompt you to confirm the execution of the file. In some operating systems, double-clicking the file icon opens the text editor instead of running the application.

If you cannot run the application file using the GUI, you can use the command line.

To run the application file using the command line:

Change to the directory with the kvrt.run application file:
cd ~/Downloads
Run the application file:
./kvrt.run

Running the application in Terminal

The application prompts you to enter your password to run the application as superuser (root).

Superuser password prompt

The application unpacks the necessary files into a temporary directory at /tmp/. When the application is closed, the temporary directory is deleted. If you terminate the process of the application, the temporary directory is deleted when the computer is restarted. You can specify a different directory for saving temporary files on the command line (--target ).

The application displays the End User License Agreement, the Privacy Policy, and the KSN Statement. Kaspersky Security Network (KSN) is an infrastructure of cloud services providing access to the online Kaspersky Knowledge Base that contains information about the reputation of files, web resources, and software. KSN participants receive information from Kaspersky and send Kaspersky information about objects detected on the user’s computer to be analyzed additionally by Kaspersky analysts and to be included in the reputation and statistical databases.

Carefully read the terms and conditions of the agreements before you accept them.

After completing the initialization, the application displays the main window of Kaspersky Virus Removal Tool. The application may then request proxy server credentials to connect to the internet. Internet access is required to connect to the KSN and update anti-virus databases.

The application creates a directory in which it places its working files:

/var/opt/KVRT2024_Data if the application was run by the superuser (root).
/home//KVRT2024_Data if the application was run by an ordinary user.

If Kaspersky Virus Removal Tool fails to run, you can scan your computer using the Kaspersky Rescue Disk. Kaspersky Rescue Disk is an application that allows scanning your computer without booting an operating system. To use it, you must create a bootable USB drive or CD/DVD disk and boot your computer from the external media. Kaspersky Rescue Disk can be managed in the same way as Kaspersky Virus Removal Tool.

Main application window

source

Removal tool for Kaspersky applications on Windows (kavremover)

Download the kavremover tool

Kavremover is a free tool for removing Kaspersky applications that cannot be removed completely using standard Windows tools. direct from them Download direct from us Download

We recommend using the latest tool version.Do not use the kavremover tool unless recommended to do so by Kaspersky Customer Service engineers. Unreasonable using of the tool may complicate the application removal.

How to remove a Kaspersky application using the kavremover tool

Download the kavremvr.exe executable file.
Run the file once it has downloaded.
Carefully read through the End User License Agreement. Click Аccept if you agree to the terms.

Enter the security code from the image.
Select the Kaspersky application you want to remove. If you have multiple Kaspersky applications installed on your computer, remove them one at a time.
Click Remove.

Wait until you receive a notification that the application has been successfully removed and click ОК.

Restart your PC.

If you experience any issues with kavremover, try to restart your computer in Safe Mode and run the tool once again.

Applications that can be removed with the kavremover tool

With the kavremover tool, you can remove the following Kaspersky applications:

AVP Tool driver
Endpoint Sensor
KTFS for Windows 3.0
Kaspersky Anti-Ransomware Tool (KART) for Business (all versions)
Kaspersky Anti-Targeted Attacks (KATA) Endpoint Sensor (all versions)
Kaspersky Anti-Virus (version 2009 and later)
Kaspersky Endpoint Agent 3.7
Kaspersky Endpoint Security for file servers and workstations for Windows (version 8 and later)
Kaspersky Fraud Prevention for Endpoint (all versions)
Kaspersky Free (all versions)
Kaspersky Internet Security (version 2009 and later)
Kaspersky PURE/CRYSTAL (all versions)
Kaspersky Password Manager (all versions)
Kaspersky Safe Kids (all versions)
Kaspersky Secure Connection (all versions)
Kaspersky Security Center 11 Web Console
Kaspersky Security Cloud (all versions)
Kaspersky Security Integrations for MSP
Kaspersky Security Scan (all versions)
Kaspersky Security for Virtualization Light Agent versions 5.0, 5.1, 5.2
Kaspersky Small Office Security for Personal Computer / File Server (all versions)
Kaspersky Standard, Plus, Premium (all versions)
Kaspersky Total Security (all versions)
MSI Integration Service MR2/MR3
MSI Integration Tool MR2/MR3
Nifty Security 24 Internet Security/Nifty Security 24 Internet Security 2013
Kaspersky Anti-Virus 6.0 FS MP4
Kaspersky Anti-Virus 6.0 SOS MP4
Kaspersky Anti-Virus 6.0 WKS MP4
Kaspersky Anti-Virus 6.0/6.0 R2 for Windows Servers
Kaspersky Anti-Virus 6.0/6.0 R2 for Windows Workstations

source

Cleanest Version of Windows – How to Customize a Windows ISO

The Truth News — Mon, 24 Jun 2024 22:12:04 +0000

Cleanest Version of Windows – How to Customize a Windows ISO

Creating a Bloatfree Version of Windows

follow this guide in the video below

here are the resources you will need to visit

https://schneegans.de/

Unattended XML genrator which is where the specific routine XML genrator is located this is a HIGHLY CUSTOMIZED generator capable of creating the leanest version of windows.

There is no chance of virus, you can read the XML changes in the XML files which are readable by NOTEPAD app and you can see all the options that winodows ISO will use to automate its own removal. Since you get the ISO from Microsoft and the software allows the addion of XML unattended automation you can assure all changes to the core ISO are down by you and allowed by Microsoft

Generate `autounattend.xml` files for Windows 10/11

https://schneegans.de/windows/unattend-generator/

Download Windows 10

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

Download Windows 11

https://www.microsoft.com/software-download/windows11

Answer files (unattend.xml)

Article
05/18/2022

Answer files (or Unattend files) can be used to modify Windows settings in your images during Setup. You can also create settings that trigger scripts in your images that run after the first user creates their account and picks their default language.

