FISH PARASITE & NON PARASITE WORMS;
In Aquariums & Ponds
The Index below index breaks down the Worms into their three Phylums:
*Platyhelminthes, *Nematoda, & *Annelida
As well as information about Feeding Worms & Anchor Worms, which are not worms, rather copepod crustaceans.

• Platyhelminthes (Trematodes, Flukes, Fish Lice, Flat worms, Planaria)
  • Treatment of External Flukes, Planaria, etc
• Nematodes (Round Worms); Including Camallanus, Capillari
  • Treatment of Internal Nematodes (& some Internal Trematodes)
  • Suggested Treatments/Preventatives for Both Internal/External
• Annelids (Segmented Worms), Detritus Worms
• Anchor Worms
  • Treatment of Anchor Worms
• Hydra
• Feeding Worms including:
  • White Worms
  • Microworms
  • Walter Worms
  • Vinegar Eels)

Basics, Identification, and TREATMENT in Aquarium and Pond Fish.

Readers should note that ALL these parasites are INTRODUCED, whether by a fish directly or by an intermediate host such as a snail.
If you have had a certain fish for over a year, with no additions or possible intermediate hosts in the last six months, chances are you do not have one of these worms infestations listed. So always look for identifiable evidence of actual worms, and lacking these, utilize all circumstantial evidence to confirm otherwise, including the chances of introduction.

Otherwise, follow any circumstantial evidence that may be pointing to other copycat symptoms which may include internal Aeromonas infections, Ichthyophonus, osmoregulation issues, simple aging/genetics/earlier life trauma that injured internal organs, or quite often poor diet which can cause eventual liver & kidney damage as well as making a fish more susceptible to intestinal Aeromonas infections (which can present in feces like parasitic infections).
The bottom line without introduction in the last few months; what many might think is an internal parasite problem is very likely not and is a much more common Aeromonas bacterial infection (which is all around from the soil to your substrate and does not need introduction into the aquarium) or also quite possible, with the plethora of well marketed fish foods with poor energy levels and poor fiber contents, a nutritional issue.

Suggested Diet for CORRECT energy and fiber levels/content:
Clay Neighbor’s AAP Custom Fish Food

Information is included about non parasite Detritus Worms (commonly seen when an aquarium is cleaned or in aquariums with high bio loads and is an area with much confusion especially on the internet and often mis-identified as PLANARIA (Freshwater). More about Detritus Worms further into the article.

Information about: The Truth about Planaria in Aquariums

For information about “Whirling Disease” caused by the myxozoan parasite “Myxobolus cerebralis”, please refer to this related article from “Aquarium/Pond Answers:
Whirling Disease (Myxobolus cerebralis) in Fish

Before any aquarium/pond fish treatment it is important to know all the steps as often treatment is much more than dumping medication into an aquarium.
Please read this article before ANY aquarium treatment regimen:
Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish

PLATYHELMINTHES:
(Monogenea, Trematodes/Flukes, Planarians)

Platyhelminthes consists of the unsegmented flatworms, which include both free-living and parasitic species.
These worms have bilateral symmetry, and can move by using layers of muscle or by gliding along a slime trail using cilia.
Flatworms lack a circulatory system and complete digestive system, instead flatworms absorb nutrients through their skin and excrete wastes using specialized “flame cells”.
*Flame cells function like a kidney, removing waste materials.

A few flatworms have primitive light-sensing “eyes” that allow them to move either towards or away from light, while other species have different types of sensors on their bodies, including chemical, balance, and water movement receptors. Most species of flatworms reproduce both sexually and asexually.

The trematodes belong to the Animal Kingdom Phylum Platyhelminthes, and are commonly referred to as flukes.
Trematodes usually have flattened bodies, a primitive digestive system, suckers for attachment to their hosts, and are hermaphrodites (an organism that possesses both male and female sex organs).

The Monogenea are the class ectoparasites that infect fish.

Planaria are both marine and freshwater and can be parasitic, but this is generally rare and the few that are, generally are parasitic toward corals, eggs or other stationary “victims”.
See the section on Detritus Worms for more about Planaria since these are all too often confused with Detritus worms even though a completely different Phylum of worms.

INTERNAL TREMATODES:

Internal Flukes generally use intermediate hosts such as snails or other mollusks. The eggs must get into water in order to hatch and be able to infect their first host, a freshwater snail. The fluke develops in the snail and then burrows out to seek the second host which is a freshwater fish. Many species of snail and fish may carry these internal flukes.

– Here is a dissected fish displaying a serious internal Trematodes infection.

GILL FLUKES:

Gill flukes (Dactylogyrus) will appear on the gill filaments as tiny dark spots 0.04-0.08 inches (1-2mm) long.
Gill flukes can infect freshwater and saltwater fish and are found on fish from the wild as well as farmed fish.

These parasites attach to the gills of the fish and feed on mucus, epithelial cells (cells that line the inside of gills and perform the tasks of secretion, absorption, protection, and transcellular transport), and blood from the host.

The pictures above display first a standard microscopic slide of an isolated gill fluke and then to the right a Scanning Electron Microscope view of a gill fluke attached to gill filaments.

It is noteworthy that 100% positive identification with the naked eye is impossible.
Other than scraping the gills (which can be fatal to the fish) and then preparing a slide, your best recourse is an “educated guess” based on redness in the gills (which can be other issues too such as ammonia poisoning burns), and scraping (flashing) of the fish against objects in the aquarium or pond in the area of the gills.
In fact in the absence of this “flashing”, odds are the redness is bacterial (often Columnaris) or inflammation from ammonia poisoning (past or more likely present)

More about Gill Flukes;
Much of the mucus being produced by the fish is in response to the physical injury caused by the parasites.
Damage is physical and inflammatory, with secondary bacterial infections such as septicemia. Small or weak fish may die from the stress of acute infestations.

Gill flukes reproduce via eggs that drop away to hatch in about 2 to 4 days depending upon temperature.

The hatchling Dactylogyrus is ciliated similar to a paramecium. Once a host is found the water-borne Dactylogyrus larvae has eye spots that enable it to swim away from light and burrow into the fishes’ gill cover as the fish respires.
From my experience in a healthy aquarium or pond, even if one or two fish in the aquarium/pond have a large enough parasite infection to be irritated, if the larva fails to find a host, it dies.

However in poorly filtered and/or crowded ponds or in particular aquariums, these conditions increase the likelihood the larva will find a host. Once attached, it may take a week to mature and start producing eggs.
The adult Gill Fluke is assumed to only live 5-10 days.
Improving filtration and over crowding is as important as treatment.

With larger ponds, generally isolating the fish in a tub or small “play pool” is all that is necessary for treatment, assuming crowding and filtration is not a problem or improved.

Common aquarium carriers of gill flukes include: Plecostomus, Otocinclus, Corydoras, Koi, Discus, Characins, livebearers (Poeciliidae), some tetras (Characins) and Barbs (Cyprinidae), and Elephant Nose (Gnathonemus petersi).

For more about Monogeneans Flukes, which are a group of parasites best described as flatworms but are now considered a different class from Trematodes, please see these articles:
*Monogenean Parasites, Marine Fish
*Monogenean Parasites in Fish

FISH LICE (Argulus):

These are often round, flat and green.

They are similar in treatment to flukes and anchor worms. These can be physically removed with tweezers, and then the wound treated with Mebromin, hydrogen peroxide or even Neosporin followed by a 30 minute Methylene Blue Bath.
Reference: Fish Baths; Basic Ingredients, Methylene Blue

MARINE FLATWORMS:
The Acoel flatworms commonly observed are “Redbugs” or “Red Planaria”, of which the genus Convolutriloba is a member as in the picture to the left of Convolutriloba retrogemma.

While Convolutriloba retrogemma are often blamed for coral attacks, in reality this is rare. Rather, they breed rapidly and reproduce either sexually, laying eggs or by the asexual processes of fission/ budding where the worm simply splits up, producing a bud that forms a new worm.
Therein lies the problem: the flatworms crawl along the coral in search of food and, as they rapidly multiply, they block the coral’s light as well as hamper nematocyst capture of the coral’s prey. The coral is thus deprived of symbiotic nutrient nourishment, as well as planktonic food, and slowly starves to death.

The use of “Reef Dip” or a freshwater dip of corals or similar is the best prevention for these flatworms.

Where to purchase: *SeaChem Reef Dip

Treatments for External Flukes or Worms (including Flatworms/Planaria):

• • Clout/Dylox
    Clout, Dylox (AAP Dyacide) and other “in tank” treatments are often more effective when accompanied by baths or dips, as well, if a parasite such as a camalanus worm is exposed, treatment is often more effective.Where to purchase:
    AAP Dyacide (Dylox)For marine applications, I generally will treat twice with a water change and carbon treatment in between.
    ALL invertebrates should be removed during treatment (Corals, Shrimp, Anemones, etc.).
    Prior to re-introduction to the treated aquarium, all corals should be dipped in pH stabilized freshwater for 25 to 45 seconds.
    A standard dose of Potassium Permanganate or AAP Dyacide or Clout can be added to this dip for extra measure.

    This can also be used for nematodes, camalanus worms, or internal protozoans; although sometimes multiple dosages may be required.

• • PraziPro
    This can be used as either a bath (as well as mixed with Methylene Blue) or ‘in-tank. treatment.
    This is highly effective when used as directed for external parasites
    Mild effectiveness for internal parasites*Methylene Blue from AAP
  • Trichlorfon

• AAP Potassium Permanganate

NEMATODES:
(Round Worms)

Nematodes, also known as Roundworms, are a very common phyla of animals of which there are many parasitic forms. Nematodes are one of the simplest animal groups to have a complete digestive system, with a separate orifice for food intake and waste excretion unlike the Trematodes mentioned above. Reproduction is usually sexual and males are usually smaller than females.

Parasitic Nematodes can have quite complicated life cycles, moving between several different hosts or even locations in the host’s body.

If the Nematode has a direct life cycle, then it does not need an intermediate host and infection can spread directly from one fish to another by means of a fish ingesting of eggs or larvae.

If the Nematode has an indirect life cycle the nematode eggs or larvae enter an invertebrate intermediate host (such as copepod, tubiflex worm, or insect larva) or a fish intermediate host (these fish are then consumed by larger carnivorous fish) prior to being eaten by or entering the final host fish.

Indications (Diagnosis) of Nematode Infestation:
A method of diagnosing a nematode problem is generally just a guess. This is particularly plausible when a fish is eating regularly yet continues to lose weight, metabolizing body musculature to stay alive.
This is usually seen as thinning along the back on either side of the dorsal fin. This often results in a well-fed fish starving to death.

White feces can also be an identification tool, however this can be misleading as to a true Nematode (worm) infestation, as long thin white feces along with bloating are just as often an indicator of a bacterial infection; generally Aeromonas or possibly a digestive issue.
This can also be an indicator of a combination bacterial (again Aeromonas) and protozoan Flagellate infection, usually Hexamita.
Loss of appetite along with the other mentioned symptoms (such as thick white feces, along with some bloating on one side or both of the fish) can also be an indicator of a Nematode infection, especially a Eustrongylid nematode infestation.

Much More Information:
Gram negative, Aeromonas Infections in Fish

Generally a more positive identification of internal Nematodes is a thread like worm protruding from the anus.

True identification begins with a microscope (& often requires a necropsy of the fish after death).
Nematodes are smooth, cylindrical, relatively long worms, which distinguishes them from the flatter, segmented tapeworms and from the wider and shorter Monogenea Flukes.

Here is a list of some other general symptoms of nematode infections (besides the above already mentioned symptoms):

• Body Hemorrhaging
• Lumps or nodules on outer body (epidermis)
• Bloated or the opposite, wasting of the abdomen (the fish may continue to eat or show otherwise normal behavior).
  It is noteworthy that bloating in particular is generally a better indicator of a gut infection such as caused by Aeromonas Bacteria and/or a poorly functioning digestive system (which could also be the result of poor fish osmoregulation)
• Cysts, Inflammation, or Granulomas

A Few Common Nematodes:

Capillaria/Capillari.

These are probably the most common nematode due to the relatively non-complex life cycle and ease of transmission, as Capillaria spread from one fish to another by ingestion of infective larvae that live in the intestines of cichlids such as angelfish, discus, gouramis, tetras, cyprinids (and some other fish as well).
This is often referred to as “Gourami Disease” due to the frequency of infection in Gouramis

Symptoms common to this particular nematode include a bulge in the lower abdomen near the vent, or Capillari worms protruding from the anus.

Eustrongylid nematodes.

These are found in muscle within the body cavity or encapsulated on the liver and other organs. These nematodes can affect a number of different species such as guppies, gar, danios, angelfish and other cichlids.

Affected fish typically have bloated abdomens (similar to dropsy of bacterial origin), as these nematodes often migrate into the body cavity and can be quite large.
Unfortunately the treatment of these Nematodes usually fails due to the location of the larvae within the coelomic cavity or in the muscle of the fish, which is often misdiagnosed as bacterial Dropsy leading to the somewhat misleading statements that “Dropsy is un-treatable” when in fact the problem was NEVER Dropsy!

