Gratitude, far from being a sentimental notion, has emerged as a scientifically supported force capable of transforming the human brain and improving overall mental health.

Neuroscientific studies have shown that regularly practicing gratitude activates brain regions associated with moral cognition, emotional regulation, and reward, particularly the medial prefrontal cortex and anterior cingulate cortex (Zahn et al., 2009).

Notably, Dr. Alex Korb, in his book The Upward Spiral, describes how gratitude stimulates the release of dopamine and serotonin—two neurotransmitters vital for mood stabilization and happiness —making it a powerful natural antidepressant.

A growing body of evidence confirms that this effect is not fleeting: a study by the University of California, Berkeley, led by Joel Wong and Joshua Brown (2017), found that individuals who wrote gratitude letters showed significantly better mental health outcomes even 12 weeks after the exercise, regardless of whether the letters were sent.

In parallel, Emmons and McCullough (2003) demonstrated that individuals who kept a gratitude journal for just 10 weeks reported increased optimism, better sleep, and more physical activity.

Furthermore, gratitude has been shown to enhance the neural modulation of the prefrontal cortex, which reduces symptoms of depression and anxiety by strengthening pathways that suppress negative emotions.

According to McCraty & Childre (2004), gratitude also reduces cortisol levels—the primary stress hormone—improving cardiovascular health and emotional resilience. At the structural level, researchers like Zahn et al. (2014) have found that individuals who frequently feel gratitude show increased gray matter volume in the right inferior temporal gyrus, which plays a key role in interpreting social signals and emotional meaning.

As UCLA’s Mindfulness Awareness Research Center puts it, “Gratitude changes the neural structures of the brain,” reshaping how we perceive and engage with the world. ”

Ultimately, gratitude doesn’t just feel good—it rewires the brain toward greater emotional intelligence, social connection, and resilience, offering a neuropsychological foundation for a healthier and more fulfilling life.

NOT JUST SCIENCE, BIBLICAL AS WELL. ONE DAY SCIENCE WILL ALIGN ITSELF FULLY WITH CREATION!

Gratitude Transforms Anxiety into Peace Bible verses to help us through our daily life and life in General

Philippians 4:6-7
“Do not be anxious about anything, but in every situation, by prayer and petition, with thanksgiving, present your requests to God. And the peace of God, which transcends all understanding, will guard your hearts and your minds in Christ Jesus.”

Gratitude Shifts Perspective and Brings Joy

1 Thessalonians 5:16-18
“Rejoice always, pray continually, give thanks in all circumstances; for this is God’s will for you in Christ Jesus.”

Gratitude Leads to God’s Presence

Psalm 100:4
“Enter his gates with thanksgiving and his courts with praise; give thanks to him and praise his name.”

Gratitude Transforms Hardship into Growth

James 1:2-4
“Consider it pure joy, my brothers and sisters, whenever you face trials of many kinds, because you know that the testing of your faith produces perseverance. Let perseverance finish its work so that you may be mature and complete, not lacking anything.”

Gratitude Deepens Our Relationship with God

Colossians 3:16-17
“Let the message of Christ dwell among you richly as you teach and admonish one another with all wisdom through psalms, hymns, and songs from the Spirit, singing to God with gratitude in your hearts. And whatever you do, whether in word or deed, do it all in the name of the Lord Jesus, giving thanks to God the Father through him.”

Gratitude Opens Our Eyes to God’s Blessings

Ephesians 5:20
“Always giving thanks to God the Father for everything, in the name of our Lord Jesus Christ.”

Gratitude Is an Act of Worship

Hebrews 12:28
“Therefore, since we are receiving a kingdom that cannot be shaken, let us be thankful, and so worship God acceptably with reverence and awe.”

Gratitude Leads to Wholeness and Healing

Luke 17:15-19 (The healing of the ten lepers)
“One of them, when he saw he was healed, came back, praising God in a loud voice. He threw himself at Jesus’ feet and thanked him… Then he said to him, ‘Rise and go; your faith has made you well.'”

Gratitude in Scripture is often a catalyst for profound change. Below, the examples are organized by the type of transformation experienced – Emotional, Spiritual, Physical, and Social – with each verse or passage quoted and explained.

Emotional Transformation (Anxiety to Peace, Sadness to Joy)

• Philippians 4:6–7 – “Do not be anxious about anything, but in everything by prayer and supplication with thanksgiving let your requests be made known to Godbiblehub.com. And the peace of God, which surpasses all understanding, will guard your hearts and your minds in Christ Jesus”biblehub.com. Transformation: A thankful posture in prayer turns anxiety into peace. Paul teaches that when we present our worries to God with gratitude, God’s transcendent peace will calm our hearts and mindsgotquestions.org. The act of thanking God, even as we petition Him, shifts our focus from troubles to trust, resulting in inner peace replacing fear.

• Psalm 30:11–12 – “You have turned for me my mourning into dancing; you have loosed my sackcloth and clothed me with gladness… O Lord my God, I will give thanks to you forever”biblehub.combiblehub.com. Transformation: David expresses that God transformed his sadness into joy (“mourning into dancing”). In response, David’s heart overflows with thanksgiving. Gratitude here is both a reaction to God’s deliverance and a means of fully embracing joy. By vowing to thank God forever, David shows how thankfulness sustains the joy that replaced his sorrow. His praise-filled gratitude cements the emotional transformation from grief to rejoicing.

Spiritual Transformation (Deeper Faith and Relationship with God)

• Luke 17:15–19 – One of the ten lepers, after being healed, “turned back, and with a loud voice glorified God, and fell down on his face at Jesus’ feet, giving Him thanks”biblehub.com. In response, “Jesus said to him, ‘Rise and go; your faith has made you well’”biblehub.com. Transformation: Gratitude was central to this man’s spiritual healing. All ten were cured physically, but only the thankful Samaritan received Jesus’ affirmation of saving faith. His thankful return to praise Jesus indicated a heart change and deeper faith. Jesus implied that this man gained something more – a spiritual wholeness: “There was an extra healing for this tenth leper… The other lepers had whole bodies, but sick hearts.”enduringword.com In other words, his grateful faith not only cleansed his body but also brought salvation and a restored relationship with God, whereas the others missed that deeper transformation.

• Colossians 2:6–7 – “So then, just as you received Christ Jesus as Lord, continue to live your lives in Him, rooted and built up in Him, strengthened in the faith as you were taught, and overflowing with thankfulness.”askaboutmyfaith.com Transformation: Thankfulness is portrayed as a byproduct of and catalyst for spiritual growth. As believers deepen their roots in Christ, their faith grows stronger and is marked by abundant gratitudeaskaboutmyfaith.com. This suggests that practicing thankfulness reinforces our faith. A grateful heart keeps us mindful of God’s goodness and sovereignty, drawing us into a closer walk with God. Thus, gratitude leads to a transformed spiritual life – one of deeper faith, steadiness in Christ, and continual awareness of God’s presence.

• Psalm 50:23 – “The one who offers thanksgiving as his sacrifice glorifies Me; to one who orders his way rightly I will show the salvation of God!”biblehub.com. Transformation: Here God promises that a thankful worshiper will see salvation. Offering thanks honors God and “prepares his way so that I will show God’s salvation”biblehub.com. This implies that gratitude opens the heart to God’s saving work. In a spiritual sense, a grateful attitude “orders” our life correctly before God, leading to a greater experience of His salvation and deliverance. In sum, thankfulness paves the way for a transformed heart that knows God’s saving power more intimately.

Physical Transformation (Healing, Provision, Protection)

• John 6:11 – “Jesus then took the loaves, and when He had given thanks, He distributed them to those who were seated… so also the fish, as much as they wanted.”biblehub.com Transformation: Jesus demonstrates gratitude before the miracle of feeding the 5,000. His giving of thanks to God preceded the multiplication of the loaves and fish, providing abundant provision for the hungry crowd. This shows thankfulness leading to a tangible transformation of circumstances – from lack to plenty. The simple act of thanking God for the little they had invited God’s power to supply the physical needs of thousandsflbchurch.org. Our example is that faithful thanks, even in scarcity, can unleash God’s provision.

• Jonah 2:9–10 – “But I, with the voice of thanksgiving, will sacrifice to You… Salvation comes from the Lord. And the Lord commanded the fish, and it vomited Jonah onto dry land.”biblehub.com Transformation: Inside the great fish, Jonah offered a prayer of grateful praise, even before his rescue: “With shouts of grateful praise, I will sacrifice to you… Salvation comes from the Lord”biblehub.com. Immediately after this thanksgiving proclamation, God delivered Jonah, commanding the fish to release him. Jonah’s gratitude in the darkest place preceded a dramatic physical deliverance from death. This illustrates how an attitude of thankfulness can invite God’s saving power into dire circumstances – turning near tragedy into rescue.

• Daniel 6:10, 22 – “[Daniel] got down on his knees three times a day and prayed and gave thanks before his God, as he had done previously.” (Daniel 6:10) Despite a royal ban on prayer, Daniel continued his habitual gratitude toward God. Later, after being thrown into the lions’ den, he emerged unharmed, declaring, “My God sent His angel and shut the lions’ mouths, and they have not harmed me” (Daniel 6:22). Transformation: Daniel’s unwavering thankfulness brought about divine protection. His grateful prayers demonstrated trust in God above all, and God miraculously saved him from deadly lions. Even the pagan king recognized God’s power: “He rescues and He saves”thewriteconversation.blogspot.com. Thus, in Daniel’s story, thankfulness under trial led to a powerful transformation of impending death into deliverance – a testimony to God’s protective intervention.