Windows Setup will automatically search for answer files in certain locations, or you can specify an unattend file to use by using the /unattend: option when running Windows Setup (setup.exe).

Windows settings overview

While you can set many Windows settings in audit mode, some settings can only be set by using an answer file or Windows Configuration Designer, such as adding manufacturer’s support information. A full list of answer file settings (also known as Unattend settings) is in the Unattended Windows Setup Reference.

Enterprises can control other settings by using Group Policy. For more info, see Group Policy.

Answer file settings

You can specify which configuration pass to add new settings. Each configuration pass represents an installation phase where settings can be configured:

1 windowsPE: These settings are used by the Windows Setup installation program. If you’re modifying existing images, you can usually ignore these settings.
2 offlineServicing: These settings are applied to offline images where you apply an Unattend file with DISM using the Apply-Unattend option. When you apply an Unattend file with DISM to an offline image, only the settings in this configuration pass are processed.
4 specialize: Most settings should be added here. These settings are triggered both at the beginning of audit mode and at the beginning of OOBE. If you need to make multiple updates or test settings, generalize the device again and add another batch of settings in the Specialize Configuration pass.
6 auditUser: Runs as soon as you start audit mode.
This is a great time to run a system test script – we’ll add Microsoft-Windows-Deployment\RunAsynchronousCommand as our example. To learn more, see Add a Custom Script to Windows Setup.
7 oobeSystem: Use sparingly. Most of these settings run after the user completes OOBE. The exception is the Microsoft-Windows-Deployment\Reseal\Mode = Audit setting, which we’ll use to bypass OOBE and boot the PC into audit mode.
If your script relies on knowing which language the user selects during OOBE, you’d add it to the oobeSystem pass.
To learn more, see Windows Setup Configuration Passes.

Note

These settings could be lost if the user resets their PC with the built-in recovery tools. To see how to make sure these settings stay on the device during a reset, see Sample scripts: Keeping Windows settings through a recovery.

Create and modify an answer file

This section walks through how to create and modify an Unattend file using tools available in the Windows Assessment and Deployment Kit. When creating an Unattend file for your deployment, you can configure different or additional settings than what is described below.

Step 1: Create a catalog file

Start Windows System Image Manager.
Click File > Select Windows Image.
In Select a Windows Image, browse to and select the image file (D:\install.wim). Next, select an edition of Windows, for example, Windows 10 Pro, and click OK. Click Yes to create the catalog file. Windows SIM creates the file based on the image file, and saves it to the same folder as the image file. This process can take several minutes.
The catalog file appears in the Windows Image pane. Windows SIM lists the configurable components and packages in that image.
Tip

If Windows SIM does not create the catalog file, try the following steps:
- To create a catalog file for either 32-bit or Arm-based devices, use a 32-bit device.
- Make sure the Windows base-image file (\Sources\Install.wim) is in a folder that has read-write privileges, such as a USB flash drive or on your hard drive.

Step 2: Create an answer file

Click File > New Answer File.
The new answer file appears in the Answer File pane.

Note

If you open an existing answer file, you might be prompted to associate the answer file with the image. Click Yes.

Step 3: Add new answer file settings

Add OEM info:
1. In the Windows Image pane, expand Components, right-click amd64_Microsoft-Windows-Shell-Setup_(version), and then select Add Setting to Pass 4 specialize.
2. In the Answer File pane, select Components\4 specialize\amd64_Microsoft-Windows-Shell-Setup_neutral\OEMInformation.
3. In the OEMInformation Properties pane, in the Settings section, select:
  - Manufacturer=Fabrikam
  - Model=Notebook Model 1
  - Logo=C:\Fabrikam\Fabrikam.bmp
4. Create a 32-bit color graphic/logo with a maximum size of 120×120 pixels and save it as D:\AnswerFiles\Fabrikam.bmp file on your local PC.
  We’ll copy the logo into the Windows image in a few steps.
Set the device to automatically boot to audit mode:
1. In the Windows Image pane, expand Components, right-click amd64_Microsoft-Windows-Deployment_(version), and then select Add Setting to Pass 7 oobeSystem.
2. In the Answer File pane, select Components\7 oobeSystem\amd64_Microsoft-Windows-Deployment_neutral\Reseal.
3. In the Reseal Properties pane, in the Settings section, select Mode=Audit.
Prepare a script to run after Audit mode begins.
1. In the Windows Image pane, right-click amd64_ Microsoft-Windows-Deployment_(version) and then click Add Setting to Pass 6 auditUser.
2. In the Answer File pane, expand Components\6 auditUser\amd64_Microsoft-Windows-Deployment_neutral\RunAsynchronous. Right-click RunAsynchronousCommand Properties and click Insert New AsynchronousCommand.
3. In the AsynchronousCommand Properties pane, in the Settings section, add the following values:
  - Path = C:\Fabrikam\SampleCommand.cmd
  - Description = Sample command to run a system diagnostic check.
  - Order = 1 (Determines the order that commands are run, starting with 1.)
Add a registry key. In this example, we add a REG_SZ key called ABCD into HKLM\Software\Sample with a value of 10. This command will call CMD /c REG ADD, just as if you were creating a registry key from the Command prompt.
Add RunAsynchronousCommands for each registry key to add. (Right-click RunAsynchronousCommand Properties and click Insert New AsynchronousCommand).

Windows Command Prompt
```
Path = CMD /c REG ADD HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\Software\Sample /v 10 /t REG_SZ ABCD
Description = Adds a OEM registry key
Order = 2
RequiredUserInput = false
```

See the Unattended Windows Setup Reference for a full list of configuration options.

Step 4: Save the answer file

Save the answer file, for example: D:\AnswerFiles\BootToAudit-x64.xml.

Note

Windows SIM will not allow you to save the answer file into the mounted image folders.

Step 5: Create a script

Since we specified a script to run in Step 3.3, let’s create that script now.

Copy the following sample script into Notepad, and save it as D:\AnswerFiles\SampleCommand.cmd.