Reference: Dropsy in Fish

Camallanus Nematodes.

These infect the gastrointestinal tract of live-bearers, cichlids and other species of freshwater fish.

Symptoms (but not necessarily proof of infection):

• Usually, the first CLEAR indication of infection is a red worm extending from the anus of a fish (sometimes mistaken for feces).
• Scoliosis; Lateral curvature of the spine
• The lower part of the fish’ body is hollow and wasted
• Parasite infested fish show very slow or no growth, as parasite is taking the food.
• Fish is fading away, looks as if it is starving to death.

The life cycle of Camallanus worms passes through three phases;

1. A free-living stage
2. A series of molts during which time the worms infect an intermediate host (crustaceans such as Cyclops and Gammarus)
3. Then another molt that takes place in the final host/fish.

If the intermediate host crustacean is eaten by a fish, then the third-stage larvae becomes active and will start feeding again.
After two more molts, it will become a sexually mature male or female adult worms.
These are the distinctive red worms aquarists see protruding from the vents of infected aquarium fish.

One exception is the Camallanus cotti which has the ability to skip this stage, if a suitable crustacean host is not available. However there still needs to be a pathway to infection, which still often can rule out reinfection. Consumption of an infected fish by a tank mate or ingestion of feces produced by infected fish are possible modes of continuing the life cycle and thus reinfection. Removal of dead fish and other methods of consumption along with isolation and quick clean up of any and all feces should break this life cycle from my experience.

TREATMENTS for Internal Trematodes and Nematodes:

Before you treat, I suggest reading this article also from the “Aquarium/Pond Answers library:
Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish

The above article is very helpful in that often even milder mediations are much more effective when ALL PARAMETERS are spot on.
In particular, I have seen the relatively mild Metronidazole/Praziquantel combination work well for Camallanus worms when parameter are spot on (this includes a balanced Redox by keeping oxidative stress as low as possible) and not work at all when these are not.
This why we need to be careful with anecdotal advice when it comes to statements that “Metronidazole/Praziquantel will not work”, as when we dig deeper as per my long time experience with fish treatments, we will often find that there is a reason the treatment failed, and it was not the medication.

• • Metronidazole is a mild treatment parasitic worm treatment that is most effective for single cell parasites such as flagellates (examples include Giardia), but it can be even more effective when combined with SeaChem ParaGuard in tank and/or then used as a medicated food soak combined with Praziquantel (do not use ParaGaurd as part of the fish food soak).
    The use of Metronidazole has the added benefit in that it is effective for anaerobic internal infections, common to the gut.Reference:
    *Aquarium Medications; Food Delivery of Medications
    *What Are the Treatments for Intestinal Parasites in Humans (while not aimed at fish treatment, much more research goes into human worm treatment, so still worth a read)Recommended Product Sources that support this FREE Information and the Aquarium/Pond Keeping Hobby::
    *AAP Metronidazole
    *AAP ParaGuard

• • Praziquantel; this product works in part by paralyzing the parasites, thus allowing the host to more easily shed the parasite both internally and externally.
    Generally only one treatment is needed (if fed, two to three times in one day), although re-treatment 5-7 days days later of a product containing Praziquantel is required.
    Praziquantel along with Metronidazole are a couple of the safer medications you can use for your fish to treat parasites, both internal & external (& more effective when combined).
  • AAP General Cure
    General Cure (which contains Praziquantel, Metronidazole) can be used as a medicated fish food soak for internal parasites.
    Jungle/Tetra Parasite Guard is similar (it contains Praziquantel, Metronidazole, Acriflavin, Diflubenzuron).
    Of the two, General Cure is the better choice since Acriflavin & Diflubenzuron are intended only for external parasites (of which this is the better product for external parasites/worms).General Cure can be used as a medicated fish food soak by using 1/2 a packet for an average 60 gallon bio load medicated fish preparation. Fish food should be soaked for 15 minutes. After soak, pour entire contents into aquariumRecommended Product Source that support this FREE Information and the Aquarium/Pond Keeping Hobby:
    *AAP General Cure

• • Levamisol Once one of the more popular treatments for nematodes, but increasingly harder to find due to many safety concerns which includes the fact it is much more dangerous than others listed here when over dosed or even used normally as it can cause serious liver and blood issues. Even in doses needed to treat internal worms, “Neutropenia” may result which then results in the fish being more susceptible to bacterial infections.
    Levamisol is best used as part of a blend, such as in AAP Discomed where overdosing is nearly impossible since it is part of synergistic blend, otherwise use it as a treatment as a last resort due to the problems it can cause with the fish immune system, especially if over dosed accidentally.
    AAP Discomed contains Levamisol, Neomycin, Magnesium Sulfate, NaCl, & PiperazineRecommended Resource: AAP Discomed (Fish Food Soak) This is the strongest yet safest internal parasite fish food soak medication available anywhere! This is a product NO SERIOUS AQUARIUM KEEPER SHOULD BE WITHOUT IN THEIR ARSENAL!See this article for use and cautions:
    Aquatic Medications #3; chemical and parasite treatments

    Treat with Levimisol once followed by a water change and treatment in 3-7 days. Treat a third time after 1-2 weeks following the second treatment.
    Be careful, as Levamisol can kill many worms quickly, which with most internal nemtode infections is not an issue since they are not generally widespread. HOWEVER with use for widespread worm infestations, this can be a problem which is why this should NEVER be used to kill Detritus Worms (often misidentified as Planaria)

    Here is a source for Levamisol:
    https://www.inkmkr.com/Fish/ItemsForSale.html

• • Piperazine An especially good choice for Capillari and a safer choice than Levimisol or Fenbendazole if you can find it. It is also more effective than Praziquantel.
    The reason Piperazine is safer is that it works via anthelmintic action (used to expel or destroy parasitic worms in the gastro-intestinal tract).
    The mode of action is generally by paralysing parasites, which allows the host body to easily remove or expel the invading organism.
    For this reason, Piperazine is gentler on the fish and aquatic environment.
    Reference: Aquarium Medications Part 3; PiperazineRecommended Resource for Fresh Piperazine:
    *AAP Piperazine/Pipzine
    *AAP Discomed (Fish Food Soak)

• • Fenbendazole; Commonly sold as a dog de-wormer and has a wide range of internal worms it will kill. It works by interrupting the parasites’ cellular transport and metabolism.
    Fenbendazole can be mixed with fish foods, but often flavor enhancers such as AAP Garlic Guard are needed to hide this medication so that fish will accept the food “spiked” with Fenbendazole.
    Do not combine with PraziquantelDo not use if your fish has any bleeding issues, as Fenbendazole can inhibit red blood cell production

• • Combinations such as the above mentioned AAP General Cure that have Metronidazole as an ingredient as this medication is often effective for secondary bacterial infections such as Aeromonas and even better for possible Hexamita infestations of the gut, as witnessed in a white feces diagnosis where the aquarist is unsure of whether this is a worm or Aeromonas/Hexamita infection.
    Adding Neomycin to the Fish Food soak may help with secondary infections and/or gut infections while adding Nitrofurazon or even stronger AAP Spectrogram to external “in-tank” or hospital/bath treatments can help with secondary infections, especially Aeromonas infections.Recommended Product Sources:
    *AAP Discomed (contains Levamisol, Neomycin, Magnesium Sulfate, NaCl, & Piperazine)
    *AAP Yellow Powder- Premium Nitrofurazone
    *AAP Spectrogram; Kanamycin/Nitrofurazone Wide Spectrum Combination
    *AAP Neomycin

• • Epsom Salts; While not a treatment, the use of pure Epsom Salts (do not use scented products such as Lavender Epsom Salt) can help with passage of the parasite when used in a bath and or a fish food soak.For a fish food soak (along with medications such as General Cure), I suggest 1/8- 1/4 tsp of epsom salt along for every ounce of food prepared.The addition of AAP/SeaChem Garlic Guard to this fish food preparation can further help with palatability.
    Recommended Product Source:
    *AAP/SeaChem Garlic Guard

For BOTH Internal and External Nematode/Trematode Treatment

• • Medicated 30 minute baths using Methylene Blue, Aquarium Salts, as well as the antibiotics such as Metronidazole or Nitrofurazone at double normal recommended tank strength; This will aid in absorption of medications and osmoregulation that is VERY important, especially with internal parasite infestations which are difficult to treat even with strong medications.
    The Methylene Blue will be absorbed and aid in oxygen delivery although it is only mildly effective against the parasites, Methylene Blue aids in the fish’ general health.

• • A good follow up treatment as well as preventative which also improves fish immune resistance via improved Redox Balance (lowering oxidative stress) would be an AAP Medicated Wonder Shell.
    The AAP Medicated Wonder Shell is also a good part of a everything but the kitchen sink type treatment when it is not clear whether the problem is nematodes or an internal gut infectionsIf a medicated fish food soak is being used, the Medicated Wonder Shell would also be useful as an in-tank treatment to fight infection and improve fish immunity.Product Resource:
    AAP Medicated Wonder Shells

• Berberine (Oregon Grape Root Powder): While a new use in the aquarium hobby, growing evidence for the use of Berberine best found in Oregon Grape Root is growing in human studies. Since more funding is available for human studies, this often makes these studies more valuable and accurate.
  “Berberine has demonstrated significant antimicrobial activity against a variety of organisms including bacteria, viruses, fungi, protozoans, helminths, and chlamydia. Currently, the predominant clinical uses of berberine include bacterial diarrhea, intestinal parasite infections, and ocular trachoma infections.”
  Reference: Berberine; US Library of MedicineAnother benefit of the use of Oregon Grape Root as a source of Berberine is this herbal treatment can work with many other standard treatments such as Metronidazole to improve effectiveness.Current suggested use is 400 mg of power per 10 gallons of water and used as a additional treatment in aquariums and fish baths, not the sole treatment.

  Further Reference: Aquarium Medications Part 4; Oregon Grape Root

Recommended Product Sources that support this FREE Information and the Aquarium/Pond Keeping Hobby::
*AAP Yellow Powder- Premium Nitrofurazone
*Methylene Blue from AAP
*AAP Medicated Wonder Shells

How to perform a Medicated Fish Bath:
*Medicated Fish Baths; Dips, Swabs

Salt is advised not only in the baths at 1-2 teaspoons per gallon, but also in the display or quarantine tank at 1 teaspoon per gallon to 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons as this will also aid in mucous generation and the movement of fluids inside the body cavity (osmoregulation).
Correct Calcium Levels are also important for osmoregulation that will aid the fish in “battling” a parasite infestation (especially internal).

Also see these article for more about medicated baths & fish quarantine:
“Aquarium Disease Prevention; Quarantine, Baths”

Prevention is the BEST treatment for Nematodes, Marine Flatworms, and Flukes, especially Internal Nematodes

This is accomplished by regular water changes, the purchase of fish from a known quality resource, removal of the final host (in the case of Eustrongylid nematodes; birds and pond sanitation), or any intermediate hosts (tubiflex worms or other oligochaetes).

It is noteworthy that many (if not most) fish farms are located OUTDOORS, so the spread of nematodes via intermediate and finals hosts is easier than one may think. Knowing your source for your pet fish is very helpful as often many internal nematodes will not show symptoms in fish for over 30 days after arrival in your aquarium.

A final note as to treatment of nematodes in particular is that nematode infestations are generally internal, making treatment and medication “delivery” very difficult. More so with Eustrongylid nematodes since they are found in difficult to deliver mediation internal body locations.
My point here is, hopefully one can start treatment early or prevent an infestation altogether, however from my experience this is not a “real world” expectation as I have often failed to detect and treat with success (assuming it was treatable in the first place), so one should not be too hard on failures in treating internal Nematodes, as I have had my share of both successes and failures even under the good care.

Annelids “Segmented Worms” – Including:
DETRITUS WORMS

The annelids are the phylum of segmented worms which include earthworms. Most annelids are NOT purely aquatic in fresh water; the annelids found in freshwater are all oligochaetes (which means “few-bristled”) and are not very important in the freshwater ecology as are their marine cousins, the polychaetes (which means “multi-bristled”).
All the oligochaete worms are hermaphrodites (an organism that posses both male and female genitalia) and many are nearly microscopic.

Detritus Worms (from the group of worms called Oligochaetes, sub group naidid worms) are often misidentified in the aquarium hobby as Planaria without close inspection by many internet articles such as about.com.

Many of these worms are accidentally introduced by live plants, gravel (especially in the case of common Detritus Worms) live fish foods, and even brought in with fish transfers.
(Click picture to enlarge)

Many not familiar with Detritus worms will label these as everything from midge larvae, Planaria, to baby earthworms, of which none is true. They are very common and most often seen during vacuuming and other cleaning procedures.

These worms generally are not a problem and often go un-noticed living in the gravel aiding in breakdown of wastes, however high numbers of particular species can indicate low oxygen levels, cloudy water, poor Redox and low filter productivity.
This very often suggests some degree of pollution caused by poor cleaning procedures, over crowding, over feeding and poor filtration.