• Acts 16:25–26 – “About midnight Paul and Silas were praying and singing hymns to God… and suddenly there was a great earthquake, so that the foundations of the prison were shaken. And immediately all the doors were opened and everyone’s bonds were unfastened.”flbchurch.org Transformation: In this instance of praise (an expression of gratitude) amid suffering, God intervened with a physical miracle. Paul and Silas’s thankful worship turned a prison into a place of freedom – literally opening doors and breaking chains. Their gratitude to God despite wounds and confinement led to an earthquake that transformed their situation from captivity to liberty. This not only freed them physically but also set the stage for the jailer’s conversion (a spiritual change), showing how thankfulness can trigger God’s power to heal, protect, and save.

Social Transformation (Reconciliation, Favor, Influence)

• Acts 27:35–36 – Facing a storm at sea, “Paul took bread and gave thanks to God in the presence of all… then he broke it and began to eat. Then they all were encouraged and ate some food themselves.”biblehub.com Transformation: Paul’s public expression of gratitude during a crisis had a profound influence on those around him. His calm thankfulness to God for the meal (despite the impending shipwreck) lifted the others from despair to hope. All 276 passengers “took heart” and followed his example of eatingbiblehub.com. The social atmosphere on the ship shifted from panic to encouragement. Paul’s thankfulness instilled confidence that God would deliver them, demonstrating how one person’s grateful faith can positively transform a whole group’s outlook and unity.

• Acts 2:46–47 – In the early church, believers met together “with glad and sincere hearts, praising God,” and as a result they were “enjoying the favor of all the people. And the Lord added to their number daily those who were being saved.”biblehub.com Transformation: Corporate gratitude and praise produced a social impact in the community. The first Christians’ joyful, thankful worship fostered unity among themselves and earned them favor with outsiders. Their gratitude to God was contagious, drawing others to them. Scripture notes that this environment of praise and thankfulness led to continual growth of the church, as more people were being saved dailybiblehub.combiblehub.com. In other words, a culture of thankfulness in the community helped bring about reconciliation between individuals and God, and also gave the believers a positive reputation, transforming their social standing and influence in society.

• 2 Chronicles 20:21–22 – “Jehoshaphat appointed those who were to sing to the Lord and praise Him… As they began to sing and praise, the Lord set ambushes against the [enemy]… and they were defeated.” Transformation: Here praise and thanks became a “weapon” that led to a national victory and peace. Judah’s army marched into battle thanking God for His love, and God turned the enemies against each otherflbchurch.orgbiblehub.com. This brought deliverance without Judah fighting at all. The social/national transformation was twofold: fear gave way to faith among God’s people, and neighboring nations stood in awe. This example shows gratitude to God helping reconcile and unite a people, while also granting them favor and influence over surrounding nations who witnessed God’s power.

Each of these examples underscores a principle: thankfulness is often the key that unlocks God’s transformative work. Emotional turmoil gives way to joy and peace, faith is strengthened, physical needs are met or miracles occur, and even social situations are changed – all when people choose to “give thanks in all circumstances” as God’s will for us (1 Thessalonians 5:18). The Bible consistently demonstrates that a grateful heart isn’t just an appropriate response to God’s grace, but a powerful force that God uses to change lives and situations for the better.

“Wi-Fi Pineapple” is a silly name for a real threat to your cybersecurity. These devices trick you into connecting to fake Wi-Fi networks to intercept data and compromise your privacy. Here’s how to protect against Pineapples and Wi-Fi attacks.

What Is a Wi-Fi Pineapple?

A Wi-Fi Pineapple is a device ostensibly sold for Wi-Fi security auditing, that can also be used to perform real attacks on your devices.

It’s not literally a pineapple (though I’m sure some enterprising hacker out there has at least attempted to house a Raspberry Pi in an actual pineapple fruit), but named because early devices resembled pineapples, with antennas sticking out at all angles much like pineapple leaves.

“Wi-Fi Pineapple” referred to a specific commercial device that automates man-in-the-middle attacks, but these attacks can also be performed with readily available off-the-shelf hardware, including laptops and single board computers.

How Do Wi-Fi Attacks Work?

There are two main types of attacks that use Wi-Fi networks: “evil twin” attacks impersonate known Wi-Fi networks, and trick your device into connecting to them, intercepting data and potentially giving remote access to your device. “Rogue AP (access point)” attacks advertise open networks in the hope that naive or internet-desperate users will connect, with the same outcomes.

Malicious Wi-Fi hotspots are set up in coffee shops, airports, and hotels in an attempt to get you to connect without any technical trickery. Often, simply naming the network something legitimate-sounding (like the name of the hotel) is enough to fool people into thinking it’s the real deal.

For individuals, the primary threat of joining a malicious Wi-Fi network is the interception and recording of the data that is transmitted: emails, social network logins, and other sensitive information (including what websites you visit) can be recorded, and even if encrypted, there’s still the possibility that they can be exploited. Devices with improperly configured firewalls may also be remotely accessed via a compromised network, putting all the data on your device at risk.

For businesses, there is an additional threat: Wi-Fi Pineapples and other malicious devices can be inserted into networks (either using an unguarded Ethernet socket, or by capturing legitimate Wi-Fi credentials and cracking them), granting the attacker unfettered access to internal company infrastructure.

How To Protect Yourself From Pineapples

The best way to protect yourself from a pineapple is to stay out of its way. Avoid public Wi-Fi if you can by tethering to your mobile phone to get online. If you do have to use public Wi-Fi, use a reputable VPN and set it up so that all internet traffic must go through it (known as a “kill switch” in some VPN interfaces). Travel routers are also great for this, allowing you to tether multiple devices or put multiple devices behind a VPN.

While an actual Wi-Fi Pineapple device may be difficult to detect, there are additional measures you can take to protect yourself from fake hotspots and man-in-the-middle attacks in general. Before you connect to a network, check for duplicates or suspicious network names, and avoid scanning QR codes to connect unless they’re in a position they’re unlikely to have been tampered with. You can also disable auto-connect for public networks you’ve joined previously so that you don’t mistakenly reconnect to an impostor.

At home, make sure you change the default Wi-Fi network and administrator passwords and set up a guest network for visitors to use. A separate IoT network for your “smart” devices can also prevent them becoming a vector for network intruders. If you notice similar network names appearing in your neighborhood, consider changing the name of your own network so you don’t accidentally connect to someone else’s.

Generally, you should always heed SSL certificate warnings and unexpected redirects that may indicate your connection has been compromised. Never log into a website or app if you see one of these warnings. If you’re on public Wi-Fi, disconnect, and if you’re at home, start taking steps to diagnose and fix the issue(or call your local tech support). If a website login screen looks different to what you’re used to, you should also be suspicious that your traffic may be being re-routed to a fake site intended to steal your details.

How Businesses Can Prevent Pineapple Attacks

If you run a business that provides Wi-Fi to staff or the public, it’s your responsibility to keep it secure. Give your IT team the time and resources they need to deploy, secure, and maintain infrastructure properly, or risk it falling out of date and being vulnerable to new attacks.

Your network should be regularly scanned for unauthorized devices and rogue Wi-Fi networks that may have been set up to trap employees or customers. If something suspicious is found, hunt down the rogue device (it might be hiding in a dusty corner under a couch in a café, for example) and remove it. Use enterprise-grade Wi-Fi hardware like Unifi that provides client isolation, management tools, and additional security features to make sure your network is under your control.

Tips for Staying Safe in a Dangerous Digital World

Antivirus and personal firewalls also play a key part in staying safe when connecting to public networks. If your device is compromised, they can help detect and block malicious software and activity so that you can secure your accounts and get your device fixed.

There’s also a laundry list of security tips and best practices you should follow to help prevent yourself becoming a victim of cybercrime. Following security advice can be inconvenient (especially when you really need to get online and you’re out of phone reception), but it’s worth it in the long run. source

Craftsmanship · The Gentleman’s Craft

The Mirror & the Patina: A Complete Guide to Glaçage and High-Gloss Shoe Finishing

How to build a glass-like mirror shine on fine Oxfords and Derbys, layer a luminous patina with Saphir cream polishes and Mirror Gloss wax, and repair a scuff so cleanly the eye can never find it.