Windows Command Prompt

@rem Scan the integrity of system files 
@rem (Required after removing the base English language from an image)
sfc.exe /scannow

@rem Check to see if your drivers are digitally signed, and send output to a log file.
md C:\Fabrikam
C:\Windows\System32\dxdiag /t C:\Fabrikam\DxDiag-TestLogFiles.txt

Add the answer file and script to the image

Step 6: Mount an image and add the answer file

Use DISM to mount a Windows image. To learn how to mount an image, see Mount and modify a Windows image using DISM
Copy the answer file into the image into the \Windows\Panther folder, and name it unattend.xml. The Panther folder is one of the folders where Windows searches for an answer file. Create the folder if it doesn’t exist. If there’s an existing answer file, replace it or use Windows System Image Manager to edit/combine settings if necessary.
Windows Command Prompt
```
MkDir c:\mount\windows\Windows\Panther
Copy D:\AnswerFiles\BootToAudit-x64.xml  C:\mount\windows\Windows\Panther\unattend.xml
MkDir c:\mount\windows\Fabrikam
Copy D:\AnswerFiles\Fabrikam.bmp    C:\mount\windows\Fabrikam\Fabrikam.bmp
Copy D:\AnswerFiles\SampleCommand.cmd    C:\mount\windows\Fabrikam\SampleCommand.cmd
```
Unmount the image, committing the changes. For example:
Windows Command Prompt
```
Dism /Unmount-Image /MountDir:"C:\mount\windows" /Commit
```
where C is the drive letter of the drive that contains the mounted image.

This process may take several minutes.

When you apply your image, Windows will process your unattend file and will configure your settings based on what you specified in the unattend. source

Below you will find several answer files that can be used to install Windows 11. Each answer file serves a different purpose as described below. Note that these can be used to bypass the normal system requirements for installation of Windows 11. If you want Windows to perform the usual system requirements checks, that section can be easily removed. All of these answer files will install the Windows Professional Edition. You can change the key in an answer file if you want to change it from Pro to Home or another edition. Those answer files that specify locality data are configured to install Windows English language editions for use in the United States and set a time zone of US Central Time. Again, you can alter these if you like.

If you have any special requests for customized answer files, let me know and I’ll be happy to help.

Preceding each answer file is a description of what that answer file does and anything that you may want to pay attention to regarding usage of that answer file.

The answer files are listed in order from those that do the least (simply bypassing Win 11 requirements) to those that do the most (full unattended installation).

TIP: For all answer files except the Autounattend_Bypass.xml, if you change the key in the answer file to a Windows Home Edition key, you will end up with a local account called “WinAdmin” so these answer files can be used to install Windows Home with a Local Account which is not normally possible during a manual installation.

Using the Answer Files to Install Windows…

… on a Physical Machine

Create your thumb drive for installing Windows in the same manner that you always do. Copy the answer file that you want to use onto the root of the thumb drive and rename it to “autounattend.xml”.

… in a VM (Method 1 – Easy Method)

Place the answer file that you wish to use in a folder all by itself and rename it to autounattend.xml.

Create an ISO image from the contents of that folder using any software that you like – just make sure that the answer file is at the root of the drive, not in a folder. If you use the OSCDIMG utility that is installed with the Windows ADK, use the syntax as in the example below.

Code:

OSCDIMG.EXE -o -m -h -k -u2 -udfver102 -L"Vol_Name" "Source" "Destination"

Be aware that there is no space after the “-L”.

Vol_Name is the Volume name that would show up when the ISO image is mounted. You can use “” to indicate no volume name or omit the -L”Vol_Name” since this is optional.

Source is the entire path to the folder where you saved answer file.

Destination is the full destination path including the filename of the ISO image you are creating.

Example:

Code:

OSCDIMG.EXE -o -m -h -k -u2 -udfver102 -L"My Answer File" "C:\Answer File" "%UserProfile%\Desktop\My Answer File.ISO"

When you install Windows, simply attach this ISO image as a second drive. This works because Windows setup will search the root of all drives it has access to for an answer file.

… in a VM (Method 2 – More Difficult)

This method is slightly more difficult because you will need to re-create your Windows ISO image making sure to properly make it a bootable image.

Copy the contents of your Windows ISO image file to a folder. In this example, I will assume C:\ISO_Files.

Copy the answer file that you wish to use to that folder and rename it to autounattend.xml.

Re-create your ISO image. If you are using the OSCDIMG tool that is installed with the Windows ADK, use the syntax as in the example below. BE CAREFUL! This command has spots where you might expect to see a space, but none exists.

Replace the 3 occurrences of c:\iso_files with the correct path to where your files are located. Also, replace the c:\Win11.iso at the end of command with the correct path and name for the output file that you want to save. If a path contains spaces, enclose it in double quotes.

Code:

oscdimg.exe -m -o -u2 -udfver102 -bootdata:2#p0,e,bc:\iso_files\boot\etfsboot.com#pEF,e,bc:\iso_files\efi\microsoft\boot\efisys.bin c:\iso_files c:\Win11.iso

Autounattend_Bypass.xml – Using this answer file with Windows 11 will bypass the checks for supported CPU, TPM, Secure Boot, memory and storage space requirements. Note that this answer file does NOT automate installation. The only thing that it does is bypass those checks. This can be used on both BIOS and UEFI based systems. You will still need to respond to the prompts and provide the information requested by setup just as with any standard installation of Windows.

EDIT: Below code edited on April 12, 2022. In order for this to work, you still need to specify a product key in the answer file and I was missing that in this sample. In this sample I am now using a Windows 10/11 Pro key.