When the population explodes these worms often leave the gravel and cling to the sides, usually close to the surface as oxygen depletion due to the cumulative affects of increased organic mulm (often resulting with pH/KH drops, higher nitrates, poor Redox Balance), cloudy water and simply too many Detritus worms. This then drives them from the oxygen poor gravel where they normally hide/exist.
It is when these worms are crawling up the sides that most aquarium keepers take note, often not realizing that these worms have been present for some time living quietly in the aquarium substrate before a population explosion and often subsequent oxygen depletion drives them into the open.

Do NOT make the mistake of treating with Levamisol to rid your tank of Detritus Worms (aka false Planaria) as so many forums and websites advice.
I know for a fact that the die off can kill off many fish and that simply taking care of the cause of the worm population “explosion” will remedy this issue!!!

Please reference these sources for even more identification (and further information so as to dispel the internet aquarium myth that these are Planaria):
Detritus Worms/Planaria in Aquariums
The above article is THE article to read on the subject!

Other Reference:
*Aquatic Worms

“Detritus Worms” include these:

As stated earlier, control of these detritus (composting) worms is brought about by good vacuuming procedures, proper feeding, good filtration, lowering bio load, and addition of fish that will eat these.

This is a Planaria (a flat worm, not an Annelid)!
(click to enlarge)

ANCHOR WORMS:

Anchor Worms as seen to the left are a genus of copepod crustaceans (Species Lernea) that are parasitic to freshwater fish, especially coldwater fish often raised in ponds such as Goldfish.
I also have personally caught Trout that have been covered in Anchor Worms, but it is noteworthy that these trout were in a small, man made lake that by late spring is too warm for Trout to live in.
The point about the trout is applicable to the many anchor worm infestations I have dealt with in goldfish, in that it was much more common in warm or warming months where water temperatures are higher than is best for goldfish, @ 80F or higher.

The Anchor Worm is not always noticeable as pictured here, often it starts out as a small red sore. These red sores then multiply followed by small thread like protrusions that are the anchor worm.

Other common symptoms include frequent rubbing/flashing, inflammation on the body of the fish, and generally lethargy of the fish such as sitting on the bottom or floating on the surface of the water.

TREATMENT:
Best treatment is to use tweezers to remove the worm from the fish.
The fish should be gently cradled in the palm of your hand so as to not injure the fish as a net can. After removal, the wound SHOULD/MUST BE treated/swabbed with Merbromin/AAP Wound Control (Best to prevent an infection), Methylene Blue (2nd choice), or Hydrogen Peroxide (3rd choice).

If the Anchor Worm cannot be removed (or you are uncomfortable doing so), this is especially true with very small anchor worms, a direct swab of 50% water Potassium Permanganate & water directly on the worm should be performed followed by a rinse then a swab with Merbromin (AAP Wound Control).

With either procedure, a bath should also follow that consists of AAP Nitrofuracin Green, OR Methylene Blue, Salt, Nitrofurazone, & possibly Metronidazole.

Recommended Product Sources that support this FREE Information and the Aquarium/Pond Keeping Hobby::
*AAP Wound Control (Merbromin)
*AAP Nitrofuracin Green- Full Spectrum Treatment
*AAP Yellow Powder- Premium Nitrofurazone
*AAP MethyBlu PREMIUM Methylene Blue (Best version)
*Kordon Methylene Blue from AAP
*AAP Potassium Permanganate (Clear Water)

For serious infections and to prevent reinfestation, an in tank treatment with AAP Dyacide or Clout (Dimilin is similar), OR Pimpzine OR a Super Ich Plus (or ParaGuard, but not as strong)/Furan 2 combination can be used, OR General Clear, OR PraziPro (this is in order of strength).

AAP Dyacide or Clout (Clout is no longer available) are about the only treatments that will kill the Anchor worms while still actually on the fish, otherwise most medications kill Anchor Worms in the free swimming stage.

If a secondary infection is also present (which is common), such as red sores, a combination of AAP ParaGuard and Triple Sulfa OR AAP Furan 2 is often the best choice (beside the before mentioned physical removal and baths)

As part of the lifecycle, the female anchor worm will release her eggs into the water when they are about to hatch into free swimming larvae. These larvae will swim about for up to a week looking for a fish to attach itself to. If they don’t attach themselves in this period of time they will die off. So interrupting this is generally essential for a full “cure”.
This means healthy aquarium conditions, including optimizing ALL water parameters along with water changes.
A medicated fish food using your current fish food soaked with AAP Discomed may help further along with AAP Pipzine, Prazipro or General Cure in the aquarium (Pipzine being the first choice).
More about optimum aquarium care: AQUARIUM DISEASE PREVENTION; Steps to a Healthy Aquarium & Sick Fish

Beware of non aquarium professionals often in social media forums that will recommend herbal products such as Microbe-Lift Herbtana & Artemiss. There are no published ingredients from these discount seller products and more importantly these products negatively affect your aquarium’s Redox balance which would be the last thing you would want to do with a fish suffering from an Anchor Worm infestation especially one that is accompanied by sores and/or Septicemia.
Reference: Aquarium Medications Part 4; Microbe-Lift Herbtana & Artemiss

As well, beware of discounters such as Amazon selling products containing diflubenzuron (Dimilin).
With diflubenzuron, fish have been shown to accumulate diflubenzuron at a rate 76 and 99 times greater than the water content in the gills and liver which can affect long term fish health.

Recommended Product Sources that support this FREE Information and the Aquarium/Pond Keeping Hobby:
*AAP Dyacide (Dylox)
*AAP Pipzine
*AAP Discomed
*AAP Super Ich Plus
*AAP ParaGuard
*AAP Yellow Powder- Premium Nitrofurazone

A follow up in tank treatment with a Medicated Wonder Shell can be helpful too, regardless whether a previously mentioned strong in tank treatment was used or not.

Where to purchase: *Medicated Wonder Shells

HYDRA:

These small invertebrates are closely related to jellyfish and coral, which prey on small fish, shrimp, etc. While Hydra appear quite small and undefined in shape, they are simply small adult predatory animals.
Hydra have a tubular-like physique and measure just about a few millimeters. They possess one sticky foot on one side of the lower part their body, with several tentacles forming the other end of their body.
These tentacles have stinging cells which are capable of immobilizing their prey.
Hydra can take out prey close to their own size and their quick reproduction allows for the quick spread of Hydra.

Generally Hydra are accidentally introduced into an aquarium by many different means, often without the the unsuspecting aquarium keeping even knowing.
Plants or other bio introductions from a pond sources are common sources of introduction.

TREATMENT FOR HYDRA:
Many have successfully used fish such as blue or gold gouramis as well as paradise fish and sometimes mollies too to eat hydra (although this often does not completely rid your aquarium of these pests).

Generally chemical treatment is the best method of treatment, but can treatments that are effective generally will kill shrimp, snails, and similar invertebrates.
Be careful of using Dog wormers as is often suggested, as while these can be quite effective, these also can remain toxic to your aquarium environment.
Better is something intended for the aquarium environment that degrades quickly such as Clout or AAP Dyacide (unfortunately Clout has been discontinued).
Thorough water changes after use is also a must to keep down a possible spike in the nitrogen cycle.

Resource: *AAP Dyacide (Dylox)

WORMS USED AS FISH FOOD

Annelids:

Whiteworms (Enchytraeus albidus):
These are worms commonly used in feeding for larger fish; for instance, Gouramis and Cory cats love Whiteworms. Microworms (which are Nematodes not Annelids as are Whiteworms) are used for fry.
What we typically refer to as a “white worm” in the aquarium hobby is a segmented round worms (Annelids) that are closely related to the earthworm from the family enchytraeids. Whiteworms are an excellent food source for many amphibians and other aquatic creatures.

These worms can reach over 1 cm or more long. They are NOT a parasite danger to fish or other inhabitants of aquariums and are often seen wiggling up the sides or even at the surface. Whiteworms are basically a worm of de-composition and can multiply rapidly when over feeding is a problem. At this point the biggest danger is oxygen depletion from over population of these worms and a good vacuuming is in order. Many a customer has called or written me about these worms worrying that they have a parasite problem when in reality these worms are good for composting and are at worst an indicator of too much decomposing food and other organic debris.

Grindal worms

Nematodes

MicroWorms:
All the worms that fall under the popular term of Microworms are Nematodes (roundworms) and include Vinegar Eels, and Walter Worms. Microworms (Panagrellus Redivivus) are non parasitic and small (0.5 – 1.5 mm.) worms, which make excellent supplementary live food for fry which are either too big for infusoria or have outgrown the infusoria stage.

Walter worms:

Walter Worms are about half the size of the Microworm. These are recommended for feeding the very smallest fry. Walter worms generally live in the water longer than the Microworm.

Vinegar Eels

Vinegar Eels are also a nematode are readily cultured in large numbers, provided certain procedures are followed. These worms (also nematodes) are a little smaller than micro-worms, a great size for most baby fish. The worms must be grown in natural cider vinegar that has not been chemically treated to inhibit the growth of bacteria or yeast upon which the worms feed. Advantages of Vinegar eels is they do not breath oxygen so don’t create any problems in the fish tank, live a long time in the aquarium, and swim in the water column and stay towards the surface.

References:
*Camallanus (Camallanus cotti & C.lacustris)
*The Worms
*Whiteworms
*Microworms (Panagrellus redivivus)
*Platyhelminthes
*https://www.inkmkr.com/Fish/CamallanusTreatment/ *University of Florida; Nematode Infections in Fish

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Poultry red mites are a type of external parasite that infests chickens. They conceal themselves within the chicken coop surroundings and reproduce quickly. These mites survive by feeding on the blood of chickens and can even cause their death. Learn how to prevent and treat poultry red mite infestations.

Multiple species of mites exist globally, but only a limited number of them are relevant to poultry as external parasites. Specifically, this document addresses the poultry red mite, scientifically known as Dermanyssus gallinae, and also referred to as chicken mite or roost mite. This particular mite is an ectoparasite that feeds on the blood of chickens and various other avian species.

Poultry red mites are not always bright red; rather, they are red after a blood meal. They also look similar to northern fowl mites. The main difference between these two mites is that you will not find red mites on chickens during the day, whereas the northern fowl mite spends its entire life cycle— day and night—on the chicken.

Red Mite Identification

The poultry red mite is a hematophagous, or blood- sucking, ectoparasite. This particular mite stays on the chickens only at night and then hides in the coop environment during the day. To see if your flock is being affected by this particular external parasite, examine your flock at night with a flashlight. These parasites are most active 5 to 11 hours after darkness.

When your chickens go to roost at night, poultry red mites crawl along the roost to find the host. They crawl along the chicken’s leg to where the scales on the legs end and the feathers begin. This is right above the hock joint. Skin not protected by scales is subject to being bitten by the poultry red mites. You may just see redness from bite marks, or you may see the mites themselves, just above the hock. This does not mean that they will not travel up to the breast or thigh areas and bite the skin there. Sometimes you will see bite marks or lesions on other areas of the body when you lift the feathers to see the skin.

Poultry red mites are tiny, so you must look closely at what looks like dirt on the birds. Since chickens engage in dust bathing, observing their skin at night may require patience as you wait to see any potential movement. You may be able to disturb what looks like a mite by using a tiny paintbrush, such as ones used in watercolor paints, and see if it responds by moving. Be aware that they move slowly.

When you are moving equipment around or cleaning in the chicken coop, you may see small groups of poultry red mites. They congregate in cracks and crevices. Taking apart a wooden coop for spring cleaning, or perhaps during regular monthly cleaning, will likely reveal mites as they slowly run for cover once a hiding spot has been exposed. They will even inhabit spaces around nest boxes or in the litter. You must carefully check broody hens for signs of infestation from sitting in a nest box with red mites.

The Life Cycle

The life cycle of the poultry red mite starts as an egg that hatches in 2 to 3 days. At this stage, it is called a larva, and it is in its smallest size. In 1 to 2 days, the larva molts and is called a protonymph. In another 1 to 2 days, the protonymph molts and is called a deutonymph. After 2 to 3 days, the deutonymph molts one last time and is then an adult poultry red mite. The protonymph, deutonymph, and adult take blood meals on the host chicken. Within 12 to 24 hours after becoming an adult, a female poultry red mite can produce eggs that are laid in clutches of 4 to 8. Generally speaking, a female red mite will lay around 30 eggs in her lifetime, and she is capable of being reproductively active for about 8 weeks. In optimal conditions, the time between an egg being laid, molting several times, and becoming an egg-producing adult can be as short as a week. Poultry red mites are good survivors and can live in the environment for up to 9 months without feeding.

Symptoms of an Infestation

Chickens that are enduring an infestation of poultry red mites will be affected in two ways. First, birds will express stress-related behaviors. These behaviors will include increased levels of preening, head scratching, and some gentle feather pecking due to skin irritation from bites. Plumage damage can be seen as the feather quality of chickens will be reduced due to self-grooming. Increased self-grooming is a characteristic symptom of anxiety. This can be identified by feathers losing their shine or iridescent sheen. Feathers will begin to look tattered at the ends from frequent preening by the beak. A small portion of the feather may be missing from the rachis out to the end of the barb.