A pair of made-to-order dress shoes carrying a deep, hand-built patina and a glass-like toe. This is the destination; below is the road. (Image: Wikimedia Commons)

Part One — The Mirror Shine & High-Gloss Patina

First, understand the surface

The Saphir arsenal, and why each product exists

• Saphir Reno’Mat — a powerful stripper. It dissolves old wax, polish, silicone and resin right down to the factory finish. Use it rarely (it is solvent-heavy and can dry leather), and always follow it with conditioner. This is your reset button when a shine has gone cloudy or built up unevenly.
• Saphir Renovateur — the famous mink-oil cleaner-conditioner. It gently lifts dirt and old polish while feeding the leather, keeping it supple so it never cracks. This is the nourishing base; many shiners consider conditioning the single most important step because cracked leather cannot be repaired.
• Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish (Crème 1925) — a beeswax-and-shea-butter cream built on seven waxes plus pine turpentine, in a 75ml jar. It carries a high concentration of pigment, so it nourishes, re-colours, hides fine scuffs and lays down your base colour and patina. It is offered in an unusually wide colour range: The Elegant Oxford’s Crème 1925 listing catalogues 26 shades — 01 Black, 02 Neutral, 03 Light Brown, 04 Brown, 05 Dark Brown, 06 Navy Blue, 07 Saphir Blue, 08 Burgundy, 09 Mahogany, 10 Cognac Brown, 11 Red, 12 Hermes Red, 14 Grey, 15 Dark Grey, 16 Beige, 20 Dark Green, 21 White, 34 Tobacco Brown, 37 Medium Brown, 38 Hazel, 39 Natural Leather, 46 Petroleum Blue, 87 Plum, 89 Cherry Red, 910 Parisian Brown and 917 Light Hazelnut — which is exactly what makes multi-tone patina work possible.
• Saphir Médaille d’Or Mirror Gloss — the finishing wax engineered specifically for glaçage. Per Saphir and its retailers, “Saphir’s Médaille d’Or Mirror Gloss wax polish contains a higher concentration of hard waxes in order to more effortlessly produce a high-gloss, mirror finish. The formulation is based on a mixture of montan, carnauba, and beeswax.” That higher hard-wax load and lower solvent ratio — relative to the standard Pâte de Luxe wax — is precisely why it builds a mirror faster and in fewer layers. The trade-off: it has essentially no nourishing qualities, so it is a finisher only, never a substitute for cream and conditioner underneath.

Watch it done: high-gloss patina & mirror restoration

Kirby Allison of The Hanger Project takes a neglected pair of bespoke Dimitri Gomez shoes through the full Saphir Médaille d’Or regimen to a mirror finish.

The whole order of operations

Step 1 — Dust with a horsehair brush

Step 2 — Strip, only if needed

Step 3 — Condition with Renovateur

Step 4 — Build colour and patina with Pommadier cream

• Lay down a base coat in a shade at or slightly lighter than the leather to preserve its character; lighter creams let the original tone dominate.
• Then antique the extremities: work a darker shade — Dark Brown, Mahogany, or even a touch of Burgundy or a matching-family tone — into the toe and heel, and along the welt and edges, feathering it inward so the colour deepens toward the tips. This gradient is what gives a patina its dimensional, hand-made depth.
• Choose accent colours that flatter the leather’s undertones — warm Cognac, sienna or Burgundy accentuate warm undertones and read as vibrant rather than muddy. Build in thin coats, buffing between each; two or three passes give richer, deeper colour than one heavy smear.

Step 5 — Build the mirror with Mirror Gloss and water (the spit-shine)

Step 6 — Deepen with contrasting or complementary Mirror Gloss colours

Step 7 — The final buff and a water-only pass

A short supplemental demonstration of Mirror Gloss

The Elegant Oxford breaks down the step-by-step use of Saphir Médaille d’Or Mirror Gloss.

Part Two — How to Fix a Scuff on a Glossy Shoe

Watch it done: removing scuffs and scratches

Kirby Allison demonstrates repairing scratches and scuffs on fine leather shoes.

Step 1 — Strip the area

Step 2 — Sand: 1000 up to 3000 grit

Step 3 — Re-colour with Saphir Teinture Française

• Test your colour on a hidden spot first — the inside of the heel or the tongue — because it cannot be undone.
• Apply with a fine artist’s brush or the supplied dauber, in thin coats. Start at the centre of the repair and feather outward, so the heaviest pigment sits on the bare patch and blends into the surrounding colour.
• Let each coat dry roughly an hour. Build two or three thin coats rather than one heavy one until the repair disappears into the field colour. Protect your hands — this dye stains skin instantly.

Step 4 — Re-finish: cream, then Mirror Gloss

Care, Cautions & Longevity

• A mirror shine is fragile by nature. Reserve full glaçage for shoes you baby; expect to touch up the toes before special wear.
• Never mirror-shine a flex point. Keep hard wax on the toe puff and heel counter only.
• Use Reno’Mat sparingly — a few times a year at most — and always re-condition afterward.
• Keep the Mirror Gloss tin tightly closed; it is a hard, low-solvent wax and dries out quickly if left open.
• Rest shoes on cedar trees between wears so the leather — and your finish — keep their shape.

Good Shepherd Media — Stewardship in every detail.

© Good Shepherd Media. Crafted for those who tend what they own.

Ever wonder how to make the worlds favourite soda pop Coca Cola? Very few people know the ‘real’ secret recipe… but there are versions out there hand written by the inventor of Coke – John Pemberton.

Our diy Coca Cola recipe follows his 1886 version.

Glen got the idea to do this back in 2011 from an NPR radio show called ‘This American Life’, but getting the ingredients for Coca Cola wasn’t easy… and still isn’t.

Obviously Coca loaf extract is the biggie in the room – but even Neroli Oil Extract is hard to get; in that it’s so expensive!

So if you are going to set out and make Coca Cola at home, or any Cola recipe at home; there will be some comprises. In the end, even with compromises, the flavor profile of the Coke recipes is so complex that minor variations are hard to detect.

Ingredients:

• 7x Flavour [Use 2 oz flavour (below) to 5 gals syrup (I used 15mL per 19L, or 1.3mL / 1L)]
  • 236 mL (8 oz) high proof food grade alcohol
  • 20 drops (0.5g / 1 mL) Orange Oil
  • 30 drops (0.75g / 1.5 mL) Lemon Oil
  • 10 drops (0.25g / .5 mL) Nutmeg Oil
  • 5 drops (0.125g / .25 mL) Coriander Oil
  • 10 drops (0.25g / .5 mL) Neroli Oil (You can sub Bitter Orange Oil)
  • 10 drops (0.25g / .5 mL) Cinnamon (Cassia Or True Cinnamon) Oil

Original Sugar Syrup Recipe:

• FE Coca (Fluid Extract of Coca) 3 drams USP (10.5 mL)
• Citric Acid 3 oz (85g)
• Caffeine 1 oz (30 mL)
• Sugar 30 #
• Water 2.5 gal
• Lime Juice 2 pints (473 mL)
• Vanilla 1 oz (30 mL)
• Caramel 1.5 oz or more to color

I made 1/8 Original and re-ordered the ingredients to order of use: Water 1.18L Sugar 1.7 Kg Caramel 5.5 mL FE Coca 1.3 mL (not used) Vanilla 3.75 mL Caffeine 3.75 mL Lime Juice 59.12 mL Citric Acid 10.6g

Method: Mix together all of the ingredients of the 7X Flavor. Set this aside in a sealed bottle.

Heat the water sugar and caramel in a large pot.

Stirring continuously, just until sugar is dissolved.

Take off the heat and mix in vanilla, caffeine, lime juice and citric acid. Stir to fully combine.

Add a measured amount of 7X flavoring to the sugar syrup.

Mix with carbonated water at a ratio of one part syrup and 5 parts water.

Here are the links to the original This American Life story:
https://www.thisamericanlife.org/427/…
https://www.thisamericanlife.org/extr…
https://www.thisamericanlife.org/extr…
https://www.thisamericanlife.org/427/…
https://www.thisamericanlife.org/extr…

(Coca-Cola inventor John Pemberton )

While preparing for an episode of This American Life that aired Feb. 11, the radio show’s producers stumbled upon what appears to be the secret recipe for Coca-Cola, printed in a 1979 issue of the Atlanta-Journal Constitution. For 125 years, The Coca-Cola Company has tried its best to keep Coke’s formula shrouded in mystery, especially when it comes to the ingredients of what it calls the drink’s “secret 7X flavor.”

A company spokesperson told Life’s Little Mysteries that This American Life did not manage to concoct “the real thing”, and that the secret recipe is still safe. At least one Coke historian says, however, that yes, this is an authentic recipe for Coke just not the one you enjoy today.

[Click here to see the original 1979 document that leaked the recipe]

For one thing, The Coca-Cola Company has used high-fructose corn syrup rather than sugar in the American version of its soft drink since 1985. That was the year it scrapped the “New Coke” formula which spent only a few months on the market after the company was flooded by consumer protests and reverted to a recipe similar to the one it had used up until 1985 (except switching the sweetener to corn syrup).

According to Pendergrast, current Coca-Cola Classic is also made with phosphoric acid instead of citric acid another change not reflected in the leaked recipe. Small tweaks, yes, but they produce a drink that isn’t quite right by today’s standards.

The evolution of Coca-Cola

Pendergrast believes that this new find is real but also says it’s really no big deal. “I think it’s kind of funny that suddenly there’s this big flap over this when I found the formula in Coca-Cola inventor John Pemberton’s papers and published it in the first edition of my book in 1993,” Pendergrast told us. “This recipe is very similar to the one I found, so I do think it’s probably authentic.” But that doesn’t mean Coca-Cola’s current manufacturing secrets are out. “It’s not the recipe of the drink they’re selling now. The original formula has been changed.”

source

Key Takeaways

• How to clean daily or weakly
• Proper prep is everything: Always remove the temporary factory finish from new VCT before applying wax. This crucial first step ensures your new finish adheres correctly, preventing future peeling, flaking, and cloudiness.
• Layering is key for durability: A professional, long-lasting shine comes from building thin, even coats. Apply a sealer first to prime the floor, then add several layers of wax, allowing each one to dry completely for a stronger finish.
• Create a maintenance plan: The work isn’t over after the final coat. Protect your newly waxed floors with a routine cleaning schedule tailored to your foot traffic, including daily sweeping and periodic buffing to maintain the shine.