Code:



    
        
            
                
                    VK7JG-NPHTM-C97JM-9MPGT-3V66T
                
                true
            
            
                
                    1
                    reg add HKLM\System\Setup\LabConfig /v BypassTPMCheck /t reg_dword /d 0x00000001 /f
                
                
                    2
                    reg add HKLM\System\Setup\LabConfig /v BypassSecureBootCheck /t reg_dword /d 0x00000001 /f
                
                
                    3
                    reg add HKLM\System\Setup\LabConfig /v BypassRAMCheck /t reg_dword /d 0x00000001 /f
                
                
                    5
                    reg add HKLM\System\Setup\LabConfig /v BypassCPUCheck /t reg_dword /d 0x00000001 /f
                
                
                    4
                    reg add HKLM\System\Setup\LabConfig /v BypassStorageCheck /t reg_dword /d 0x00000001 /f

Autounattend_Bypass_No_Location.xml – Installs Windows on either a BIOS or UEFI based system. It will bypass the checks for supported CPU, TPM, Secure Boot, memory and storage space requirements. The installation will be completely unattended EXCEPT that the user will need to specify onto what disk Windows should be installed. This is perfect for systems where you are not certain of the disk number that you will install onto in advance. Another advantage of this is that Windows will install the recovery partition last which follows the latest recommendation from Microsoft which would not happen if you specified the disk to install to in your answer file. Creates an Administrator level user named “WinAdmin” with no password.

Code:



    
        
            
                en-US
            
            en-US
            en-US
            en-US
            en-US
            en-US
        
        
            
                
                    1
                    reg add HKLM\System\Setup\LabConfig /v BypassTPMCheck /t reg_dword /d 0x00000001 /f
                
                
                    2
                    reg add HKLM\System\Setup\LabConfig /v BypassSecureBootCheck /t reg_dword /d 0x00000001 /f
                
                
                    3
                    reg add HKLM\System\Setup\LabConfig /v BypassRAMCheck /t reg_dword /d 0x00000001 /f
                
                
                    5
                    reg add HKLM\System\Setup\LabConfig /v BypassCPUCheck /t reg_dword /d 0x00000001 /f
                
                
                    4
                    reg add HKLM\System\Setup\LabConfig /v BypassStorageCheck /t reg_dword /d 0x00000001 /f
                
            
            
                
                    VK7JG-NPHTM-C97JM-9MPGT-3V66T
                
                true
            
            
                
                    
                        \install.wim
                    
                
            
        
    
    
        
            en-US
            en-US
            en-US
            en-US
            en-US
        
        
            
                
                    false
                
                true
                true
                true
                true
                1
                false
            
            
                
                    
                        