Stressed hens may begin to act aggressively toward one another. The aggression can begin with feather pecking and progress to cannibalism. There may be increased levels of light feather-pecking at night due to the irritation from the mites. In severe infestations, chickens may spend more than half of the night in feather-pecking behavior, which disrupts their sleep patterns. Hens may no longer sleep on perches where they have been repeatedly bitten.

Red mites may also be seen crawling on eggs if they inhabit crevices in the next box. This infestation can be especially problematic for hens that choose to sleep in the nest box or have begun to brood eggs in the nest box. Severe infestations of red mites can result in blood spots appearing on eggs. These red spots occur when eggs roll around in the nest and crush the red mites, marking the eggs with their color. When nest boxes are infested, hens may choose to avoid using the nest boxes when laying eggs. Instead, hens may begin to lay eggs on the coop floor or find an alternative location for egg laying. This can lead to dirtier eggs from the floor and hidden nests that are not discovered for longer periods.

Another symptom of a red mite infestation is in the chicken’s body weight. Chickens will begin to weigh less. This is possibly due to the disturbance of normal behavior during both the day and night. Although not complete, information on the effects of the mite on chicken behavior as noted by industry personnel and researchers, indicates that water intake will increase, egg production will decrease, and feed intake will increase. The increased feed intake and lowered egg production and body weight lead to a lower feed conversion ratio.

Birds will experience anemia that can range from mild to severe, even leading to death. Anemia is when the body does not have enough healthy red blood cells, which leads to reduced oxygen flow to the body’s organs. This can result in fatigue, changes in skin color, or a fast heartbeat. With this condition, your hens will have pale combs and faces. In a particularly bad infestation of poultry red mites, hens may lose more than 3 percent of their blood by volume every night. They may also isolate themselves and appear huddled or sleepy.

Disease Transmission Potential

The poultry red mite has also spread diseases, including numerous poultry pathogens and zoonotic organisms. The most recognizable organism to small flock owners is Salmonella enteritidis. If a poultry red mite takes a blood meal from a chicken that has Salmonella, then the Salmonella can live in the mite’s gut for up to 4 months. In that time, it can transfer the bacteria to another chicken. Also, the poultry red mite can carry the causative agent of Lyme disease, Borrelia burgdorferi, and avian influenza A virus.

Humans may be bitten by mites while caring for their flock. If you are bitten, your skin may become red and irritated, possibly followed by itching. This condition is called gamasoidosis. Humans can also be infected by organisms carried by the poultry red mite when bitten. These organisms include Borrelia burgdorferi, and Bartonella.

Monitoring Your Flock

Monitor your coop environment to see if poultry red mites are present, so you can decide if there are enough red mites to take action by treating the chickens or doing a coop cleanout. Any of the monitoring methods mentioned below can also be done in conjunction
with examining known gathering spots for the mites in the coop.

Blue Painter’s Tape

The first method uses blue painter’s tape. Purchase 1.88- or 1.44-inch wide tape and wrap it around the roost near where the walls meet the roost. Wrap the tape so the sticky side faces outward and away from the roosting pole. Any poultry red mite that crawls along the roost will need to walk across the painter’s tape and will become stuck. Take this step in the evening, preferably after the chickens have selected their spot on the roosting pole. Examine the tape the following day and count the number of mites stuck to the surface. This is an easy and affordable monitoring method for any small flock owner. If you put out several tape traps, then you may find some have more mites than others, indicating that a desirable hiding spot is nearby and should be the focus of your treatments of the coop and birds.

Rickstick

The second method is a Rickstick, a 1-inch PVC tube with a stick, such as a wooden dowel, inside of it. The stick should be slightly smaller in diameter than the PVC tube and extend slightly beyond the PVC pipe. Chickens are curious and may want to play with anything new in the coop, so place the stick inside the PVC tube with a single screw halfway down the wooden stick. This will keep chickens from pulling the stick out of the tube.

Mount this tube on the underside of roosts using cable ties. Regularly examine the wooden dowel in the Rickstick to see if any poultry red mites are present. Count the mites, clean off the stick, and return it to the PVC pipe. If you find just one or two mites on the RickStick, you are at a low or medium level of infestation. If there are more, treat all the birds and the coop.

PVC Tube + Cardboard

The third method uses PVC pipe mounted in similar locations to the Rickstick. Instead of a stick inside the PVC pipe, place a rolled-up piece of corrugated paper or corrugated cardboard. The length of the cardboard should not stick out of the sides of the PVC pipe, or the chickens may pull it free. The cardboard should be rolled up tight and placed in the tube. Pull out the cardboard after 1 or 2 days and search for mites, keeping in mind that you may have to pull the cardboard apart to see if they are inside the ridges between the inner and outer layers of cardboard. Replace the corrugated paper and check the trap regularly. The corrugated paper PVC tube should give you countable numbers of mites. Fewer than 250 mites is a low number, 251 to 500 is medium, and more than 500 is high. Examine your birds to see if they are losing weight when medium numbers are present, and then treat birds and the coop as numbers approach or exceed 500 mites.

Prevention

Regular cleaning disturbs the cracks and crevices where red mites hide. Painting the inside of the coop is another way to cover up many of the cracks and crevices where mites like to hide during the day. If you choose a light paint color, mites are also easier to see. Having a painted coop interior will result in an interior that is much easier to clean and disinfect. An alternative to painting the interior is to use a silicone gel to seal larger cracks and crevices. Exclude wild birds and rodents from your flock, as they can be a source of red mites.

Treatment Options

Treat birds and the coop for poultry red mites only if they become a problem. Spraying birds and the chicken coop environment with unproven products can potentially create more problems. Not only can this be environmentally irresponsible, but resistance may also occur due to incomplete kills or poor residual activity. By monitoring birds and the chicken coop environment, you can verify that the problem exists and at a level that warrants action.

Use temperature to your advantage. Chicken red mite populations grow faster when temperatures are between 77 and 95 degrees F. They also prefer a humidity level of 70 to 90 percent. You may be able to remove the flock from the coop interior for a day and close up the coop until temperatures reach over 113 degrees F, which is lethal for red mites. In cold climates during cold times of the year, a coop temperature that reaches -4 degrees F is also lethal for red mites.

An integrated pest management (IPM) approach wisely uses time and resources to keep your flock healthy. Many chemical control methods once on the market are no longer available, or mites are resistant to them. A short residual activity with some chemical products means that some mites may not come into contact with the chemical. Mite eggs are resistant to many products. As such, some chemicals may need to be reapplied to allow eggs to hatch, affecting immature stages of poultry red mites.

Your treatment strategy should resemble an integrated pest management plan. Your strategy will change depending on the number of poultry red mites you find, because so many acaricide (mite-killing) products that were once available are no longer on the market. Be strategic and forceful with your treatment strategy. If you find just 1 or 2 mites on the birds, you are at a low or medium level of infestation. You should treat all the birds and the coop if there are more.

Some treatments listed in this document are not to be used in the presence of birds and, therefore, should be used during spring cleaning or after a flock has been moved out. Most treatments warn that the chickens’ feed, water, and related feeding or watering equipment should not become contaminated with the product.

For products designed to be used directly on the chicken, focus on areas around the vent, the upper thighs, and under the wings. Dusts and liquids should be applied directly to the skin. Do not spray the feathers, as that is not where the treatment will be effective. If the product is a dust, ensure that you work in a well-ventilated area and wear a mask. Several products carry warnings on the label that indicate what sort of clothing or personal protective equipment you should use in the presence of the product. Please be sure to read and follow all label instructions. You can also use food grade diatomaceous earth (DE), but don’t breathe the dust. Application rates for DE will need to increase when humidity levels are high.

In all of the coop sprays in table 2, retailers suggest that you spray the product into cracks and crevices in the coop. It may surprise most people that they will go through more than a gallon of liquid spray to force the product down into these gaps effectively. The only exception is in coops where owners have painted the interior to significantly reduce the number of cracks and crevices where red mites may hide. Not only does painting the coop’s interior reduce the number of places where red mites may hide, but it also helps flock owners reduce the amount of material they spray as a treatment.

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CLOUDY EYES Longhorn Cowfish

Longhorn cowfish with cloudy eyes can be a cause for concern, but it’s often treatable. Cloudy eyes, or corneal opacity, is a symptom of underlying issues rather than a specific disease itself

Here are the most common causes and how to address them:

Causes

• Poor Water Quality: This is the most frequent cause. Longhorn Cowfish, like other marine fish, are sensitive to ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH imbalances, dissolved organic compounds, and heavy metals. Poor water quality can irritate and inflame the cornea, leading to cloudy eyes.
• Bacterial Infections: These can develop from minor injuries or when a fish is stressed or has a weakened immune system. Bacteria like Aeromonas, Vibrio, and Pseudomonas can cause eye infections leading to cloudiness and inflammation.
• Physical Trauma: Longhorn Cowfish can injure their eyes by scraping against decorations, fighting with tank mates, or during handling or tank maintenance.
• Nutritional Deficiencies: A lack of a healthy, balanced diet, particularly vitamin A, can contribute to poor eye health and cloudy eyes.
• Parasitic Infections: External parasites like marine ich or flukes can irritate the eye tissue and cause cloudiness.
• Age-Related Issues: Older Longhorn Cowfish may develop cataracts or other age-related eye changes that can cause cloudiness.

Actions to take

1. Test Water Parameters: Begin by checking your aquarium’s ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, temperature, and salinity levels. If any are outside the ideal range for Longhorn Cowfish (see next section), take steps to correct them.
2. Perform Water Changes: Regular water changes (25-30% weekly to bi-weekly) are essential to maintain good water quality and prevent the build-up of harmful substances.
3. Enhance Filtration: Ensure your filtration system is functioning optimally and consider adding a protein skimmer to further improve water quality.
4. Evaluate and Improve Diet: Longhorn Cowfish are omnivores and should be fed a varied diet including meaty foods (shrimp, bloodworms, chopped clams) and herbivore preparations like spirulina or algae wafers. Ensure they receive plenty of vitamin A.
5. Inspect the Aquarium for Hazards: Remove any sharp decorations or rockwork that could injure your Longhorn Cowfish’s eyes.
6. Consider Antibiotics (If Infection Suspected): If you suspect a bacterial infection, broad-spectrum antibiotics may be necessary. It’s best to consult with a veterinarian or experienced aquarist to choose the appropriate medication and dosage. API Melafix is an all-natural antibacterial treatment that works to treat infections in fish. This product may be used when adding fish to an aquarium to smooth the transition from store to home or if an infection is suspected.
7. Consider Anti-parasitic Treatment (If Parasites Suspected): If parasites are the suspected cause, anti-parasitic treatments like copper or freshwater dips may be necessary. Again, consulting with an expert is recommended.
8. Quarantine the Affected Fish: If the cloudy eyes are due to a suspected infection, it’s best to move the affected Longhorn Cowfish to a separate quarantine tank to prevent the possible spread of disease and to facilitate individual treatment.
9. Reduce Stress: A low-stress environment with plenty of hiding places, a consistent light cycle, and avoiding sudden changes in the tank environment can aid recovery.

Longhorn Cowfish tank requirements

• Minimum Tank Size: 180-250 gallons for a single Longhorn Cowfish
• Water Conditions: pH: 8.1 – 8.4; Salinity: 1.020 – 1.025; Water Temperature: 72°F – 78°F.
• Water Flow: Moderate to high flow is preferred.
• Substrate: Sandy substrate.
• Décor: Plenty of live rock and hiding spaces.
• Diet: Omnivore. Provide a mix of meaty foods (shrimp, bloodworms, clams, mussels, snails, tunicates, fish) and algae-based foods. 

As dedicated reef aquarium keepers, whenever we notice something unusual with one of our fish, it can feel alarming. One common issue is noticing a hazy or cloudy appearance in a fish’s eye, and we immediately start to worry. Is it serious? Can it be treated? Is my fish in pain? Will my fish be ok?

In this article, we will examine why your fish’s eye may have turned cloudy, the treatment you can try, and how to prevent a cloudy eye from happening in fish.

What Is “Cloudy Eye”?

A cloudy eye (or corneal/eye opacity) is not a fish disease, but rather a common symptom of different underlying conditions. When a fish’s eye becomes cloudy, the outer protective layer of the eye (the transparent cornea) becomes infected, damaged, or inflamed. 

Your fish’s eye may appear anything from slightly foggy to completely white, and it can affect one eye or both your fish’s eye.

Why Did My Fish’s Eye Turn White?

There are seven common causes of cloudy eyes in reef fish. 

1. Poor Water Quality 

The most common cause of cloudy eyes is usually poor water conditions. As your fish’s eye is directly exposed to water in aquatic environments, fish can become sensitive to improper pH levels, dissolved organic compounds, accumulated heavy metals, high ammonia nitrate concentrations, and elevated ammonia/nitrite levels. 

All the above cause irritations and can cause cloudy eyes due to the inflamed cornea.