Cleaning Vinyl Composition Tile

Choose the best floor sealer and wax

The products you put on your floor are just as important as the tools you use to apply them. For the best results, you’ll want both a floor sealer and a high-quality floor finish, which is often called wax. The sealer acts as a primer, creating a strong bond with the tile and providing a uniform surface for the wax. A good rule of thumb is to apply two thin coats of sealer first. After the sealer is completely dry, you can begin applying the floor finish. Plan on four to six thin coats of a durable wax, like products from Betco or Buckeye, to build up a protective, glossy layer.

How to clean and prepare new VCT floors

Before you even think about applying that first coat of wax, you need to give your new VCT floors some attention. It might seem counterintuitive to clean something that’s brand new, but this step is non-negotiable for a professional finish. New VCT comes with a thin factory finish, a protective coating applied during manufacturing to prevent damage during shipping and installation. This coating is not meant to be a permanent part of your floor; in fact, it actively repels floor wax.

If you apply wax directly over this factory seal, you’ll end up with a finish that peels, yellows, or looks cloudy within weeks. Proper preparation involves completely removing that seal, along with any adhesive residue, dirt, or scuffs left over from the installation process. This creates a clean, porous surface that allows the new sealer and wax to bond correctly. Think of it as priming a wall before you paint. It’s the foundational work that ensures a beautiful, durable, and long-lasting result. Taking the time to properly clean and prepare the surface will save you countless hours and the expense of stripping and refinishing your floors prematurely.

Gather your cleaning products and tools

First things first, let’s get your supplies in order. You don’t need anything too aggressive for this job. In fact, harsh chemicals can damage new VCT, so it’s best to stick with milder solutions. A good quality, pH-neutral floor cleaner is usually the perfect choice. If you’re dealing with a particularly stubborn factory finish, a light degreaser or a very diluted floor stripper (about one part stripper to ten parts water) can also work well.

You will also need a low-speed floor buffer or auto-scrubber with a blue or green cleaning pad, a wet-dry vacuum for removing the slurry, and a clean mop and bucket for rinsing. Having the right equipment makes the job much easier and more effective than trying to scrub by hand.

Clean your floors step-by-step

With your tools ready, it’s time to get cleaning. Start by sweeping or dust-mopping the entire floor to pick up any loose dirt and debris. Next, apply your chosen cleaning solution according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Let it sit for a few minutes to break down the factory finish. Then, use your floor buffer to scrub the entire area thoroughly, working in a systematic pattern to ensure you cover every tile. You’ll see the factory coating and any grime lift away.

Once you’ve scrubbed the floor, use the wet-dry vacuum to remove all the dirty solution. The final cleaning step is a thorough rinse. Mop the floor with clean, cool water to remove any leftover cleaning residue. This is a critical part of our commercial cleaning services, as any remaining film can prevent the wax from adhering properly.

Ensure the floor is completely dry

Patience is key for this final preparation step. Before you even think about opening a container of sealer or wax, the VCT floor must be 100% dry. Any moisture trapped underneath the wax will cause a hazy or cloudy appearance and can lead to peeling and adhesion failure. It’s a common mistake that can ruin an otherwise perfect finish.

Apply the floor sealer

Think of floor sealer as the primer for your VCT. It creates a smooth, non-porous surface for the wax to stick to, ensuring a more even and long-lasting finish. Sealer also protects the tiles themselves from stains and scuffs. You’ll want to apply at least two thin coats for proper coverage. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the product label, as drying times can vary. Some sealers need to cure for a specific period before you can move on to the next step, so patience is key to achieving a professional-grade hard floor cleaning service result.

Applying floor sealer and finish (wax) to Vinyl Composition Tile (VCT) creates a glossy, durable protective layer.

Find the right waxing equipment

To get that professional-grade finish, you’ll need more than just a mop and bucket. Your essential toolkit should include a low-speed floor buffer (around 175 RPM), two separate mop buckets with wringers (one for your cleaning solution and one for clean rinse water), and a dedicated rayon mop head for applying the finish. It’s also crucial to have plenty of “Wet Floor” signs to ensure safety. When it comes to the floor buffer, the pad you choose matters. Opt for soft scrubbing pads like green, blue, or red ones. You should absolutely avoid black pads, as they are far too abrasive for new VCT and can leave deep scratches and black residue behind.

source

FISH PARASITE & NON PARASITE WORMS;
In Aquariums & Ponds
The Index below index breaks down the Worms into their three Phylums:
*Platyhelminthes, *Nematoda, & *Annelida
As well as information about Feeding Worms & Anchor Worms, which are not worms, rather copepod crustaceans.

• Platyhelminthes (Trematodes, Flukes, Fish Lice, Flat worms, Planaria)
  • Treatment of External Flukes, Planaria, etc
• Nematodes (Round Worms); Including Camallanus, Capillari
  • Treatment of Internal Nematodes (& some Internal Trematodes)
  • Suggested Treatments/Preventatives for Both Internal/External
• Annelids (Segmented Worms), Detritus Worms
• Anchor Worms
  • Treatment of Anchor Worms
• Hydra
• Feeding Worms including:
  • White Worms
  • Microworms
  • Walter Worms
  • Vinegar Eels)

Basics, Identification, and TREATMENT in Aquarium and Pond Fish.

Readers should note that ALL these parasites are INTRODUCED, whether by a fish directly or by an intermediate host such as a snail.
If you have had a certain fish for over a year, with no additions or possible intermediate hosts in the last six months, chances are you do not have one of these worms infestations listed. So always look for identifiable evidence of actual worms, and lacking these, utilize all circumstantial evidence to confirm otherwise, including the chances of introduction.

Otherwise, follow any circumstantial evidence that may be pointing to other copycat symptoms which may include internal Aeromonas infections, Ichthyophonus, osmoregulation issues, simple aging/genetics/earlier life trauma that injured internal organs, or quite often poor diet which can cause eventual liver & kidney damage as well as making a fish more susceptible to intestinal Aeromonas infections (which can present in feces like parasitic infections).
The bottom line without introduction in the last few months; what many might think is an internal parasite problem is very likely not and is a much more common Aeromonas bacterial infection (which is all around from the soil to your substrate and does not need introduction into the aquarium) or also quite possible, with the plethora of well marketed fish foods with poor energy levels and poor fiber contents, a nutritional issue.

Suggested Diet for CORRECT energy and fiber levels/content:
Clay Neighbor’s AAP Custom Fish Food

Information is included about non parasite Detritus Worms (commonly seen when an aquarium is cleaned or in aquariums with high bio loads and is an area with much confusion especially on the internet and often mis-identified as PLANARIA (Freshwater). More about Detritus Worms further into the article.

Information about: The Truth about Planaria in Aquariums

For information about “Whirling Disease” caused by the myxozoan parasite “Myxobolus cerebralis”, please refer to this related article from “Aquarium/Pond Answers:
Whirling Disease (Myxobolus cerebralis) in Fish

Before any aquarium/pond fish treatment it is important to know all the steps as often treatment is much more than dumping medication into an aquarium.
Please read this article before ANY aquarium treatment regimen:
Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish

PLATYHELMINTHES:
(Monogenea, Trematodes/Flukes, Planarians)

Platyhelminthes consists of the unsegmented flatworms, which include both free-living and parasitic species.
These worms have bilateral symmetry, and can move by using layers of muscle or by gliding along a slime trail using cilia.
Flatworms lack a circulatory system and complete digestive system, instead flatworms absorb nutrients through their skin and excrete wastes using specialized “flame cells”.
*Flame cells function like a kidney, removing waste materials.

A few flatworms have primitive light-sensing “eyes” that allow them to move either towards or away from light, while other species have different types of sensors on their bodies, including chemical, balance, and water movement receptors. Most species of flatworms reproduce both sexually and asexually.

The trematodes belong to the Animal Kingdom Phylum Platyhelminthes, and are commonly referred to as flukes.
Trematodes usually have flattened bodies, a primitive digestive system, suckers for attachment to their hosts, and are hermaphrodites (an organism that possesses both male and female sex organs).

The Monogenea are the class ectoparasites that infect fish.

Planaria are both marine and freshwater and can be parasitic, but this is generally rare and the few that are, generally are parasitic toward corals, eggs or other stationary “victims”.
See the section on Detritus Worms for more about Planaria since these are all too often confused with Detritus worms even though a completely different Phylum of worms.

INTERNAL TREMATODES:

Internal Flukes generally use intermediate hosts such as snails or other mollusks. The eggs must get into water in order to hatch and be able to infect their first host, a freshwater snail. The fluke develops in the snail and then burrows out to seek the second host which is a freshwater fish. Many species of snail and fish may carry these internal flukes.

– Here is a dissected fish displaying a serious internal Trematodes infection.

GILL FLUKES:

Gill flukes (Dactylogyrus) will appear on the gill filaments as tiny dark spots 0.04-0.08 inches (1-2mm) long.
Gill flukes can infect freshwater and saltwater fish and are found on fish from the wild as well as farmed fish.