                            UABhAHMAcwB3AG8AcgBkADEAUABhAHMAcwB3AG8AcgBkAA==
                            false</PlainText>
                        </Password>
                        <DisplayName>Windows Admin</DisplayName>
                        <Group>administrators</Group>
                        <Name>WinAdmin</Name>
                    </LocalAccount>
                </LocalAccounts>
            </UserAccounts>
            <TimeZone>Central Standard Time</TimeZone>
            <AutoLogon>
                <Password>
                    <Value>UABhAHMAcwB3AG8AcgBkADEAUABhAHMAcwB3AG8AcgBkAA==</Value>
                    <PlainText>false</PlainText>
                </Password>
                <Enabled>true</Enabled>
                <LogonCount>1</LogonCount>
                <Username>WinAdmin</Username>
            </AutoLogon>
            <FirstLogonCommands>
                <SynchronousCommand wcm:action="add">
                    <CommandLine>reg add &quot;HKLM\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\Winlogon&quot; /v AutoLogonCount /t REG_DWORD /d 0 /f</CommandLine>
                    <Order>1</Order>
                </SynchronousCommand>
            </FirstLogonCommands>
        </component>
    </settings>
    <settings pass="specialize">
        <component name="Microsoft-Windows-Shell-Setup" processorArchitecture="amd64" publicKeyToken="31bf3856ad364e35" language="neutral" versionScope="nonSxS" xmlns:wcm="http://schemas.microsoft.com/WMIConfig/2002/State" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance">
            <TimeZone>Central Standard Time</TimeZone>
        </component>
    </settings>
    <cpi:offlineImage cpi:source="catalog://godzilla/data/windows/windows tools and deployment apps/assets for deployment/win 11 pro 21h2 catalog file/install_windows 10 pro.clg" xmlns:cpi="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:cpi" />
</unattend></code></pre>
</div>
</div>
<p><b>Autounattend_Bypass_Unattended.xml</b> &#8211; Installs Windows 11 Pro on a UEFI based system to disk 0. Creates an Administrator level user named &#8220;WinAdmin&#8221; with no password. Bypasses the checks for supported CPU, TPM, Secure Boot, memory and strorage space requirements. IMPORTANT: Be aware that this is a 100% fully automated installation. It will wipe out disk 0 and install to it. Make sure that disk 0 is really the corrtect disk! Make sure you don&#8217;t accidentally boot a thumb drive or ISO image with this answer file on it because it WILL WIPE DISK 0 WITHOUT WARNING!</p>
<div class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--screenLimited bbCodeBlock--code">
<div class="bbCodeBlock-title">Code:</div>
<div class="bbCodeBlock-content" dir="ltr">
<pre class="bbCodeCode" dir="ltr" data-xf-init="code-block" data-lang=""><code><?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?>
<unattend xmlns="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:unattend">
    <settings pass="windowsPE">
        <component name="Microsoft-Windows-International-Core-WinPE" processorArchitecture="amd64" publicKeyToken="31bf3856ad364e35" language="neutral" versionScope="nonSxS" xmlns:wcm="http://schemas.microsoft.com/WMIConfig/2002/State" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance">
            <SetupUILanguage>
                <UILanguage>en-US</UILanguage>
            </SetupUILanguage>
            <InputLocale>en-US</InputLocale>
            <SystemLocale>en-US</SystemLocale>
            <UILanguage>en-US</UILanguage>
            <UILanguageFallback>en-US</UILanguageFallback>
            <UserLocale>en-US</UserLocale>
        </component>
        <component name="Microsoft-Windows-Setup" processorArchitecture="amd64" publicKeyToken="31bf3856ad364e35" language="neutral" versionScope="nonSxS" xmlns:wcm="http://schemas.microsoft.com/WMIConfig/2002/State" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance">
            <RunSynchronous>
                <RunSynchronousCommand wcm:action="add">
                    <Order>1</Order>
                    <Path>reg add HKLM\System\Setup\LabConfig /v BypassTPMCheck /t reg_dword /d 0x00000001 /f</Path>
                </RunSynchronousCommand>
                <RunSynchronousCommand wcm:action="add">
                    <Order>2</Order>
                    <Path>reg add HKLM\System\Setup\LabConfig /v BypassSecureBootCheck /t reg_dword /d 0x00000001 /f</Path>
                </RunSynchronousCommand>
                <RunSynchronousCommand wcm:action="add">
                    <Order>3</Order>
                    <Path>reg add HKLM\System\Setup\LabConfig /v BypassRAMCheck /t reg_dword /d 0x00000001 /f</Path>
                </RunSynchronousCommand>
                <RunSynchronousCommand wcm:action="add">
                    <Order>5</Order>
                    <Path>reg add HKLM\System\Setup\LabConfig /v BypassCPUCheck /t reg_dword /d 0x00000001 /f</Path>
                </RunSynchronousCommand>
                <RunSynchronousCommand wcm:action="add">
                    <Order>4</Order>
                    <Path>reg add HKLM\System\Setup\LabConfig /v BypassStorageCheck /t reg_dword /d 0x00000001 /f</Path>
                </RunSynchronousCommand>
            </RunSynchronous>
            <DiskConfiguration>
                <Disk wcm:action="add">
                    <CreatePartitions>
                        <CreatePartition wcm:action="add">
                            <Order>1</Order>
                            <Size>500</Size>
                            <Type>Primary</Type>
                        </CreatePartition>
                        <CreatePartition wcm:action="add">
                            <Order>2</Order>
                            <Size>260</Size>
                            <Type>EFI</Type>
                        </CreatePartition>
                        <CreatePartition wcm:action="add">
                            <Order>3</Order>
                            <Size>128</Size>
                            <Type>MSR</Type>
                        </CreatePartition>
                        <CreatePartition wcm:action="add">
                            <Extend>true</Extend>
                            <Order>4</Order>
                            <Type>Primary</Type>
                        </CreatePartition>
                    </CreatePartitions>
                    <ModifyPartitions>
                        <ModifyPartition wcm:action="add">
                            <Format>NTFS</Format>
                            <Label>WinRE</Label>
                            <Order>1</Order>
                            <PartitionID>1</PartitionID>
                            <TypeID>DE94BBA4-06D1-4D40-A16A-BFD50179D6AC</TypeID>
                        </ModifyPartition>
                        <ModifyPartition wcm:action="add">
                            <Format>FAT32</Format>
                            <Label>System</Label>
                            <Order>2</Order>
                            <PartitionID>2</PartitionID>
                        </ModifyPartition>
                        <ModifyPartition wcm:action="add">
                            <Order>3</Order>
                            <PartitionID>3</PartitionID>
                        </ModifyPartition>
                        <ModifyPartition wcm:action="add">
                            <Format>NTFS</Format>
                            <Label>Windows</Label>
                            <Letter>C</Letter>
                            <Order>4</Order>
                            <PartitionID>4</PartitionID>
                        </ModifyPartition>
                    </ModifyPartitions>
                    <DiskID>0</DiskID>
                    <WillWipeDisk>true</WillWipeDisk>
                </Disk>
            </DiskConfiguration>
            <UserData>
                <ProductKey>
                    <Key>VK7JG-NPHTM-C97JM-9MPGT-3V66T</Key>
                </ProductKey>
                <AcceptEula>true</AcceptEula>
            </UserData>
            <ImageInstall>
                <OSImage>
                    <InstallTo>
                        <DiskID>0</DiskID>
                        <PartitionID>4</PartitionID>
                    </InstallTo>
                </OSImage>
            </ImageInstall>
        </component>
    </settings>
    <settings pass="oobeSystem">
        <component name="Microsoft-Windows-International-Core" processorArchitecture="amd64" publicKeyToken="31bf3856ad364e35" language="neutral" versionScope="nonSxS" xmlns:wcm="http://schemas.microsoft.com/WMIConfig/2002/State" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance">
            <InputLocale>en-US</InputLocale>
            <SystemLocale>en-US</SystemLocale>
            <UILanguage>en-US</UILanguage>
            <UILanguageFallback>en-US</UILanguageFallback>
            <UserLocale>en-US</UserLocale>
        </component>
        <component name="Microsoft-Windows-Shell-Setup" processorArchitecture="amd64" publicKeyToken="31bf3856ad364e35" language="neutral" versionScope="nonSxS" xmlns:wcm="http://schemas.microsoft.com/WMIConfig/2002/State" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance">
            <OOBE>
                <VMModeOptimizations>
                    <SkipAdministratorProfileRemoval>false</SkipAdministratorProfileRemoval>
                </VMModeOptimizations>
                <HideEULAPage>true</HideEULAPage>
                <HideOEMRegistrationScreen>true</HideOEMRegistrationScreen>
                <HideOnlineAccountScreens>true</HideOnlineAccountScreens>
                <HideWirelessSetupInOOBE>true</HideWirelessSetupInOOBE>
                <ProtectYourPC>1</ProtectYourPC>
                <UnattendEnableRetailDemo>false</UnattendEnableRetailDemo>
            </OOBE>
            <UserAccounts>
                <LocalAccounts>
                    <LocalAccount wcm:action="add">
                        <Password>
                            <Value>UABhAHMAcwB3AG8AcgBkADEAUABhAHMAcwB3AG8AcgBkAA==</Value>
                            <PlainText>false</PlainText>
                        </Password>
                        <DisplayName>Windows Admin</DisplayName>
                        <Group>administrators</Group>
                        <Name>WinAdmin</Name>
                    </LocalAccount>
                </LocalAccounts>
            </UserAccounts>
            <TimeZone>Central Standard Time</TimeZone>
            <AutoLogon>
                <Password>
                    <Value>UABhAHMAcwB3AG8AcgBkADEAUABhAHMAcwB3AG8AcgBkAA==</Value>
                    <PlainText>false</PlainText>
                </Password>
                <Enabled>true</Enabled>
                <LogonCount>1</LogonCount>
                <Username>WinAdmin</Username>
            </AutoLogon>
            <FirstLogonCommands>
                <SynchronousCommand wcm:action="add">
                    <CommandLine>reg add &quot;HKLM\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\Winlogon&quot; /v AutoLogonCount /t REG_DWORD /d 0 /f</CommandLine>
                    <Order>1</Order>
                </SynchronousCommand>
            </FirstLogonCommands>
        </component>
    </settings>
    <settings pass="specialize">
        <component name="Microsoft-Windows-Shell-Setup" processorArchitecture="amd64" publicKeyToken="31bf3856ad364e35" language="neutral" versionScope="nonSxS" xmlns:wcm="http://schemas.microsoft.com/WMIConfig/2002/State" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance">
            <TimeZone>Central Standard Time</TimeZone>
        </component>
    </settings>
    <cpi:offlineImage cpi:source="catalog://godzilla/crucial_nvmewin11/sources/install_windows 10 pro.clg" xmlns:cpi="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:cpi" />
</unattend></code></pre>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="js-selectToQuoteEnd"><a href="https://www.elevenforum.com/t/sharing-some-helpful-answer-files-to-bypass-win-11-setup-requirements-and-more.3300/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">source</a></div>
</article>
</div>