• Problem: This is the most frequent cause of cloudy eyes in aquarium fish. Unsuitable pH levels, high concentrations of ammonia, nitrates, or nitrites, or accumulated heavy metals in the water can irritate the fish’s eyes, leading to inflammation and cloudiness.
• Solution:
  • Test your water parameters regularly, including ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH levels.
  • Perform regular water changes (e.g., 25-30% weekly) and ensure proper filtration to maintain a stable and healthy environment.
  • Clean or replace filter media as needed and ensure your protein skimmer is working efficiently.
  • Use a quality water conditioner to neutralize chlorine and chloramine in tap water.
    

Poor water quality is a prevalent cause of cloudy eyes in fish. High levels of toxins like ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates can irritate a fish’s eyes, leading to cloudiness. Such conditions stem from overfeeding, overcrowding, or inadequate filtration.

Poor water quality also lowers your fish’s immune system, making it susceptible to bacterial and fungal infections.

Diagnosing the Cause

You need to conduct a water quality check to see if poor water quality causes cloudy eyes in your fish. Testing the water for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels will help determine if the cloudiness is due to a toxic environment.

Also, watch your fish’s behavior — if they seem less active or are gasping at the surface, your water might be the problem.

Treatment Options

Improving water quality involves regular water changes, proper tank maintenance, and ensuring the filtration system functions correctly.

It may also require reducing the number of fish or the amount of food given if overstocking or overfeeding is an issue.

Completely replacing the aquarium water isn’t advised because it will remove the beneficial microorganisms and disrupt the nitrogen cycle in the tank, which could be harmful to your fish.

2. Bacterial Infections

Secondary bacterial infections usually develop from minor eye injuries when fish become stressed or their immune system weakens. Common bacterial pathogens that cause severe eye infections in fish include Aeromonas, Vibrio, and Pseudomonas species. They quickly develop into cloudy eyes, inflammation, and in severe cases discharge.

• Problem: Bacteria, such as Aeromonas, Vibrio, and Pseudomonas, can infect the cornea, causing cloudy eyes, swelling, and even discharge.
• Solution:
  • If the cloudiness is accompanied by swelling or discharge, it may indicate a bacterial infection.
  • Consult with an experienced fish veterinarian or specialist for accurate diagnosis and appropriate antibiotic treatment.
  • Consider using reef-safe antibiotics or medicated food in a quarantine tank. 

3. Fungal Infections

Fungal infections, such as those caused by Saprolegnia or Ichthyophonus hoferi, often emerge when fish are most vulnerable — due to injury, stress, or suboptimal living conditions like poor water quality or overcrowded tanks.

Visible signs include cotton-like growths on the fish’s body, including the eyes, and if left untreated, can lead to more severe complications like septicemia or fin rot.

Fungal infections often occur in tanks with substandard water quality, poor oxygenation, or high ammonia levels.

Stress factors such as low water temperature, lack of aeration, or overcrowded tanks also contribute to the vulnerability of fish to fungal infections.

Diagnosing the Cause

To determine if a fungal infection is behind a fish’s cloudy eye, look for accompanying signs like white or grey fuzzy patches on the eye or body. These growths can resemble cotton and are not typically seen with bacterial infections.

A definitive diagnosis often requires a vet’s examination of the affected tissue. Water quality tests are also crucial, as poor conditions commonly contribute to fungal outbreaks.

If these signs are present and water quality is poor, a fungal cause is likely.

Treatment Options

Treatment of fungal infections generally includes medicating the water with substances like potassium permanganate, especially for Saprolegnia. For Ichthyophonus hoferi, raising salt levels and water temperature may be effective.

Maintaining good water quality, proper aeration, and appropriate tank temperature are essential preventive measures.

4. Parasitic Infections

Parasites such as marine ich, marine velvet, flukes, and other external parasites can cause irritation which leads to cloudy eyes in fish. These parasites directly attach to the eye tissue and need treatment asap to prevent the fish’s vision from worsening.

• Parasitic infections: External parasites like flukes can attach to the eye, causing irritation and cloudiness. Treatment may involve anti-parasitic medications.

Parasitic infections in fish can lead to various symptoms, including cloudy or milky eyes.

These infections are typically caused by parasites that invade the eye or the surrounding tissues, such as flukes or protozoa, which can be introduced into an aquarium through new fish, plants, or even replacement water.

Diagnosing the Cause

A fish with a parasitic eye infection may show other signs of distress, including abnormal swimming, inflammation, and visible parasites on the eye, which can be dangerous for the fish if not promptly addressed.

You should also consider the fish’s history, whether you have recent additions to the tank that might have introduced parasites.

Veterinary consultation is necessary since specialized equipment is needed to identify the parasites that have infected your fish.

Treatment Options

Treating parasitic infections that cause cloudy eyes generally involves anti-parasitic compounds like praziquantel for flukes and metronidazole for protozoan infections.

The treatment plan may include administering medication directly into the water or via food if the fish are still eating.

Complete eradication of parasites requires following a strict medication schedule, which may involve increasing the water temperature to speed up the life cycle of the parasites, making them more susceptible to treatment.

Improving tank conditions and conducting regular water changes are vital to aid recovery and prevent future infections.

5. Physical Trauma

Fish can sometimes injure their eyes by scraping against decorations or rough rockwork inside the aquarium. This is why it is important to create an aquascape that is safe for marine fish. 

Fish can also injure their eyes if they have aggressive encounters with tankmates, accidental injuries during netting (when catching your fish), aquarium tank maintenance, or hitting aquarium glass if they become startled.

• Problem: Fish can injure their eyes by scraping against tank decorations, during netting, or in aggressive interactions with other fish. Fish lack eyelids, making them particularly vulnerable to eye injuries.
• Solution:
  • Ensure your aquascape has smooth edges and plenty of open swimming space to minimize the risk of collisions.
  • Handle fish with care, using soft nets and ideally coaxing them into containers for transfers.
  • Maintain a low-stress environment with hiding places for the fish to recover from any injury.
  • Clean water is crucial for healing. 

Physical injuries are also common causes of cloudy eyes in fish. Such injuries can occur when fish collide with sharp tank decorations or are handled roughly.

The absence of eyelids in fish means their eyes are more exposed and susceptible to injury.

Without the protection eyelids provide, fish can easily suffer from physical abrasions caused by tank decorations, substrate, or aggressive behavior from other fish.

This vulnerability can contribute to the development of cloudy eyes, as the exposed tissues are more prone to damage and subsequent infection or inflammation.

Diagnosing the Cause

In diagnosing whether the cloudy eyes of your fish are caused by trauma or physical injury, check for signs of damage to the fish’s body or fins.

If a collision or fight causes trauma, injuries in other parts of the body could also be present. Usually, only one eye is also affected. The area around the cloudy eye may also have visible signs of wounds or abrasion.

Treatment Options

The primary treatment for physical injuries is to provide a clean and safe environment to prevent infection. This includes removing sharp objects from the tank and ensuring optimal water quality.

Sometimes, a mild antiseptic may be used to prevent secondary bacterial infections.

6. Age-Related Changes

Just like us humans, fish can develop age-related eye changes such as cataracts that can turn into cloudy eyes. This is most common in older fish and those with longer lifespans.

• Aging: Older fish can develop cataracts, which are a natural clouding of the lens, affecting vision and causing eyes to appear opaque. Unfortunately, cataracts are often irreversible. 

7. Nutritional Deficiencies

• Nutritional deficiencies: A lack of essential vitamins, particularly vitamin A, can negatively impact fish eye health and lead to cloudiness. Ensure your yellowtail cowfish receives a balanced and varied diet, including foods rich in vitamins and Omega-3 fatty acids, according to Vision Source El Dorado and Whidbey Island Seafood Company.

Providing fish with a healthy balanced diet and good nutrition is essential for their health. In particular, vitamin A is important for fish, as deficiencies can lead to eye problems.

Cloudy eyes can also be a symptom of a poor diet, leading to a weakened immune system.

Diagnosing the Cause

Cloudy eyes caused by poor diet and nutritional deficiency are usually accompanied by other signs and symptoms, such as lethargy, fading colors, and stunted growth.

Treatment Options

Addressing cloudy eyes caused by nutritional deficiency requires a varied diet that meets all their dietary needs.

This could include high-quality flakes, pellets, frozen or live foods, and vegetable supplements. Targeted supplements may be recommended for specific deficiencies to address the lack of certain nutrients.

8. Species-Specific Considerations

Some species of fish are more prone to eye-related issues. For example, some surgeonfish are more likely to form eye cloudiness. 

Puffers and boxfish are also known to develop eye issues because they have protruding eyes. Bottom-dwelling fish also, as they spend more time around the sand substrate, which can irritate their eyes. When cleaning the sand substrate inside your aquarium, be careful not to blow sand in their face which could lead to irritation.

Is Cloudy Eye In Fish Contagious?

Cloudy eyes can be contagious, depending on the underlying cause. Cloudy eyes from bacterial or parasitic infections can be contagious. Fish that are stressed or have a weakened immune system are more likely to contract cloudy eyes. Therefore, you should separate and quarantine your fish to prevent it spreading to other livestock inside your aquarium.

Does My Fish Have Cloudy Eyes?

To determine if your fish has cloudy eyes, the first step is to diagnose the cause. You should ask yourself: 

Is the cloudiness in one or both eyes?

One-eye (unilateral) cloudiness typically suggests a localized infection or trauma. Bilateral (both eyes) cloudiness usually is a sign of an infection, nutritional issues, or water quality problems. 

Does your fish have any other symptoms?

Other symptoms that may accompany a cloudy eye include loss of appetite, skin lesions/discoloration, abnormal swimming patterns, behavioral changes, and/or rapid gill movements. 

How quickly did your fish develop a cloudy eye?

Sudden eye cloudiness usually indicates an acute infection or an injury, while gradual cloudiness may be from chronic, degenerative, or nutritional issues. 

What do your water parameters read?

Check the water parameters inside your reef aquarium. Specifically, test the nitrate, nitrite, pH, ammonia, temperature, and salinity levels to rule out any problems with the water quality.

How To Fix Cloudy Eyes In Fish?

The first step is to address the water quality. 

If you suspect poor water quality:

• Perform a 25-30% water change and clean the mechanical filtration media

• Replace and add fresh activated carbon (carbon media)

• Check that your protein skimmer is running properly

• Test and adjust water parameters if needed

Next, treat any infections.

If your fish has a bacterial infection, use antibiotics that are reef-safe. For extreme infections, you may want to consider removing your fish and treating it with antibacterial foods or a medicated bath. When medicating fish it is important to always quarantine fish.

For parasitic infections, use copper treatments (never dose copper in a display tank), freshwater dips that are properly pH-matched, or formalin dips (only to be used for short-term treatment). 

If your fish has experienced physical trauma to its eye, clean water is the best medicine. If the injury doesn’t seem to get better, consider using iodine supplements (always check the dosing guidelines). To help with the healing process, ensure you maintain optimal conditions and maintain a low-stress environment with plenty of hiding spaces for your fish to rest. 

If nutritional deficiencies are the cause of cloudy eyes,

• Marine algae such as Tetraselmis chui, Rhodomonas salina, or Tisochrysis lutea

• Frozen foods like brine shrimp or mysis shrimp

• High-quality marine flakes/pellets

• Foods rich in vitamins

Preventing Cloudy Eyes In Fish

To prevent cloudy eyes, you should:

• Maintain stable water parameters and water chemistry

• Monitor filtration and change filter media when needed

• Design a safe aquascape for fish with smooth edges and plenty of swimming space

•  Quarantine ALL new additions to prevent unwantedaquarium hitchhikersand fish diseases

• Stock compatible fish to prevent aggression

• Feed a high-quality and varied diet

• Handle fish with extra care when transferring fish to a new aquarium 

• Follow proper acclimation methods

When To Seek Expert Help For Cloudy Eyes In Fish?

Most cases of cloudy eyes can be treated at home, however, sometimes professional assistance is needed if:

• The eye is severely swollen

• The eye is protruding

• The fish is showing signs of stress or pain

• The condition is worsening despite home treatment

• Your fish is also showing severe discoloration or unusual growths on the eye or body

If you notice any of the above, speak to a fish veterinarian or experienced specialist.

Conclusion

A cloudy eye in fish should never be ignored, but also try not to panic. By understanding the common causes of cloudy eyes in fish and the home treatments available, you’re on the right track to helping your fish.  source

]]> https://goodshepherdmedia.net/brown-jelly-disease-what-it-is-and-how-to-treat-it/ Tue, 29 Oct 2024 15:44:17 +0000 https://goodshepherdmedia.net/?p=18809 Brown Jelly Disease Euphyllia: What it is and How to Treat it

Brown Jelly Disease: Causes & Treatment

Sometimes things go smoothly in your aquarium, and then “bam” just like that, you have a brown jelly disease outbreak. The victims of this nasty disease are usually corals from the Euphyllia group.

Euphyllia Corals include some of our favorite LPS corals: Torches, Frogspawns, and Hammer Corals. They are without a doubt one of the most beautiful corals to add to reef aquariums, and their popularity means they will continue to dominate hobbyist’s tanks around the world. Their popularity comes from their fleshy polyps, vibrant color morphs, rapid growth, and hardiness.

Unfortunately, keeping Euphyllia Corals does come with one warning, and that is brown jelly disease.

What Causes Brown Jelly Disease?