These parasites attach to the gills of the fish and feed on mucus, epithelial cells (cells that line the inside of gills and perform the tasks of secretion, absorption, protection, and transcellular transport), and blood from the host.

The pictures above display first a standard microscopic slide of an isolated gill fluke and then to the right a Scanning Electron Microscope view of a gill fluke attached to gill filaments.

It is noteworthy that 100% positive identification with the naked eye is impossible.
Other than scraping the gills (which can be fatal to the fish) and then preparing a slide, your best recourse is an “educated guess” based on redness in the gills (which can be other issues too such as ammonia poisoning burns), and scraping (flashing) of the fish against objects in the aquarium or pond in the area of the gills.
In fact in the absence of this “flashing”, odds are the redness is bacterial (often Columnaris) or inflammation from ammonia poisoning (past or more likely present)

More about Gill Flukes;
Much of the mucus being produced by the fish is in response to the physical injury caused by the parasites.
Damage is physical and inflammatory, with secondary bacterial infections such as septicemia. Small or weak fish may die from the stress of acute infestations.

Gill flukes reproduce via eggs that drop away to hatch in about 2 to 4 days depending upon temperature.

The hatchling Dactylogyrus is ciliated similar to a paramecium. Once a host is found the water-borne Dactylogyrus larvae has eye spots that enable it to swim away from light and burrow into the fishes’ gill cover as the fish respires.
From my experience in a healthy aquarium or pond, even if one or two fish in the aquarium/pond have a large enough parasite infection to be irritated, if the larva fails to find a host, it dies.

However in poorly filtered and/or crowded ponds or in particular aquariums, these conditions increase the likelihood the larva will find a host. Once attached, it may take a week to mature and start producing eggs.
The adult Gill Fluke is assumed to only live 5-10 days.
Improving filtration and over crowding is as important as treatment.

With larger ponds, generally isolating the fish in a tub or small “play pool” is all that is necessary for treatment, assuming crowding and filtration is not a problem or improved.

Common aquarium carriers of gill flukes include: Plecostomus, Otocinclus, Corydoras, Koi, Discus, Characins, livebearers (Poeciliidae), some tetras (Characins) and Barbs (Cyprinidae), and Elephant Nose (Gnathonemus petersi).

For more about Monogeneans Flukes, which are a group of parasites best described as flatworms but are now considered a different class from Trematodes, please see these articles:
*Monogenean Parasites, Marine Fish
*Monogenean Parasites in Fish

FISH LICE (Argulus):

These are often round, flat and green.

They are similar in treatment to flukes and anchor worms. These can be physically removed with tweezers, and then the wound treated with Mebromin, hydrogen peroxide or even Neosporin followed by a 30 minute Methylene Blue Bath.
Reference: Fish Baths; Basic Ingredients, Methylene Blue

MARINE FLATWORMS:
The Acoel flatworms commonly observed are “Redbugs” or “Red Planaria”, of which the genus Convolutriloba is a member as in the picture to the left of Convolutriloba retrogemma.

While Convolutriloba retrogemma are often blamed for coral attacks, in reality this is rare. Rather, they breed rapidly and reproduce either sexually, laying eggs or by the asexual processes of fission/ budding where the worm simply splits up, producing a bud that forms a new worm.
Therein lies the problem: the flatworms crawl along the coral in search of food and, as they rapidly multiply, they block the coral’s light as well as hamper nematocyst capture of the coral’s prey. The coral is thus deprived of symbiotic nutrient nourishment, as well as planktonic food, and slowly starves to death.

The use of “Reef Dip” or a freshwater dip of corals or similar is the best prevention for these flatworms.

Where to purchase: *SeaChem Reef Dip

Treatments for External Flukes or Worms (including Flatworms/Planaria):

• • Clout/Dylox
    Clout, Dylox (AAP Dyacide) and other “in tank” treatments are often more effective when accompanied by baths or dips, as well, if a parasite such as a camalanus worm is exposed, treatment is often more effective.Where to purchase:
    AAP Dyacide (Dylox)For marine applications, I generally will treat twice with a water change and carbon treatment in between.
    ALL invertebrates should be removed during treatment (Corals, Shrimp, Anemones, etc.).
    Prior to re-introduction to the treated aquarium, all corals should be dipped in pH stabilized freshwater for 25 to 45 seconds.
    A standard dose of Potassium Permanganate or AAP Dyacide or Clout can be added to this dip for extra measure.

    This can also be used for nematodes, camalanus worms, or internal protozoans; although sometimes multiple dosages may be required.

• • PraziPro
    This can be used as either a bath (as well as mixed with Methylene Blue) or ‘in-tank. treatment.
    This is highly effective when used as directed for external parasites
    Mild effectiveness for internal parasites*Methylene Blue from AAP
  • Trichlorfon

• AAP Potassium Permanganate

NEMATODES:
(Round Worms)

Nematodes, also known as Roundworms, are a very common phyla of animals of which there are many parasitic forms. Nematodes are one of the simplest animal groups to have a complete digestive system, with a separate orifice for food intake and waste excretion unlike the Trematodes mentioned above. Reproduction is usually sexual and males are usually smaller than females.

Parasitic Nematodes can have quite complicated life cycles, moving between several different hosts or even locations in the host’s body.

If the Nematode has a direct life cycle, then it does not need an intermediate host and infection can spread directly from one fish to another by means of a fish ingesting of eggs or larvae.

If the Nematode has an indirect life cycle the nematode eggs or larvae enter an invertebrate intermediate host (such as copepod, tubiflex worm, or insect larva) or a fish intermediate host (these fish are then consumed by larger carnivorous fish) prior to being eaten by or entering the final host fish.

Indications (Diagnosis) of Nematode Infestation:
A method of diagnosing a nematode problem is generally just a guess. This is particularly plausible when a fish is eating regularly yet continues to lose weight, metabolizing body musculature to stay alive.
This is usually seen as thinning along the back on either side of the dorsal fin. This often results in a well-fed fish starving to death.

White feces can also be an identification tool, however this can be misleading as to a true Nematode (worm) infestation, as long thin white feces along with bloating are just as often an indicator of a bacterial infection; generally Aeromonas or possibly a digestive issue.
This can also be an indicator of a combination bacterial (again Aeromonas) and protozoan Flagellate infection, usually Hexamita.
Loss of appetite along with the other mentioned symptoms (such as thick white feces, along with some bloating on one side or both of the fish) can also be an indicator of a Nematode infection, especially a Eustrongylid nematode infestation.

Much More Information:
Gram negative, Aeromonas Infections in Fish

Generally a more positive identification of internal Nematodes is a thread like worm protruding from the anus.

True identification begins with a microscope (& often requires a necropsy of the fish after death).
Nematodes are smooth, cylindrical, relatively long worms, which distinguishes them from the flatter, segmented tapeworms and from the wider and shorter Monogenea Flukes.

Here is a list of some other general symptoms of nematode infections (besides the above already mentioned symptoms):

• Body Hemorrhaging
• Lumps or nodules on outer body (epidermis)
• Bloated or the opposite, wasting of the abdomen (the fish may continue to eat or show otherwise normal behavior).
  It is noteworthy that bloating in particular is generally a better indicator of a gut infection such as caused by Aeromonas Bacteria and/or a poorly functioning digestive system (which could also be the result of poor fish osmoregulation)
• Cysts, Inflammation, or Granulomas

A Few Common Nematodes:

Capillaria/Capillari.

These are probably the most common nematode due to the relatively non-complex life cycle and ease of transmission, as Capillaria spread from one fish to another by ingestion of infective larvae that live in the intestines of cichlids such as angelfish, discus, gouramis, tetras, cyprinids (and some other fish as well).
This is often referred to as “Gourami Disease” due to the frequency of infection in Gouramis

Symptoms common to this particular nematode include a bulge in the lower abdomen near the vent, or Capillari worms protruding from the anus.

Eustrongylid nematodes.

These are found in muscle within the body cavity or encapsulated on the liver and other organs. These nematodes can affect a number of different species such as guppies, gar, danios, angelfish and other cichlids.

Affected fish typically have bloated abdomens (similar to dropsy of bacterial origin), as these nematodes often migrate into the body cavity and can be quite large.
Unfortunately the treatment of these Nematodes usually fails due to the location of the larvae within the coelomic cavity or in the muscle of the fish, which is often misdiagnosed as bacterial Dropsy leading to the somewhat misleading statements that “Dropsy is un-treatable” when in fact the problem was NEVER Dropsy!

Reference: Dropsy in Fish

Camallanus Nematodes.

These infect the gastrointestinal tract of live-bearers, cichlids and other species of freshwater fish.

Symptoms (but not necessarily proof of infection):

• Usually, the first CLEAR indication of infection is a red worm extending from the anus of a fish (sometimes mistaken for feces).
• Scoliosis; Lateral curvature of the spine
• The lower part of the fish’ body is hollow and wasted
• Parasite infested fish show very slow or no growth, as parasite is taking the food.
• Fish is fading away, looks as if it is starving to death.

The life cycle of Camallanus worms passes through three phases;

1. A free-living stage
2. A series of molts during which time the worms infect an intermediate host (crustaceans such as Cyclops and Gammarus)
3. Then another molt that takes place in the final host/fish.