</article>
<article>
<h1>How to Run Windows From a USB Drive</h1>
<p>The Truth News — Wed, 08 Nov 2023 08:33:57 +0000</p>
<h1 class="font-featured text-4xl md:text-5xl leading-tight tracking-wide mb-4">How to Run Windows From a USB Drive</h1>
<p class="mb-4 leading-normal text-lg">Stuck using a PC with an older operating system? Not if you know how to run Windows 10 or Windows 11 from a flash drive.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p></p>
<h2 id="what-you-ll-need-to-get-started">What You&#8217;ll Need to Get Started</h2>
<p>For this process to work, you&#8217;re going to need a few items:</p>
<ul>
<li>A USB 3.0 Flash Drive with at least 32 GB of storage&#8212;bigger is better! You could use a 2.0 USB drive, but it will be extremely slow.</li>
</ul>
<h2><span style="color: #0000ff;">Download Software Tools Needed</span></h2>
<ul>
<li>A copy of <span class="yt-core-attributed-string--link-inherit-color"><strong>Rufus</strong>: </span><span class="yt-core-attributed-string--link-inherit-color"><a class="yt-core-attributed-string__link yt-core-attributed-string__link--display-type yt-core-attributed-string__link--call-to-action-color" tabindex="0" href="https://rufus.ie/en/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">https://rufus.ie/en/</a></span></li>
<li></li>
<li><strong><span class="yt-core-attributed-string--link-inherit-color">Windows 11 ISO: </span></strong><span class="yt-core-attributed-string--link-inherit-color"><a class="yt-core-attributed-string__link yt-core-attributed-string__link--display-type yt-core-attributed-string__link--call-to-action-color" tabindex="0" href="https://www.microsoft.com/software-download/windows11" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.microsoft.com/software-download/windows11</a></span><span class="yt-core-attributed-string--link-inherit-color"><br />
<strong>Windows 10 ISO:</strong> </span><span class="yt-core-attributed-string--link-inherit-color"><a class="yt-core-attributed-string__link yt-core-attributed-string__link--display-type yt-core-attributed-string__link--call-to-action-color" tabindex="0" href="https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10</a></span></li>
<li>A valid license for your portable copy of Windows</li>
</ul>
<h2 id="create-a-bootable-usb-drive"><span style="color: #0000ff;">Create a Bootable USB Drive</span></h2>
<p>In order to create a bootable USB drive that can run Windows 10 or Windows 11, you need to enlist the aid of a third-party program. Though Microsoft has stopped offering its own tool, options like WinToUSB, Rufus, and Ventoy can get the job done. Choose your tool then connect a blank USB drive to your computer.</p>
<h3><span style="color: #ff0000;"><strong>Create Drive With Rufus</strong></span></h3>
<p></p>
<p>You can also use the utility program Rufus. Download, install, and launch the program. Select your USB drive in the <strong>Device </strong>field, if it&#8217;s not already selected. Click the <strong>Select </strong>button next to the <strong>Boot selection</strong> field and choose your saved Windows ISO file.</p>
<p>For older computers with a legacy BIOS mode, change <strong>Partition scheme</strong> to <strong>MBR</strong>. For newer computers with UEFI mode enabled, change it to <strong>GPT</strong>. You can leave the other options at their default values. If you wish, change the <strong>Volume label</strong> to a name like Windows 10 or Windows 11. Click the Start button to kick things off.</p>
<p></p>
<p>At the next screen, choose the version of Windows that you want to run on the USB drive. This program allows you to select Home, Pro, and Education versions of Windows 10 and 11. Click <strong>OK </strong>to continue. Review the settings at the popup window and then click <strong>OK</strong>. Click <strong>OK </strong>again to proceed.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Rufus will then copy the necessary files to your connected drive. You can follow the program&#8217;s progress under the <strong>Status </strong>section. Once the process is complete, you can safely close the Rufus window.</p>
<h2><span style="color: #ff0000;">How to Launch Windows From a Flash Drive</span></h2>
<p>When you want to launch Windows from your flash drive, insert it into the computer and restart the machine. During the boot process, you will need to press a certain key to reach the Boot menu. This key will differ depending on the make and model of your computer, but it should be listed on the screen as the computer starts up.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Find the option to boot the computer off your USB drive, then allow the PC to start up. The first time you run Windows off the flash drive, you will need to go through the Windows setup process. You must also activate Windows.</p>
<p>Once Windows is properly set up, you can then install applications onto the USB drive and access any files stored online. You should find that the experience comes close to working on one of your own Windows PCs.</p>
<h2><em><span style="color: #ff0000;">Paid programs below to help you if the above was too much</span></em></h2>
<ul>
<li><strong>Create Drive With <a href="https://www.easeus.com/system-to-go/how-to-create-bootable-windows-usb-for-mac.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener">EaseUS OS2Go</a></strong></li>
<li><strong>Create Drive With <a href="https://www.easyuefi.com/wintousb/comparison.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener">WinToUSB</a></strong></li>
</ul>
<hr />
<h2>Bootable USB vs. Portable USB: What&#8217;s the Difference?</h2>
<p>Do a bootable, and portable USB drive concept confuse you? Then, you aren&#8217;t the only one who can&#8217;t tell the difference between bootable and portable USBs. Often people peg both for the same, but that&#8217;s untrue.</p>
<p>Both bootable and portable USBs are useful in different situations.</p>
<p>Bootable USB or other external devices contain a bootable program that can take control of the computer. Usually, Windows ISO files are stored in bootable USB drives to initiate a clean operating system install. A bootable USB is useful to recover your failed system.</p>
<p>Portable USB also carries OS frameworks, but it isn&#8217;t required to install them on the computer. By simply inserting a portable USB drive into a computer, one can run OS stored in the USB on any device.</p>
<p>The portable USB drives are extremely helpful to run Windows-specific games or applications on Mac devices. You can simply clone the entire system on a portable USB and make it bootable on other devices.</p>
<p>Now that it&#8217;s clear, what a bootable and portable USB drive is, next, let&#8217;s see how to create them.</p>
<p>And that leads us to the topic of the hour, <strong>Rufus vs. EaseUS OS2Go</strong>. Rufus is a robust tool to create a bootable USB drive, and EaseUS OS2Go is a powerful program to create a portable/bootable USB drive. Let&#8217;s explore both programs in detail.</p>