Brown jelly disease is an issue that many hobbyists who have Euphyllia are likely to run into. Like most coral diseases, the cause of pathogen infections like brown jelly disease is still unknown. However, microscopic examination of coral tissues that were infected by brown jelly had numerous ciliates called Helicostoma nonatum.

Even though we know there are ciliates present in the brown jelly mucus, scientists have still not determined what role they play in the disease. Because there are so many microbes present within the slime, it is hard to say which ciliate causes the infection. It is also still unclear if the ciliates are primary pathogens or secondary opportunists in brown jelly infections. But, there is increasing evidence that motile ciliates do play a role in coral diseases and opportunistic ciliates are not helping your Euphyllia survive the disease.

When it comes to causes of diseases on a hobbyist level, we can only come up with assumptions based on experience. Many hobbyists have found that poor water conditions, overfeeding, and damaged tissues can contribute to brown jelly infections, however, this is only “hear-say” and not scientifically proven yet.

What Does Brown Jelly Disease Look Like & How To Spot It Early

If your coral is covered in a brown, gelatinous mass (like a slime or jelly-like “goo” substance) that is covering your coral’s flesh, it is likely you have a brown jelly outbreak.

The brown jelly is associated with rapid tissue loss (RTS), which very quickly spreads to neighboring corals, regardless of the species. Because of the high contagion rates of RTS, once a coral is infected, you must act fast otherwise it will quickly deteriorate and die.

If you take a close look at your infected coral, you will notice this brown jelly-like substance floating on the surface of your coral, moving around as your coral’s polyps sway with the water flow. The brown substance is also sometimes associated with a rotten smell once the coral has been removed from the aquarium.

Spotting brown jelly disease early will determine if treatment is possible. As an aquarium hobbyist, it is important to check individual corals on a daily basis, so you can catch infections such as brown jelly before it overrules your aquarium.

Treatment For Brown Jelly Disease

Depending on how bad the brown jelly infection is, will determine which treatment is best. Many hobbyists have had success with different treatment methods, however, do not be too hard on yourself if you try them yourselves, and they do not work. Brown jelly disease is a very difficult infection to treat because we do not know the cause.

Many reef hobbyists have tried treating infected Euphyllia Corals affected by brown jelly disease outbreaks with different coral dips, but many have not succeeded and would agree that the best option is to frag off the infected area and throw it away. This can be a very hard decision to make, and trust me, I feel your pain, but a coral that is “too far gone” is better thrown away, than spreading the infection to all your other corals.

Siphon Removal 

You can try to physically remove the brown jelly with a pipette or turkey baster around the infected areas (head). This must be done very carefully, so you do not smother your other corals, therefore it is recommended to remove your infected coral and treat it in a separate tank or container.

If you must treat your coral inside an aquarium and cannot remove the coral, turn off all water flow. Take a pipette (or turkey baster) and siphon off the dead tissue and “goo” covering your infected coral.

It is highly recommended, however, that you treat your coral outside the main aquarium. When removing an infected coral head, turn off any water flow, so the jelly is not blasted around the aquarium. When removing your coral, also make sure you wear gloves as some corals in your aquarium may contain toxins like palytoxin which is extremely harmful if it gets into your bloodstream.

It is also recommended to frag heavily infected sections to reduce the spread and then continue treatment with a coral dip.

Coral Dips & Antibiotics

Dipping a coral infected with brown jelly disease will hopefully eliminate the infection.

There are different kinds of coral dips that you can try, but the best to treat fungal, bacterial, and microbial infections are iodine-based dips such as Seachem’s Reef Dip, or potassium-salt-based coral conditioners like Polyp Lab’s Reef Primer. (and to rid of other parasites unlrelated to Brown Jelly Disease many reefers use Blue Ocean Coral RX

Coral Dip: Seachem’s Reef Dip 

This Reef Dip must never be added directly into your reef aquarium, so set up a separate container to dip your infected coral.

• Per 4 L of aquarium water, add 1-2 caps (5-10 ml) of Reef Dip and mix thoroughly.
• Dip your infected coral for 15-30 minutes.
• Remove your coral from the dip and place it back into the aquarium.

Coral Dip: Polyp Lab’s Reef Primer 

Reef Primer must never be added directly into your reef aquarium, so set up a separate container to dip your infected coral.

• Per 4 L of aquarium water, add 8 caps (or 45 g) of Reef Primer and mix thoroughly.
• Dip your infected coral for a maximum of 5 minutes.
• Remove your coral from the dip and place it back into the aquarium.

Antibiotics

Just like how you would use antibiotics to fight infections, antibiotics can also be used to treat brown jelly disease, and hopefully, give your coral a fighting chance to survive.

Many hobbyists have been successful in using Ciprofloxacin because it is still very effective in low doses, minimizing damage from dipping. It is recommended to use 0.125 mg/L of Ciprofloxacin by dissolving a 500 mg tablet in 50 ml of reverse osmosis deionized (RODI) water.

Per 260 L of aquarium water, add 3.3 ml of the mixed antibiotic solution. Repeat this for the next 2-3 days and check the coral’s condition.

Conclusion

Brown jelly is a contagious disease that commonly infects Euphyllia Corals. The cause of this infection is still unknown, however, there are a few treatments that hobbyists have been successful with, which include siphoning the brown jelly and dipping the infected coral.

In severe cases, the best solution is to discard the infected coral. Removing a coral that is infected with brown jelly disease will save the rest of your corals in the aquarium.

We wish you all the best in saving your coral from brown jelly disease. If you have had any success with other methods of brown jelly treatment, we would love to hear all about it – leave a reply below!

General information

Brown Jelly Disease is one of the biggest threats to corals, especially species of the Euphyllia genus. The disease gets its name from the characteristic brown, jelly-like coating that covers corals, often leading to their rapid death. Understanding the causes, symptoms, and effective treatment methods is crucial for protecting the health of these delicate saltwater organisms.

What causes Brown Jelly?

Despite extensive research, the exact causes of Brown Jelly Disease are not clearly defined. Although the precise cause is not fully known, it is believed that various pathogens, including bacteria, are responsible for its occurrence. Different theories suggest that ciliates may also create favorable conditions for pathogen development or act as secondary factors in the disease progression. Brown Jelly often appears on corals that have been physically damaged, indicating that the weakening of their natural protective barrier promotes infection.

Other studies suggest that the microorganisms responsible for the disease may be present in the aquarium due to poor sanitation or transfer from another infected tank. Brown Jelly can also develop as a result of coral stress caused by improper water parameters, such as unstable pH, temperature, or excessive nitrogen compounds.

Diagnosing the Disease

Symptoms of Brown Jelly are usually easy to spot. A brown, jelly-like substance appears on the corals, often emitting an unpleasant smell. An infected coral may also show signs of weakening, such as not opening its polyps, fading colors, or rotting. Early detection is crucial as it allows for prompt action to limit the spread of the infection to other corals.

Preventive Measures

Preventing diseases in a reef aquarium is always better than treating them. Regularly testing water parameters, maintaining stable environmental conditions, and isolating new corals before introducing them to the main tank are fundamental steps that can significantly reduce the risk of Brown Jelly Disease. It’s also important to avoid excessive relocation and handling of corals, which can lead to damage, stress, and increased susceptibility to infections.

The most important step upon detecting the disease is isolating the infected coral. It’s recommended to move it to a quarantine tank to prevent the disease from spreading. During this time, it’s crucial to turn off all circulation devices in the main aquarium to limit the spread of pathogens.

Treatment Methods

Antibiotic Therapy

Treating Brown Jelly disease with antibiotics such as Ciprofloxacin requires special attention to dosage and the duration of therapy. Here’s how to properly use Ciprofloxacin for treating this disease:

• Preparation of solution: Dissolve 500 mg of Ciprofloxacin in 50 ml of RO/DI water to obtain a solution with a concentration of 10 mg/ml. Store the solution in a dark container in the refrigerator to prevent degradation of the medication.
• Dosage: Calculate the dose based on the amount of water in your aquarium. For example, for a tank with a capacity of 38 liters, use 0.475 ml of the prepared solution. This dosage provides the required drug concentration of 0.125 mg/l. 
  •  Calculating the dose for the aquarium
    •  Calculate the total required amount of Ciprofloxacin: Multiply the capacity of the aquarium by the recommended concentration of 0.125 mg per liter. 38 liters (10 gal) ×0.125 mg/l=4.75 mg
    • Convert to solution volume: You now need to divide the amount of Ciprofloxacin in mg by the solution concentration to get the volume in milliliters. 4.75 mg÷10 mg/ml=0.475 mlSo, you need 0.475 ml of your Ciprofloxacin solution as the dose to achieve the desired concentration in your 38-liter (10 gal) aquarium.
• Application: Add the appropriate amount of solution directly to the aquarium, preferably in the evening, to minimize impact on sensitive organisms.
• Duration of therapy: Continue adding the solution every two days for a period of 7 to 10 days, monitoring the condition of the corals and water parameters such as pH, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, and carbonate hardness (kH).
• Observation: Regularly observe the corals’ response to the treatment. It is important to monitor the health of the corals and the stability of the water parameters.
• End of treatment: After completing the treatment, perform a partial water change and turn the protein skimmer and carbon filters back on to remove any antibiotic residues from the water.
• Additional precautions: Always follow the dosing recommendations and do not exceed the recommended dose. If there is no improvement or if adverse reactions occur, consult with an experienced aquarist or a specialist in coral diseases.

There are many methods and dosages related to antibiotic therapy, but I prefer this particular variant. I have discussed this topic with many aquarists who have confirmed the universality and effectiveness of this method.

Dipping

Dipping is a popular treatment method involving briefly immersing corals in a therapeutic solution. There are specialized products available for coral disease management, such as those based on iodine or potassium salts, which can be used for regular coral dips to eliminate pathogens. It’s important to strictly follow the manufacturer’s instructions to avoid harming the corals.

One commonly used solution is povidone-iodine, which is effective against many pathogens. The dipping solution is prepared by mixing 10 ml of iodine per 1 liter of clean seawater. Corals should be dipped for about 10-15 minutes. This procedure can be repeated every few days while continuously monitoring the coral’s condition.

Additional Treatment Strategies

Amputation

In advanced stages of the disease, more invasive methods like amputation of infected parts of the coral can be considered. Although a difficult decision, sometimes it’s necessary to remove significant portions of the coral to prevent the disease from spreading to healthy tissues and other corals in the tank. Amputation should involve removing the infected tissue along with a small margin of healthy tissue to ensure that all infected tissue is completely removed.

Improving Aquarium Conditions

Changing aquarium conditions, such as improving water circulation or adjusting mineral levels, can also contribute to improving the health of corals. Stable conditions are crucial for maintaining coral resilience against various diseases.

Summary

Brown Jelly is a serious disease that can cause significant harm to a coral reef, especially to euphyllia corals. However, with proper knowledge and methods, we can effectively prevent its spread and negative effects. Regularly monitoring the aquarium’s condition, using proper quarantine procedures, accurately applying medications and dips, and managing the coral’s living environment are crucial for maintaining the health and beauty of the coral reef, including the stunning euphyllia corals.

Other Reefers have done the following to treat Brown Jelly Disease

HI reefers.
Hope all well. Off late i had been losing my torch coral heads one after another. Despite fragging the frag head could not survive the slow decay and finally Brown jelly was Visible just before its last breath. I searched various Forum and also read how Antibiotics can help in killing Arcobacter responsible for BJD. Here is What I decided to undertake before loosing my first ever coral to disease.
Preparations
Step-1. Ensuring Water Parameters are OK and Stable.
Step 2. Ensuring No Other Toxicity is Present in reef to avoid likelihood of other variables in play.
Step-3. Dosing Enough bacteria and probiotics to ensure some healthy bacteria colony is present.
Step-4. Avoid Direct feeding Roids etc to Torch
Step-5. Ensure UV is Installed

Experiment
Step-1. Arrange Kcl (Potassium Chloride ) and Iodine or Pyodine (10% Iodine) a Normal Wound Scrubber.
Take out 500ml in a can and put orch Coral in it. Add 3-5 Vials of Kcl and 5ml Pyodine over Torcha nd Stir.
Leave it for 15-30 Mins in Reef water Floating so Temp remains Stable.
Very Important to Strongly Rinse Torch Coral after few Minutes to blew Away and jelly Type White Substance emerging out of Torch.
SHift Torch to Another 500 ml Clean tank Water and Put Revive in it.
After 10-15 mins, Rinse and Put back the Torch.
Repeat This process daily for 3 Days. and Then let Torch Rest for 3-5 days.

Step-2. Antibiotics Treatment
Take a 500mg Ciprofloxacin and crush it and mix in 50 ml RODI water. Refrigerate it after good mixing.
Keep a capsule of Amoxillin Antibiotic
Vibrant being Algaecide
Revive ex TLF to heal if needed.
Take out Torch Coral in a 500 ml tank water and put 5ml of Cipro Solution and Rinse
Add a Pinch of Amoxillin Capsule and Mix in same water.
Put Few Drops of Vibrant and place it in reef floating to maintain temperature.
After 40-45 mins, Take out Torch and put it in other 500ml clean tank water and add revivce for 15 Mins.
Rinse and put Torch Coral back in Aquarium
Repeat 2nd and 3rd bath same way daily for next 2 days.
Give Rest of 2-3 days and Observe.
Give 4th and 5th bath with 2 days gap in between each bath.
Let Torch Rest.