If the intermediate host crustacean is eaten by a fish, then the third-stage larvae becomes active and will start feeding again.
After two more molts, it will become a sexually mature male or female adult worms.
These are the distinctive red worms aquarists see protruding from the vents of infected aquarium fish.

One exception is the Camallanus cotti which has the ability to skip this stage, if a suitable crustacean host is not available. However there still needs to be a pathway to infection, which still often can rule out reinfection. Consumption of an infected fish by a tank mate or ingestion of feces produced by infected fish are possible modes of continuing the life cycle and thus reinfection. Removal of dead fish and other methods of consumption along with isolation and quick clean up of any and all feces should break this life cycle from my experience.

TREATMENTS for Internal Trematodes and Nematodes:

Before you treat, I suggest reading this article also from the “Aquarium/Pond Answers library:
Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish

The above article is very helpful in that often even milder mediations are much more effective when ALL PARAMETERS are spot on.
In particular, I have seen the relatively mild Metronidazole/Praziquantel combination work well for Camallanus worms when parameter are spot on (this includes a balanced Redox by keeping oxidative stress as low as possible) and not work at all when these are not.
This why we need to be careful with anecdotal advice when it comes to statements that “Metronidazole/Praziquantel will not work”, as when we dig deeper as per my long time experience with fish treatments, we will often find that there is a reason the treatment failed, and it was not the medication.

• • Metronidazole is a mild treatment parasitic worm treatment that is most effective for single cell parasites such as flagellates (examples include Giardia), but it can be even more effective when combined with SeaChem ParaGuard in tank and/or then used as a medicated food soak combined with Praziquantel (do not use ParaGaurd as part of the fish food soak).
    The use of Metronidazole has the added benefit in that it is effective for anaerobic internal infections, common to the gut.Reference:
    *Aquarium Medications; Food Delivery of Medications
    *What Are the Treatments for Intestinal Parasites in Humans (while not aimed at fish treatment, much more research goes into human worm treatment, so still worth a read)Recommended Product Sources that support this FREE Information and the Aquarium/Pond Keeping Hobby::
    *AAP Metronidazole
    *AAP ParaGuard

• • Praziquantel; this product works in part by paralyzing the parasites, thus allowing the host to more easily shed the parasite both internally and externally.
    Generally only one treatment is needed (if fed, two to three times in one day), although re-treatment 5-7 days days later of a product containing Praziquantel is required.
    Praziquantel along with Metronidazole are a couple of the safer medications you can use for your fish to treat parasites, both internal & external (& more effective when combined).
  • AAP General Cure
    General Cure (which contains Praziquantel, Metronidazole) can be used as a medicated fish food soak for internal parasites.
    Jungle/Tetra Parasite Guard is similar (it contains Praziquantel, Metronidazole, Acriflavin, Diflubenzuron).
    Of the two, General Cure is the better choice since Acriflavin & Diflubenzuron are intended only for external parasites (of which this is the better product for external parasites/worms).General Cure can be used as a medicated fish food soak by using 1/2 a packet for an average 60 gallon bio load medicated fish preparation. Fish food should be soaked for 15 minutes. After soak, pour entire contents into aquariumRecommended Product Source that support this FREE Information and the Aquarium/Pond Keeping Hobby:
    *AAP General Cure

• • Levamisol Once one of the more popular treatments for nematodes, but increasingly harder to find due to many safety concerns which includes the fact it is much more dangerous than others listed here when over dosed or even used normally as it can cause serious liver and blood issues. Even in doses needed to treat internal worms, “Neutropenia” may result which then results in the fish being more susceptible to bacterial infections.
    Levamisol is best used as part of a blend, such as in AAP Discomed where overdosing is nearly impossible since it is part of synergistic blend, otherwise use it as a treatment as a last resort due to the problems it can cause with the fish immune system, especially if over dosed accidentally.
    AAP Discomed contains Levamisol, Neomycin, Magnesium Sulfate, NaCl, & PiperazineRecommended Resource: AAP Discomed (Fish Food Soak) This is the strongest yet safest internal parasite fish food soak medication available anywhere! This is a product NO SERIOUS AQUARIUM KEEPER SHOULD BE WITHOUT IN THEIR ARSENAL!See this article for use and cautions:
    Aquatic Medications #3; chemical and parasite treatments

    Treat with Levimisol once followed by a water change and treatment in 3-7 days. Treat a third time after 1-2 weeks following the second treatment.
    Be careful, as Levamisol can kill many worms quickly, which with most internal nemtode infections is not an issue since they are not generally widespread. HOWEVER with use for widespread worm infestations, this can be a problem which is why this should NEVER be used to kill Detritus Worms (often misidentified as Planaria)

    Here is a source for Levamisol:
    https://www.inkmkr.com/Fish/ItemsForSale.html

• • Piperazine An especially good choice for Capillari and a safer choice than Levimisol or Fenbendazole if you can find it. It is also more effective than Praziquantel.
    The reason Piperazine is safer is that it works via anthelmintic action (used to expel or destroy parasitic worms in the gastro-intestinal tract).
    The mode of action is generally by paralysing parasites, which allows the host body to easily remove or expel the invading organism.
    For this reason, Piperazine is gentler on the fish and aquatic environment.
    Reference: Aquarium Medications Part 3; PiperazineRecommended Resource for Fresh Piperazine:
    *AAP Piperazine/Pipzine
    *AAP Discomed (Fish Food Soak)

• • Fenbendazole; Commonly sold as a dog de-wormer and has a wide range of internal worms it will kill. It works by interrupting the parasites’ cellular transport and metabolism.
    Fenbendazole can be mixed with fish foods, but often flavor enhancers such as AAP Garlic Guard are needed to hide this medication so that fish will accept the food “spiked” with Fenbendazole.
    Do not combine with PraziquantelDo not use if your fish has any bleeding issues, as Fenbendazole can inhibit red blood cell production

• • Combinations such as the above mentioned AAP General Cure that have Metronidazole as an ingredient as this medication is often effective for secondary bacterial infections such as Aeromonas and even better for possible Hexamita infestations of the gut, as witnessed in a white feces diagnosis where the aquarist is unsure of whether this is a worm or Aeromonas/Hexamita infection.
    Adding Neomycin to the Fish Food soak may help with secondary infections and/or gut infections while adding Nitrofurazon or even stronger AAP Spectrogram to external “in-tank” or hospital/bath treatments can help with secondary infections, especially Aeromonas infections.Recommended Product Sources:
    *AAP Discomed (contains Levamisol, Neomycin, Magnesium Sulfate, NaCl, & Piperazine)
    *AAP Yellow Powder- Premium Nitrofurazone
    *AAP Spectrogram; Kanamycin/Nitrofurazone Wide Spectrum Combination
    *AAP Neomycin

• • Epsom Salts; While not a treatment, the use of pure Epsom Salts (do not use scented products such as Lavender Epsom Salt) can help with passage of the parasite when used in a bath and or a fish food soak.For a fish food soak (along with medications such as General Cure), I suggest 1/8- 1/4 tsp of epsom salt along for every ounce of food prepared.The addition of AAP/SeaChem Garlic Guard to this fish food preparation can further help with palatability.
    Recommended Product Source:
    *AAP/SeaChem Garlic Guard

For BOTH Internal and External Nematode/Trematode Treatment

• • Medicated 30 minute baths using Methylene Blue, Aquarium Salts, as well as the antibiotics such as Metronidazole or Nitrofurazone at double normal recommended tank strength; This will aid in absorption of medications and osmoregulation that is VERY important, especially with internal parasite infestations which are difficult to treat even with strong medications.
    The Methylene Blue will be absorbed and aid in oxygen delivery although it is only mildly effective against the parasites, Methylene Blue aids in the fish’ general health.

• • A good follow up treatment as well as preventative which also improves fish immune resistance via improved Redox Balance (lowering oxidative stress) would be an AAP Medicated Wonder Shell.
    The AAP Medicated Wonder Shell is also a good part of a everything but the kitchen sink type treatment when it is not clear whether the problem is nematodes or an internal gut infectionsIf a medicated fish food soak is being used, the Medicated Wonder Shell would also be useful as an in-tank treatment to fight infection and improve fish immunity.Product Resource:
    AAP Medicated Wonder Shells

• Berberine (Oregon Grape Root Powder): While a new use in the aquarium hobby, growing evidence for the use of Berberine best found in Oregon Grape Root is growing in human studies. Since more funding is available for human studies, this often makes these studies more valuable and accurate.
  “Berberine has demonstrated significant antimicrobial activity against a variety of organisms including bacteria, viruses, fungi, protozoans, helminths, and chlamydia. Currently, the predominant clinical uses of berberine include bacterial diarrhea, intestinal parasite infections, and ocular trachoma infections.”
  Reference: Berberine; US Library of MedicineAnother benefit of the use of Oregon Grape Root as a source of Berberine is this herbal treatment can work with many other standard treatments such as Metronidazole to improve effectiveness.Current suggested use is 400 mg of power per 10 gallons of water and used as a additional treatment in aquariums and fish baths, not the sole treatment.