<h2>Rufus vs. EaseUS OS2Go: What&#8217;s Rufus?</h2>
<p><a href="https://rufus.ie/en/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">Rufus</a> is free software to create a bootable USB drive. It is an extremely lightweight utility program that can easily create ISO disk images on USBs.</p>
<p>Rufus is compatible with Windows 10, 8, and 7. You can download Rufus for free online and enjoy the following features:</p>
<p></p>
<ul>
<li>100% free for both personal and commercial use</li>
<li>Allows to operate legacy tools with MBR and FreeDOS</li>
<li>Help to format USB drives into different file formats like NTFS, UDF, FAT, ReFS, exFAT, and more</li>
<li>It helps compute MD5, SHA-256, and SHA-1 hashes to any selected images</li>
<li>The user interface is quite simple and modern</li>
<li>The program is so lightweight that can run it on laptops</li>
<li>Auto-update takes away all the manual updates trouble</li>
<li>Supports different regional languages</li>
<li>Allows to adjust the cluster size without any trouble and more.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Pros</h3>
<ul>
<li>Superfast.</li>
<li>Offers different partition and formatting options.</li>
<li>Extremely lightweight tool.</li>
<li>Free to use.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Cons</h3>
<ul>
<li>Allows only 1 ISO at a time.</li>
</ul>
<h3>How to Use Rufus to Create a Bootable USB Drive</h3>
<p><strong>Step 1. </strong>Download Rufus from https://rufus.ie and attach at least 8 GB clean USB to the computer.</p>
<p><strong>Step 2.</strong> Open Rufus on a computer, and it will automatically detect the USB drive. Click on the Device > Select the USB you want to boot from the drop-down menu.</p>
<p><strong>Step 3.</strong> Keep the Boot Selection option set to Disk for ISO image and then click on the Select. A file explorer browser window will now open; here, locate the ISO image you want to burn onto the USB and select it.</p>
<p></p>
<p><strong>Step 4.</strong> Generally, people create a Standard Windows installation that Rufus will automatically detect based on the device. So, keep the default settings the same, but you can change these when needed.</p>
<p></p>
<p><strong>Step 5. </strong>Provide a name to the Volume label, or leave as it is. Also, keep the File system and Cluster size settings as they are. Next, click on the Start.</p>
<p></p>
<p><strong>Step 6.</strong> Rufus might send a warning saying that data on the USB will be destroyed. It is normal, so click on the OK, and Rufus will start creating the bootable USB.</p>
<h2>Rufus vs. EaseUS OS2Go: What&#8217;s EaseUS OS2Go?</h2>
<p><a href="https://www.easeus.com/utilities/ostogo.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener">EaseUS OS2Go</a> is a stunning tool that can create portable as well as bootable Windows USB drive. You can simply copy the Windows environment on your USB flash drive and run it on Windows or Mac devices with this tool.</p>
<p>Whether you want to create a portable Windows To Go USB or bootable Windows USB for Mac, this program is ready to help seamlessly. Importantly, it is compatible with the latest Windows 11, which Rufus lacks.</p>
<p></p>
<p>EaseUS OS2Go brings forward many other features on the table, such as:</p>
<ul>
<li>Accessible from various computers, including Mac and Windows</li>
<li>Allows to run Windows-specific programs on Mac</li>
<li>You can easily carry OS system in a pocket, no need to carry bulky laptops</li>
<li>Portable USB drives are most cost-effective than hard drives</li>
<li>EaseUS supports all the USB brands</li>
<li>Provides 24*7 premium email support, etc.</li>
</ul>
<p>Pros</p>
<ul>
<li>Seamless integration.</li>
<li>It can create both bootable and portable USB drives.</li>
<li>Simple to use.</li>
<li>Intuitive interface.</li>
<li>One-click solution.</li>
<li>7 days free trial.</li>
</ul>
<p>Cons</p>
<ul>
<li>Not 100% free.</li>
</ul>
<p id="step_start"><strong>Step 1.</strong> Install EaseUS OS2Go on your Windows computer, it will display your system drive&#8217;s used space. Plug in a USB drive that is larger than the system drive used space. Choose the target USB drive and click Next to continue.</p>
<div class="img_box_pop pop_img"></div>
<p><strong>Step 2. </strong>EaseUS OS2Go will notify you that the following operation would delete all data on your drive. Make sure that you have backed up all the important data. Click the Continue button to proceed.</p>
<div class="img_box_pop pop_img"></div>
<p><strong>Step 3.</strong> Adjust disk layout. The default disk layout on the target drive will be exactly the same as the resource drive. You could also edit the layout according to your needs. Tick the option there if you&#8217;re using a Solid State Drive as the Windows bootable drive. Next, click Proceed.</p>
<div class="img_box_pop pop_img"></div>
<p><strong>Step 4.</strong> Then EaseUS OS2Go will start to create the portable USB drive. It usually takes a while depending on your OS and Network condition. When the progress reaches 100%, the USB drive should be bootable now.</p>
<div class="img_box_pop pop_img"></div>
<p><strong>Step 5.</strong> Insert the portable Windows USB and start your computer. Press the required key (F2, DEL, F10&#8230;) to access BIOS. Choose to boot from the USB disk.</p>
<p><strong>Note:</strong> Please make sure that the boot mode (<a href="https://www.easeus.com/partition-master/how-to-know-if-windows-using-uefi-or-legacy.html">UEFI or Legacy</a>) of the portable USB and your target computer are the same, otherwise you may not be able to boot.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Choose Your Own Bootable Creation Solution Wisely</h2>
<p>After knowing about bootable and portable USB drives, it is clear that bootable USB helps you clean install, and portable USB allows you to run ISO files without downloading on another device.</p>
<p>Both USB drives are useful in certain conditions. For instance, bootable USB drives are good to recover failed system, and portable USB helps to run Windows on any device including a Mac.</p>
<p>Therefore, it is good to get the EaseUS OS2Go tool because it allows to create bootable and portable USB drives. However, it is not free but contains more features than Rufus.</p>
<p>We have shared a complete Rufus vs. EaseUS OS2Go guide here and now leave the final choice in your hands. Make your decision wisely.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<hr />
<p><a href="https://www.pcmag.com/how-to/how-to-run-windows-10-from-a-usb-drive">source</a> <a href="https://www.howtogeek.com/406118/how-and-why-to-run-portable-versions-of-windows/#option-1-install-windows-on-a-usb-drive-with-rufus" target="_blank" rel="noopener">source</a> <a href="https://www.easeus.com/system-to-go/rufus-vs-easeus-os2go.html#:~:text=Therefore%2C%20it%20is%20good%20to,final%20choice%20in%20your%20hands." target="_blank" rel="noopener">source</a></p>