Video Explanation and After Results: At my YouTube Channel” MQReef ”

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Don’t you take a shower or bath EVERY DAY!

Why Do Chickens Dust Bathe?

 
A healthy and good smelling hen NEEDS to take a dust bath on a regular basis. Chances are if your bird stinks she does not have access to a dust bath and if she doesn’t have access to a bath, the probability is higher that your flock will carry lice and mites.

For those of you that have watched chickens dust bathing, I think you will agree that it is not only comical, but shows your hens in the utmost state of contentedness.
During the act of dust bathing, chickens will do their best to get as much “dirt” as they can all over their bodies down to the base of their feathers.  This in turn actually cleans the chicken (see ingredients below) and will asphyxiate any pests that may potentially prey on them.

If you let your hens free range and DON’T provide a dust bath in the coop/run, I guarantee that they WILL make a dust bath where your favorite plants are growing.  If you do not let your hens free range, or they are limited to free ranging because of Winter conditions, than it is essential that they have access to a dust bath. The need is ingrained in their behavior and essential to their personal health.  So…… why not build a dust bath in your chicken run?

How to Make a Dust Bath for Chickens 

In order to get started, you will need a container for the dust bath.  I only have 3 hens and an old apple crate that is around 12 “deep, 15″ wide and 24” long works well for this application.  If you have a larger flock, you will need a larger container.  I’ve seen kiddy pools used for this purpose and they appear to work well.

Next, you are going to need to fill the dust bath with 4 essential ingredients.   The 4 ingredients that you will need are:

• Builder’s sand (don’t waste your money on the more expensive kid’s play sand).
• Wood ash – I get the ash from my wood stove and take out the larger charcoal pieces with a cat litter scooper.
• Soil – If you are purchasing soil, make sure it is fertilizer, chemical and vermiculite free.
• Diatomaceous Earth Make sure it is FOOD -GRADE and not for use in pools.  The bag MUST read For LIVESTOCK FEED.  See more on Diatomaceous Earth in on following page.

Add equal parts of each ingredient to the mixture and top up when necessary.  You will know that your hens are using the dust bath if:

1. You find some of the “bath” contents on the floor of the run.
2. You see them nestled up together in the crate throwing dirt on each other.
3. They are free ranging and suddenly shake from comb to feet and a cloud of dust emerges around your hen.

So……before it gets too cold or your chickens destroy your prized petunias, why not make them a dust bath.  They’ll thank you with being vermin free and consistently giving you all the eggs that they are capable of laying.

source

Here is another way on How to Make a Dust Bath for Chickens 

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Inside a Chicken Coop: 8 Essential Features

 

What makes the inside of a chicken coop a healthy home for your chickens and a place that they’ll love to come back to every night? Here, we’ll explore 8 interior features of a chicken coop to discover why each feature is important and how it contributes to the health and safety of your chickens.

So what should be inside a chicken coop? Let’s take a look at some essential features.

Roosting Perch

One of the most important things to have inside an A-frame chicken coop or any coop is roosts for your chickens. Chickens sleep best in the air, so providing a roost for your chickens inside the coop is very important. In unprotected environments, chickens sleep on roosts to protect themselves from predators.

Although this isn’t necessary for a closed coop, sleeping on a roost keeps chickens off the floor, where they are more susceptible to bacteria and disease. Roosts should be constructed from a material such as wood rather than metal or PVC.

Roosts should be installed higher than the nesting boxes since chickens will usually seek out the highest perch for sleeping. Depending on the height at which you set your roosting perches, you may need to install a chicken coop ramp so your chickens can easily access their resting spot.

A sturdy roost that is large enough to accommodate all the chickens is one of the most important interior features of a chicken coop.

Nesting boxes

The inside of a chicken coop should always have nesting boxes for your laying hens. Nesting boxes provide a quiet place for your chickens to lay eggs and a convenient place for you to find the eggs in time for breakfast.

The nesting boxes should be kept as dark as possible and installed lower than the roosting bar to prevent chickens from pooping in them. Recommendations for how many boxes should be provided per chicken vary, but a safe guide is 4-5 chickens per box. The boxes can be lined with a dry bedding material such as wood shavings or chopped straw, which should be changed periodically to prevent the buildup of harmful bacteria.

Chickens prefer to nest and lay eggs in soft bedding, but they should not be sleeping or loitering in the boxes for very long. Nesting boxes are provided solely to lay eggs.

Insulation

Although your coop should be well-ventilated, it should not be drafty. Cracks and small openings should be closed to keep snakes, mice, and other rodents from entering. Another important insulation factor to consider is ceiling insulation. Insulation in the ceiling helps to keep the coop cooler during the hot summer months.

If your coop has a metal roof, you’ll want to have insulation installed between the roof metal and framing during the construction of the coop. If your coop has an asphalt shingle roof, be sure to use Tech Shield roof sheathing as a barrier against excessive heat from the sun. Tech Shield sheathing usually provides adequate protection against heat and no additional insulation is needed in the ceiling of your coop.

Lighting

Adequate lighting is important, especially if your chickens will spend a significant amount of time inside the coop. Since a chicken’s reproductive cycles are regulated by natural light, your chickens may stop producing eggs if they lack enough light.

Windows are the best way to let in natural light during the daytime. An artificial, soft, yellow light can be used inside the coop during winter months in the Northern Hemisphere with fewer daylight hours. However, a continuous light inside the coop is not recommended.

Artificial lighting should be used with caution as it can tamper with a chicken’s natural reproductive cycles. (you may be interested in this well-written article on using supplemental lighting to promote egg production)

Air Quality

You should pay attention to the air quality in your coop. One of the biggest causes of poor air quality inside a chicken coop is ammonia. Ammonia is released from fresh or moist chicken feces and can be bad for the health of your chickens if it reaches high levels (read this helpful article about ammonia and chickens).

Providing adequate ventilation is a key component to controlling the levels of ammonia in the air inside a barn-style chicken coop. Vents should be positioned to remove contaminated air from the top of the coop without making the coop feel drafty. The best position for vents is usually near the top of the coop.

Litter Trays

Chickens poop while sleeping, so using a litter tray under the chicken roost is a great way to make cleaning the coop easier. Chicken feces should be removed from the coop frequently to help control ammonia levels (see the section on ventilation).

A litter tray makes frequent removal of the majority of the waste that collects in a coop possible. The litter tray should be cleaned daily, or at least weekly as a bare minimum. Simply pull out the tray, scrape the chicken feces onto your compost pile, and replace it. You’ll be able to complete this step in minutes if you make it a part of your morning egg-gathering routine.

Tip: Line your litter tray with newspaper to make frequent cleaning super easy!

Choosing the right floor for your chicken coop is very important for your chickens’ health and happiness. The right flooring can also make your life a lot easier, after all, you’re the one who has to build, clean, and maintain it. There are many flooring options for a chicken coop such as concrete, timber boards, plywood, wire mesh or dirt. There are also many options for covering your chicken coop flooring to make it easier to clean or more comfortable for your chickens, we’ll talk about some options below.

Concrete chicken coop flooring

Concrete is the longest lasting and most durable chicken coop flooring option. The hard surface prevents burrowing rodents and other predators from getting into your coop through the floor, it is also easy to clean and very low maintenance. The down side of concrete is that it is expensive and means that your chicken coop will have to stay in the same location with its permanent concrete floor. It can also be very cold, so if you live in a cold climate then you should use a deep bedding on top of it to keep it warmer for your chickens. Concrete is the ideal flooring for chicken owners who want an easy-to-maintain flooring option for their chicken coop in a permanent location.

Pros	Cons
Very durable Easy to clean Very low maintenance Burrowing predators can’t get through it	Expensive Permanent Hassle to install Cold in winter

In the picture above you can see on the left side the clean timber board floor and on the right it has been covered with wood chip bedding that absorbs the poop

Timber board chicken coop flooring

Wood is probably the most common material used for chicken coop flooring. It is strong, easy to build and it also provides some insulation for cold environments. Timber flooring is often used in relocatable chicken coops with the flooring set up off the ground a couple of inches. The timber boards give relocatable coops extra strength which helps to prevent the building getting damaged when being moved.

Unfortunately timber boards are a bit more difficult to clean than concrete because of the rough wood grain surface and the cracks in between the boards where dirt can get stuck in. The gaps between the boards are also popular hiding spots for red mites. Wooden chicken coop flooring will not last as long as concrete, especially if you’re in a damp climate. If you’re choosing a wooden flooring we suggest that you cover it with a few coats of paint to make it easier to clean and make sure the timber is at least H3 treated to prevent it rotting. You can also cover it with plastic, rubber or linoleum to make it easier to clean, we’ll talk more about these options below.

Pros	Cons
Affordable Easy to build Good insulation Good option for relocatable coops	Harder to clean than concrete Gaps between boards hide red mites Won’t last as long as concrete

Plywood chicken coop flooring

Plywood is a laminated wooden sheet that can easily be cut to fit your chicken coop floor. Like wooden boards it is strong, easy to build/install and provides good insulation for your chicken coop. The added advantage of plywood is it doesn’t have any gaps between boards for red mites hide or dirt to get stuck in. This makes it a bit easier to clean. A thick plywood (at least 12mm) is also harder for rodents or predators to get in through than timber boards just make sure there’s no gaps big enough for small rodents to squeeze through.

Plywood is not quite as strong as timber boards so it’s not usually used for relocatable chicken coops. The plywood used should be H3 treated so that it doesn’t rot and as long as you are using bedding, or a floor covering your plywood flooring will be very easy to clean. You simply remove the droppings with the bedding.

Pros	Cons
Affordable Easy to build Good insulation	Harder to clean than concrete Won’t last as long as concrete Not as strong as timber boards

Pictured above is an inside view of an Outpost 3 bay Hen House with no floor. If you are worried about rodents getting into your chicken coop then we recommend you choose a timber floor or lay a concrete pad for your chicken coop flooring.

Dirt chicken coop flooring

You can simply use a dirt floor for you chicken coop, it is the cheapest option and dirt is a natural, soft surface for your chickens feet. Dirt flooring is commonly used for relocatable chicken coops and chicken tractors. If you move your chicken coop regularly to fresh ground your chickens will enjoy scratching in the grass and dirt and their poop will fertilize the ground.

Dirt flooring is not a good option if you have a permanent coop and live in a rainy climate as it will get muddy and messy inside your coop. It also provides no protection from predators who can burrow through dirt to get inside your chicken coop. It is also much harder to keep clean than other flooring options as you can’t just hose it off, you have to scrape off the poop with a spade.  We recommend using bedding such as wood shavings or sand if you choose a dirt floor, this will make it much easier to clean as you can just shovel out the bedding and replace it with new clean bedding as required.

Pros	Cons
Cheapest option Soft on chickens feet Good for relocatable coops or chicken tractors	Harder to clean Easy for rodents and predators to get in Can get wet and muddy

Wire mesh chicken coop flooring

Some people use wire mesh (sometimes called hardware cloth) flooring in their chicken coops. This is not a common flooring option in New Zealand but is quite common overseas for keeping predators out such as snakes and rodents. Wire mesh flooring can be easy to clean as the chicken poop falls through the mesh and can be caught on a drop sheet below, or can be swept or raked out underneath the floor. It can also used in a relocatable chicken coop so you don’t need to clean out the poop at all as the chicken coop is moved regularly to new ground and away from the mess.

This flooring option is not suitable for cold climates as it lets drafts inside and offers no insulation. You also need to be careful that the wire mesh chosen has small enough holes in it that predators can’t get through them but is strong enough that the predators can’t break the wire to get through. Be aware that chickens can injure themselves on the wire as well. If the wire mesh you choose has small holes (less than 15mm square) then the poop might not fall through, and it’d be hard to clean. If you choose wire mesh with bigger holes then rodents will be able to get through it – a mouse can get through a small 6-7 mm hole and a rat can get through a 20 mm hole.

Pros	Cons
Easy to clean if in the right coop Can help keep predators out Good for relocatable coops or chicken tractors	May be expensive or sold in large rolls Not suitable for cold climates Chickens can injure themselves on it

 

 

Chicken coop floor liner materials

The most commonly used floor liner materials are paint, linoleum, vinyl, rubber mats or plastic. If you use a thick layer of bedding such as wood shavings or sand then you probably don’t need a floor liner as all the poop gets soaked up into the bedding and the flooring won’t get dirty anyway.

Paint is definitely a good option for timber or wooden flooring. It’ll help protect the wood, make it easier to clean and prevent it from rotting if it is not treated. The paint also fills in some of the hiding spots that red mites like to live in.