  Further Reference: Aquarium Medications Part 4; Oregon Grape Root

Recommended Product Sources that support this FREE Information and the Aquarium/Pond Keeping Hobby::
*AAP Yellow Powder- Premium Nitrofurazone
*Methylene Blue from AAP
*AAP Medicated Wonder Shells

How to perform a Medicated Fish Bath:
*Medicated Fish Baths; Dips, Swabs

Salt is advised not only in the baths at 1-2 teaspoons per gallon, but also in the display or quarantine tank at 1 teaspoon per gallon to 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons as this will also aid in mucous generation and the movement of fluids inside the body cavity (osmoregulation).
Correct Calcium Levels are also important for osmoregulation that will aid the fish in “battling” a parasite infestation (especially internal).

Also see these article for more about medicated baths & fish quarantine:
“Aquarium Disease Prevention; Quarantine, Baths”

Prevention is the BEST treatment for Nematodes, Marine Flatworms, and Flukes, especially Internal Nematodes

This is accomplished by regular water changes, the purchase of fish from a known quality resource, removal of the final host (in the case of Eustrongylid nematodes; birds and pond sanitation), or any intermediate hosts (tubiflex worms or other oligochaetes).

It is noteworthy that many (if not most) fish farms are located OUTDOORS, so the spread of nematodes via intermediate and finals hosts is easier than one may think. Knowing your source for your pet fish is very helpful as often many internal nematodes will not show symptoms in fish for over 30 days after arrival in your aquarium.

A final note as to treatment of nematodes in particular is that nematode infestations are generally internal, making treatment and medication “delivery” very difficult. More so with Eustrongylid nematodes since they are found in difficult to deliver mediation internal body locations.
My point here is, hopefully one can start treatment early or prevent an infestation altogether, however from my experience this is not a “real world” expectation as I have often failed to detect and treat with success (assuming it was treatable in the first place), so one should not be too hard on failures in treating internal Nematodes, as I have had my share of both successes and failures even under the good care.

Annelids “Segmented Worms” – Including:
DETRITUS WORMS

The annelids are the phylum of segmented worms which include earthworms. Most annelids are NOT purely aquatic in fresh water; the annelids found in freshwater are all oligochaetes (which means “few-bristled”) and are not very important in the freshwater ecology as are their marine cousins, the polychaetes (which means “multi-bristled”).
All the oligochaete worms are hermaphrodites (an organism that posses both male and female genitalia) and many are nearly microscopic.

Detritus Worms (from the group of worms called Oligochaetes, sub group naidid worms) are often misidentified in the aquarium hobby as Planaria without close inspection by many internet articles such as about.com.

Many of these worms are accidentally introduced by live plants, gravel (especially in the case of common Detritus Worms) live fish foods, and even brought in with fish transfers.
(Click picture to enlarge)

Many not familiar with Detritus worms will label these as everything from midge larvae, Planaria, to baby earthworms, of which none is true. They are very common and most often seen during vacuuming and other cleaning procedures.

These worms generally are not a problem and often go un-noticed living in the gravel aiding in breakdown of wastes, however high numbers of particular species can indicate low oxygen levels, cloudy water, poor Redox and low filter productivity.
This very often suggests some degree of pollution caused by poor cleaning procedures, over crowding, over feeding and poor filtration.

When the population explodes these worms often leave the gravel and cling to the sides, usually close to the surface as oxygen depletion due to the cumulative affects of increased organic mulm (often resulting with pH/KH drops, higher nitrates, poor Redox Balance), cloudy water and simply too many Detritus worms. This then drives them from the oxygen poor gravel where they normally hide/exist.
It is when these worms are crawling up the sides that most aquarium keepers take note, often not realizing that these worms have been present for some time living quietly in the aquarium substrate before a population explosion and often subsequent oxygen depletion drives them into the open.

Do NOT make the mistake of treating with Levamisol to rid your tank of Detritus Worms (aka false Planaria) as so many forums and websites advice.
I know for a fact that the die off can kill off many fish and that simply taking care of the cause of the worm population “explosion” will remedy this issue!!!

Please reference these sources for even more identification (and further information so as to dispel the internet aquarium myth that these are Planaria):
Detritus Worms/Planaria in Aquariums
The above article is THE article to read on the subject!

Other Reference:
*Aquatic Worms

“Detritus Worms” include these:

As stated earlier, control of these detritus (composting) worms is brought about by good vacuuming procedures, proper feeding, good filtration, lowering bio load, and addition of fish that will eat these.

This is a Planaria (a flat worm, not an Annelid)!
(click to enlarge)

ANCHOR WORMS:

Anchor Worms as seen to the left are a genus of copepod crustaceans (Species Lernea) that are parasitic to freshwater fish, especially coldwater fish often raised in ponds such as Goldfish.
I also have personally caught Trout that have been covered in Anchor Worms, but it is noteworthy that these trout were in a small, man made lake that by late spring is too warm for Trout to live in.
The point about the trout is applicable to the many anchor worm infestations I have dealt with in goldfish, in that it was much more common in warm or warming months where water temperatures are higher than is best for goldfish, @ 80F or higher.

The Anchor Worm is not always noticeable as pictured here, often it starts out as a small red sore. These red sores then multiply followed by small thread like protrusions that are the anchor worm.

Other common symptoms include frequent rubbing/flashing, inflammation on the body of the fish, and generally lethargy of the fish such as sitting on the bottom or floating on the surface of the water.

TREATMENT:
Best treatment is to use tweezers to remove the worm from the fish.
The fish should be gently cradled in the palm of your hand so as to not injure the fish as a net can. After removal, the wound SHOULD/MUST BE treated/swabbed with Merbromin/AAP Wound Control (Best to prevent an infection), Methylene Blue (2nd choice), or Hydrogen Peroxide (3rd choice).

If the Anchor Worm cannot be removed (or you are uncomfortable doing so), this is especially true with very small anchor worms, a direct swab of 50% water Potassium Permanganate & water directly on the worm should be performed followed by a rinse then a swab with Merbromin (AAP Wound Control).

With either procedure, a bath should also follow that consists of AAP Nitrofuracin Green, OR Methylene Blue, Salt, Nitrofurazone, & possibly Metronidazole.

Recommended Product Sources that support this FREE Information and the Aquarium/Pond Keeping Hobby::
*AAP Wound Control (Merbromin)
*AAP Nitrofuracin Green- Full Spectrum Treatment
*AAP Yellow Powder- Premium Nitrofurazone
*AAP MethyBlu PREMIUM Methylene Blue (Best version)
*Kordon Methylene Blue from AAP
*AAP Potassium Permanganate (Clear Water)

For serious infections and to prevent reinfestation, an in tank treatment with AAP Dyacide or Clout (Dimilin is similar), OR Pimpzine OR a Super Ich Plus (or ParaGuard, but not as strong)/Furan 2 combination can be used, OR General Clear, OR PraziPro (this is in order of strength).

AAP Dyacide or Clout (Clout is no longer available) are about the only treatments that will kill the Anchor worms while still actually on the fish, otherwise most medications kill Anchor Worms in the free swimming stage.

If a secondary infection is also present (which is common), such as red sores, a combination of AAP ParaGuard and Triple Sulfa OR AAP Furan 2 is often the best choice (beside the before mentioned physical removal and baths)

As part of the lifecycle, the female anchor worm will release her eggs into the water when they are about to hatch into free swimming larvae. These larvae will swim about for up to a week looking for a fish to attach itself to. If they don’t attach themselves in this period of time they will die off. So interrupting this is generally essential for a full “cure”.
This means healthy aquarium conditions, including optimizing ALL water parameters along with water changes.
A medicated fish food using your current fish food soaked with AAP Discomed may help further along with AAP Pipzine, Prazipro or General Cure in the aquarium (Pipzine being the first choice).
More about optimum aquarium care: AQUARIUM DISEASE PREVENTION; Steps to a Healthy Aquarium & Sick Fish

Beware of non aquarium professionals often in social media forums that will recommend herbal products such as Microbe-Lift Herbtana & Artemiss. There are no published ingredients from these discount seller products and more importantly these products negatively affect your aquarium’s Redox balance which would be the last thing you would want to do with a fish suffering from an Anchor Worm infestation especially one that is accompanied by sores and/or Septicemia.
Reference: Aquarium Medications Part 4; Microbe-Lift Herbtana & Artemiss

As well, beware of discounters such as Amazon selling products containing diflubenzuron (Dimilin).
With diflubenzuron, fish have been shown to accumulate diflubenzuron at a rate 76 and 99 times greater than the water content in the gills and liver which can affect long term fish health.

Recommended Product Sources that support this FREE Information and the Aquarium/Pond Keeping Hobby:
*AAP Dyacide (Dylox)
*AAP Pipzine
*AAP Discomed
*AAP Super Ich Plus
*AAP ParaGuard
*AAP Yellow Powder- Premium Nitrofurazone

A follow up in tank treatment with a Medicated Wonder Shell can be helpful too, regardless whether a previously mentioned strong in tank treatment was used or not.

Where to purchase: *Medicated Wonder Shells

HYDRA:

These small invertebrates are closely related to jellyfish and coral, which prey on small fish, shrimp, etc. While Hydra appear quite small and undefined in shape, they are simply small adult predatory animals.
Hydra have a tubular-like physique and measure just about a few millimeters. They possess one sticky foot on one side of the lower part their body, with several tentacles forming the other end of their body.
These tentacles have stinging cells which are capable of immobilizing their prey.
Hydra can take out prey close to their own size and their quick reproduction allows for the quick spread of Hydra.