</article>
</main></body></html>

Windows Archives - Good Shepherd News - Fastest Growing Religious, Free Speech & Political Content

What is a Wi-Fi Pineapple? How to Protect Yourself From Pineapple Attacks

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Tips for Staying Safe in a Dangerous Digital World

How to Install Node-Red to Home Assistant – Using Node-Red for Complex Home Automations

Installing Node-Red

Creating your First Node-Red Flow

Conclusion

Node-RED, the visual programming tool for Internet of Things

Node-RED has replaced my complex Home Assistant automations, and it does them so much better

It pairs well with my Home Assistant devices

But HASS isn’t the only data server for my Node-RED instance

Amazing for automation chains

The node-based workflow makes everything easier

No more YAML shenanigans

Solid troubleshooting provisions

That said, HASS is better for simple automation projects

Home Assistant with Node-Red

Getting Started

Integrating Node-Red with Home Assistant

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Access ANY Network (remotely) What is a Hacker Dropbox?

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Family HelpDesk Support

This is NOT VPN

You don’t need to know ANYTHING about the network

What do you need?

What other hardware options do I have?

The Tutorial

Step 1 – Setup Twingate

Step 2 – Add your first remote network

Step 2.5 – Prep your Hacker Dropbox

Step 3 – Adding a connector for your remote network

Step 4 – Add a remote WiFi Network (if not using ethernet)

Step 5 – Use the Twingate API to learn about the remote network

Run the Python Script

Create the script

Now, we’ll create a python virtual environment

Setting Up A Police Scanner With An RTL-SDR

Setting Up A Police Scanner With An RTL-SDR

shopping

basic setup

specific setup

groups

broadcasting

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Hacker Tool Kit & Pen Tester Kit HackerBox 0073 LAN Lord

Hacker Tool Kit & Pen Tester Kit HackerBox 0073 LAN Lord

Supplies

Step 1: Wi-Fi Frequencies and Channels

Step 2: ESP8266 D1 Mini

Attachments

Step 3: Assemble the Wi-Fi Nugget

Attachments

Step 4: Wi-Fi Nugget Projects

Step 5: Rtlduino RTL8720DN Dual-Band IoT Module

Step 6: Rtlduino – Removing the Factory Firmware

Step 7: Rtlduino – Configure and Test Arduino Tools

Step 8: Rtlduino – TFT Display Interface PCB

Step 9: Rtlduino TFT – PCB Specs

Step 10: Rtlduino – Dual Frequency Wi-Fi Mapping

Attachments

Step 11: Wardriving

GhostESP- The ESP32-C6

Share this:

Download Softare Below

Spooks4576/Ghost_ESP Buy here

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GPS/GNSS Module by Rabbit-Labs Buy Here

Block Internet ads at home with Pi-hole

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Block Internet ads at home with Pi-hole

Generate `autounattend.xml` files for Windows 10/11