Generally Hydra are accidentally introduced into an aquarium by many different means, often without the the unsuspecting aquarium keeping even knowing.
Plants or other bio introductions from a pond sources are common sources of introduction.

TREATMENT FOR HYDRA:
Many have successfully used fish such as blue or gold gouramis as well as paradise fish and sometimes mollies too to eat hydra (although this often does not completely rid your aquarium of these pests).

Generally chemical treatment is the best method of treatment, but can treatments that are effective generally will kill shrimp, snails, and similar invertebrates.
Be careful of using Dog wormers as is often suggested, as while these can be quite effective, these also can remain toxic to your aquarium environment.
Better is something intended for the aquarium environment that degrades quickly such as Clout or AAP Dyacide (unfortunately Clout has been discontinued).
Thorough water changes after use is also a must to keep down a possible spike in the nitrogen cycle.

Resource: *AAP Dyacide (Dylox)

WORMS USED AS FISH FOOD

Annelids:

Whiteworms (Enchytraeus albidus):
These are worms commonly used in feeding for larger fish; for instance, Gouramis and Cory cats love Whiteworms. Microworms (which are Nematodes not Annelids as are Whiteworms) are used for fry.
What we typically refer to as a “white worm” in the aquarium hobby is a segmented round worms (Annelids) that are closely related to the earthworm from the family enchytraeids. Whiteworms are an excellent food source for many amphibians and other aquatic creatures.

These worms can reach over 1 cm or more long. They are NOT a parasite danger to fish or other inhabitants of aquariums and are often seen wiggling up the sides or even at the surface. Whiteworms are basically a worm of de-composition and can multiply rapidly when over feeding is a problem. At this point the biggest danger is oxygen depletion from over population of these worms and a good vacuuming is in order. Many a customer has called or written me about these worms worrying that they have a parasite problem when in reality these worms are good for composting and are at worst an indicator of too much decomposing food and other organic debris.

Grindal worms

Nematodes

MicroWorms:
All the worms that fall under the popular term of Microworms are Nematodes (roundworms) and include Vinegar Eels, and Walter Worms. Microworms (Panagrellus Redivivus) are non parasitic and small (0.5 – 1.5 mm.) worms, which make excellent supplementary live food for fry which are either too big for infusoria or have outgrown the infusoria stage.

Walter worms:

Walter Worms are about half the size of the Microworm. These are recommended for feeding the very smallest fry. Walter worms generally live in the water longer than the Microworm.

Vinegar Eels

Vinegar Eels are also a nematode are readily cultured in large numbers, provided certain procedures are followed. These worms (also nematodes) are a little smaller than micro-worms, a great size for most baby fish. The worms must be grown in natural cider vinegar that has not been chemically treated to inhibit the growth of bacteria or yeast upon which the worms feed. Advantages of Vinegar eels is they do not breath oxygen so don’t create any problems in the fish tank, live a long time in the aquarium, and swim in the water column and stay towards the surface.

References:
*Camallanus (Camallanus cotti & C.lacustris)
*The Worms
*Whiteworms
*Microworms (Panagrellus redivivus)
*Platyhelminthes
*https://www.inkmkr.com/Fish/CamallanusTreatment/ *University of Florida; Nematode Infections in Fish

source

(Spicy Charred Pasta)

Spaghetti all’Assassina, or “Assassin’s Spaghetti” shows that sometimes it pays to break the rules! This Southern Italian favorite cooks the spaghetti right in a spicy tomato sauce until it’s crispy, singed, and totally irresistible.

Nicholas Antonacci, a Bari-based maître-sommelier and chef by trade who in 1981, at just sixteen years old, was promoted to demi chef at Il Sorso Preferito, offers a slightly different version of events. He recounts how an angry spaghetti all’arrabbiata slowly evolved into a killer spaghetti all’assassina.

Initially serving chilled meats and cheeses, Antonacci explains how chef and owner Enzo Francavilla gradually introduced hot dishes in response to popular demand, including a fiery spaghetti all’arrabbiata. With time, the well-used iron pans used to cook the arrabbiata sauce began to yield a charred, caramelised crust adding new depth to the dish. “This is a killer!”, declared one diner—and spaghetti all’assassina was born.

By the late 1970s, the restaurant passed into new hands: maître d’s Giuseppe Saracino and Mimì De Cosmo, alongside chef Gaetano “Nanuccio” Lonigro. The trio would go on to acquire another of the city’s landmark restaurants, Marc’Aurelio, later bringing in Pierino Lonigro—Nanuccio’s brother and a skilled chef in his own right. It was during this period spaghetti all’assassina made the leap from off-menu curiosity to a fully fledged first course.

Antonacci notes that many chefs who passed through Il Sorso Preferito and its sister restaurant Marc’Aurelio took fragments of the assassina story with them—recipes adapted, origins forgotten, and in some cases, credit claimed.

Today, Il Sorso Preferito remains in the ownership of Pierino Lonigro who, with his nephew Vincenzo in the kitchen, is still serving up the dish.

Assassina | the risottatura “error”​

I burnt the garlic in an iron pan with oil and chilli—not just browned, but burnt—and then removed it.

Into the boiling oil, I poured raw, hand-crushed peeled tomatoes, causing a flare-up. That flare-up was the ‘joy of the kitchen,’ which I immediately covered with a lid. The resulting smoke remained inside, imparting a smoky flavour to the spaghetti, as if they were burnt, but they were actually roasted.

Meanwhile, I brought water and salt to the boil and cooked the spaghetti—actually vermicelli—until just before al dente, when they began to bend. I drained them well and added them to the pan with the tomato to absorb the flavours. I stirred continuously, adding more raw, crushed tomatoes if they became too dry, and continued cooking until the pasta was done and the tomato had thickened. I tasted them to check the cooking, flavour, and salt, then gave them a superficial toasting. I finished by adding a little oil to give them a sheen, and my recipe was complete.

Assassin’s Spaghetti proves that sometimes letting things burn is the best way to develop the flavor.  They wouldn’t be quite the same without that brave first person who let them burn!

How to Make Spaghetti all’Assassina 

I think it goes without saying that you don’t have to be a professional chef to make Assassin’s Spaghetti. You’re trying to burn it after all! But it does take a little faith to avoid fussing with it too much. Here are the steps:

Make a tomato broth. Bring 4 cups of water to a boil in a medium saucepan set over high heat, then stir in 1/4 cup tomato paste and season generously with salt. Turn off the heat, leaving the pan on the burner.

Prepare the tomato sauce. Set a wide, deep skillet (large enough to lay the spaghetti in it without breaking) over medium-high heat. Add 3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil. When the oil begins to shimmer, add 2 sliced chili peppers and 2 minced garlic cloves. Cook, stirring regularly until fragrant, no more than 30 seconds. Add 16 ounces of tomato sauce to the skillet (not the tomato broth you made earlier, we’ll use that in a minute). Bring the sauce to a simmer, about 5 minutes. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper.

Slighly burn the spaghetti. Place the (uncooked) spaghetti in the skillet with the hot chili and oil and garlic

Coat the spaghetti. Place 12 ounces (uncooked) spaghetti in the skillet with the hot chili and tomato sauce. Use a large spoon to spread the spaghetti in one layer, pushing down and spooning the sauce over the top so the noodles are well-coated. Turn the heat to high and let it sit until the pasta has absorbed some of the sauce, about 3 minutes.

Cook the spaghetti. When the pan starts to look dry, add a ladleful of the warmed tomato broth. Do not move or toss the pasta, as it is meant to absorb the tomato broth and char some of the noodles at the bottom. Once the majority of the broth has been absorbed, add another ladle or two of the tomato broth over the pasta. Reduce the heat to medium-high. Continue to ladle the tomato broth over the pasta, letting it absorb the broth before each new addition.

Flip. When you’ve used about half the broth, use tongs to turn the spaghetti over. You should see dark, almost burnt-looking crispy pieces. Continue ladling in the broth and allowing the spaghetti to absorb and char until you’ve used all of the broth.

Finish and serve. Remove from heat and transfer to pasta bowls. Serve immediately, with a spoonful of burrata on top if you’d like.

If you can keep your head when all about you
Are losing theirs and blaming it on you,
If you can trust yourself when all men doubt you,
But make allowance for their doubting too;
If you can wait and not be tired by waiting,
Or being lied about, don’t deal in lies,
Or being hated, don’t give way to hating,
And yet don’t look too good, nor talk too wise:

If you can dream—and not make dreams your master;
If you can think—and not make thoughts your aim;
If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same;
If you can bear to hear the truth you’ve spoken
Twisted by knaves to make a trap for fools,
Or watch the things you gave your life to, broken,
And stoop and build ’em up with worn-out tools:

If you can make one heap of all your winnings
And risk it on one turn of pitch-and-toss,
And lose, and start again at your beginnings
And never breathe a word about your loss;
If you can force your heart and nerve and sinew
To serve your turn long after they are gone,
And so hold on when there is nothing in you
Except the Will which says to them: ‘Hold on!’

If you can talk with crowds and keep your virtue,
Or walk with Kings—nor lose the common touch,
If neither foes nor loving friends can hurt you,
If all men count with you, but none too much;
If you can fill the unforgiving minute
With sixty seconds’ worth of distance run,
Yours is the Earth and everything that’s in it,
And—which is more—you’ll be a Man, my son!

success is the target unrelenting success! 

Analysis