Linoleum or vinyl floor coverings are often used as they are easy to clean and reasonably low cost. You do need to be careful what product you choose as some vinyl flooring is toxic and if your chickens peck at it then they can get sick. So, if you do decide to use vinyl, make sure you use a very thick layer of bedding so your chickens can’t consume the poisonous material. The quality of Linoleum and vinyl flooring products varies a lot so it might pay to get a more expensive one that will last a long time instead of having to replace it many times. It is best to staple this type of floor covering down instead of gluing it as some types of glue can be toxic and staples will also make it easier to remove and replace it you ever have to.

Rubber mats are sometimes used as a chicken coop floor covering. They offer great insulation and are easy to clean. There are many types of rubber mats available such as ones used for livestock and horse stable matting. This option is quite expensive and you’ll have to get the rubber mat custom cut to fit your chicken coop exactly.

Invest in a coop that you can move!

Outpost Chicken Coops are relocatable and designed so you can move your hens to fresh ground regularly. They come with or without a timber board floor so you can choose if you want to use a dirt, concrete or timber floor for your chicken coop. There are many circumstances where having an easy to relocate chicken coop is beneficial as well as the ability to use the chicken coop as a chicken tractor! The strong timber framing on an Outpost Chicken Coop is mounted onto heavy duty 4×4″ timber skids so you can tie your tow rope onto it and drag it around your paddock or yard. Whether we plan to stay living in the same place for long term or just short term there is no telling for sure that where you want to position your chicken coop today will be where you want it in years to come. See our blog about Relocatable Chicken Coops for more information >

One of the vital aspects of owning an aquarium is understanding the aquarium cycle. This concept plays a crucial role in maintaining the health and well-being of your aquatic pets. For newbies and even some experienced aquarium enthusiasts, this topic raises a frequently asked question: how long to cycle a tank?

What is Aquarium Cycling?

Aquarium cycling, often referred to as the aquarium nitrogen cycle, is the process that nature uses to break down toxic waste products in your tank, transforming them into less harmful substances. Fish produce waste, which if left unchecked, can be harmful or even lethal to them. Thankfully, this waste (ammonia) is consumed by beneficial bacteria in your tank, which convert it into nitrite (still harmful), and then into nitrate (less harmful and easily removed). This process is the core of your tank’s biological filtration system and is crucial for maintaining a healthy environment for your aquatic inhabitants.

The Process of Cycling a Tank

When setting up a new aquarium, it’s vital to give the tank time to establish a thriving nitrifying bacteria colony capable of handling the waste produced by your fish. This phase is what we refer to when we discuss tank cycles. In essence, cycling a tank involves setting up conditions that allow these beneficial bacteria to grow and flourish, eventually reaching a balance with the amount of waste produced in the tank.

The cycling process begins as soon as you introduce organic material into your tank, whether it’s a piece of fish food, a small amount of ammonia, or even a hardy fish (although the last method, known as “fish-in cycling”, is less preferred due to the potential stress and harm it can cause to the fish).

Beneficial bacteria then begin to colonize your tank, starting with those that convert toxic ammonia into nitrite. Next, a different set of bacteria that convert nitrite into nitrate will colonize. Both of these steps are vital to establishing the nitrogen cycle in your aquarium.

How Long Does it Take?

The time it takes to fully cycle a tank can vary significantly depending on several factors, including the size of the tank, the methods used to introduce bacteria, and the temperature of the water. However, as a general rule, most tanks will cycle in approximately 2-6 weeks. The initial stage, converting ammonia to nitrite, usually takes anywhere from a few days to a week. The second stage, converting nitrite to nitrate, can take an additional week or two.

One thing to note is that the growth of these beneficial bacteria is not linear but exponential. The colonies may take a while to establish themselves, but once they do, their numbers will increase rapidly until they reach a point of stability.

The Aquarium Cycle Timeline

In understanding the aquarium cycle timeline, patience is indeed a virtue. During the first week, you’ll introduce a source of ammonia to kickstart the cycle. By the end of this week, ammonia levels should spike, signaling the beginning of the cycling process.

In the second week, nitrite levels should begin to rise as nitrite-producing bacteria start to multiply. Ammonia levels should start to fall, indicating that ammonia is being converted into nitrites.

By the third week, nitrate levels should start to rise as nitrite is converted into nitrate. Nitrite and ammonia levels should begin to fall. By the end of the fourth week or into the fifth week, ammonia and nitrite levels should reach zero, indicating that your tank is fully cycled.

Keep in mind that this is a general timeline, and actual times may vary. Testing your water regularly throughout the process will provide the most accurate assessment of your tank’s cycle status.

Conclusion

Cycling the aquarium is one of the first and most critical steps to setting up a healthy and stable environment for your fish. Understanding and carefully managing the cycling process can make the difference between a thriving, balanced ecosystem and a problematic, unhealthy tank.

Although the timeline may seem long and the process tedious, bear in mind that patience and attentiveness are vital to ensure the well-being of your aquatic pets. One cannot hurry the cycle, for nature moves at its own pace. While it may be tempting to rush and introduce your fish into their new home, the wait will be worthwhile when you see them happily swimming and thriving in a well-cycled aquarium.

Moreover, the knowledge you gain from the process can be a springboard for exploring more about aquarium care and maintenance. The more you understand the biology of your tank, the better equipped you’ll be to troubleshoot potential issues, adapt to changing conditions, and ensure the continued success of your aquarium.

Even after the initial cycling process, the nitrogen cycle will continue to play a vital role in your tank’s health. Regular water testing and changes, as well as attentive care, can help maintain a balanced aquarium nitrogen cycle.

The question of how long to cycle a tank has a somewhat complex answer. It depends on various factors, but the essential point to remember is the importance of the process itself. Cycling is not a step to be rushed or overlooked but rather a fundamental building block for a thriving aquarium.

In conclusion, starting an aquarium is more than merely setting up a tank with water and fish. It involves understanding and appreciating the delicate balance of nature within your very home. By respecting the aquarium cycle timeline and allowing the beneficial bacteria to establish and multiply, you set the stage for a healthy, vibrant underwater world for your aquatic pets to enjoy.

In the end, the careful practice of patience and diligent care during your tank’s cycle process will reward you with a thriving aquatic ecosystem that not only adds aesthetic value to your space but also serves as a testament to your dedication to the well-being of your aquatic friends. After all, a well-cycled tank is the first step towards a happy and healthy aquarium.

A well-cycled aquarium not only represents the physical space your fish live in but also mirrors the balanced, interconnected cycles of the natural world. This cycle, when well maintained and respected, leads to a healthy, vibrant environment that will captivate, educate, and inspire for years to come. source

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Preferences of Nitrifying Bacteria

TurboStart® 700 and 900 both contain 15 times the cell count per ounce than that of the FritzZyme® formulas and must be kept refrigerated until used. Use TurboStart® whenever sensitive fish or invertebrates are living in the tank, when stress is seen in the animals or when levels are above 1 ppm. TurboStart® users have cited the elimination of ammonia and nitrite in as little as 36 hours; standard dosages fully cycle systems (with up to 3 ppm ammonia) in less than five days. Experienced hobbyists can begin with beautiful, sensitive fish. New hobbyists should start with starter fish and can successfully add sensitive fish much sooner. As ammonia increases, the Nitrosomonas/Nitrosococcus populations will multiply, decreasing the ammonia level and causing the nitrite to rise. The Nitrobacter/Nitrococcus populations will then increase, eliminating the nitrite.

Medication & Nitrifying Bacteria

Nitrifying bacteria are gram (-) rods up to 2 microns long; most pathogens are also gram (-). Most antibiotics equally affect both nitrifiers and pathogens. Other inhibitory chemicals include formalin, formaldehyde, chlorine, chloramine, malachite green, methylene blue, acriflavine, disinfectants (ex: Windex), copper (at 0.20 mg/L or higher), potassium permanganate and chloroquine. Always perform a 30% water change and add fresh Fritz Carbon after using any of these chemicals to assure residual by-products have been removed. Then add FritzZyme® Nitrifying Bacteria products to re-introduce nitrifiers.

Chemical Ammonia Removers & Nitrifiers

Ammonia removers must be examined on a case-by-case basis since different formulations pose different risks. Avoid any containing formalin- whether you are cycling or not. Formalin (a form of formaldehyde) is inhibitory to nitrifiers already established in the filter, as well as those contained in both FritzZyme® and TurboStart®. Many ammonia removers drop pH; others are loaded with phosphates. If your tap water contains chloramine (chlorine bonded to ammonia), you should use FritzGuard or Prime  and follow with the immediate addition of Fritz A.C.C.R. (Chlorine, Chloramine & Ammonia Remover).

UV Sterilizers, Protein Skimmers & Ozone Generators

Nitrifiers prefer to remain attached to the filter after the initial inoculation, which takes approximately five days depending on temperatures. Until attached, the bacteria are in danger of being removed via mechanical/chemical filtration equipment. Turn off UV sterilizers, ozone generators, protein skimmers and remove sub-micron mechanical filter media (5 microns or less) before adding bacteria. Allow five days before turning them back on.

Temperature & Salinity

It is best practice to cycle all systems within the optimal range of 77-86°F. After cycling, cold water tanks can be safely lowered slowly over several days. If systems cannot be cycled within this range, use double the standard dosage. In colder temperatures, expect cycling to take slightly more time. Nitrobacter/Nitrococcus are more sensitive to low temperatures, thus cold water tanks are more likely to develop nitrite problems. Freshwater nitrifiers are tolerant of salinities (salt levels) of 0 – 20 PPT while saltwater nitrifiers prefer salinities ranging from 20 – 44 PPT.

pH and Alkalinity while cycling

Due to the pH preferences of their nitrifying bacteria, fresh and saltwater systems differ in their tendencies to accumulate ammonia/nitrite. Marine hobbyists should pay particular attention to nitrite levels while cycling, and freshwater hobbyists should watch for ammonia. The stability of the pH is incredibly important to the bacteria. Through nitrification, a decrease in bicarbonates and an increase in carbon dioxide occurs, lowering the pH. If alkalinity is initially low, the pH swing can be large. Initial bicarb levels of 100-200 mg/L are desirable.

Dissolved Oxygen

Below 2-3 mg/L of dissolved oxygen (DO), nitrification won’t occur. Complete oxidation of ammonia requires 4.57 mg. oxygen per 1 mg. ammonia. For best results, D.O. levels should be above 80% saturation (at least 6 mg/L). Nitrobacter/Nitrococcus are very sensitive to low D.O. levels; at low D.O. levels, nitrite problems begin. Bio-filters often accumulate sludge, restricting flow through parts of the filter; this is called channeling. Channeling cultivates anaerobic bacteria, produces toxic compounds and inhibits nitrifiers. Frequently adding beneficial heterotrophic bacteria “tank-cleaners” as found in FritzZyme® 360 Freshwater Aquarium Cleaner and FritzZyme® 460 Saltwater Aquarium Cleaner will eliminate these pockets of sludge and prevent anaerobic areas in both the filter and gravel.

Odor and Appearance

Nitrifiers have a slightly earthy smell and are rosy to dark brown in color. Batches vary slightly in color and odor. Neither color nor odor are indicative of the viability of culture. Each batch is individually tested and must pass quality control before shipping. Always use before expiration date printed on bottle. source

source

let’s just acknowledge here that there are no single, perfect phytoplankton species. Given the different nutritional demands and feeding requirements of diverse marine life, there isn’t even a truly perfect blend. It is possible, however, to strike a reasonable balance by carefully blending the “right” cohort of species in the “right” proportions to meet the basic needs of a wide variety of captive animals. Such a balance, we believe, was achieved with OceanMagik. This unique blend formerly included the following:]

• NANNO (Nannochloropsis gaditana), a tiny unflagellated yellow/green algae of 1-5 microns in size; a great source of the polyunsaturated Omega-3 fatty acid eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and a heavy consumer of nitrogenous wastes (e.g. ammonia and nitrate).
• TET (Tetraselmis sp.), green biflagellated algae of 6-10 microns in size; a good source of lipids, amino acids and the Omega-3 fatty acid docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) as well as EPA.
• ISO (Isochrysis galbana), golden brown biflagellate algae of 10-14 microns in size; rich in DHA, it is often used to enrich live foods such as copepods and brine shrimp and is readily accepted by many filter-feeding bivalve mollusks (e.g. clams, scallops, oysters and mussels).
• THAL (Thalassiosira weissflogii), a relatively large, green/brown unflagellated algae of 5-32 microns in size, which is more available to large-particle filter-feeders; this diatom consumes excess silicate.

And the new formula? Simply swap the centric diatom Thalassiosira weissflogii with the similarly sized pennate diatom Phaeodactylum tricornutum, otherwise known as PHAEO.

Phytoplankton Species and their individual Strengths

When purchasing live foods for your tank, many people simply take the shop employee’s advice when handed a jar of unidentified copepods for their reef tank. Most do not research into the different species of copepods, we just understand that they are a major element of our clean up crews and that our fish love snacking on them. But, what if you want to actually make sure you are getting the best option available, and not just whatever the local fish shop has in stock this week? Many aquarists turn to buy the copepods online for this reason, as online retailers typically understand the differences between species and explain them on each individual product’s page. After reading the pages of each individual species, many are left wondering “what do copepods eat?” Aside from detritus and fish food, most species we add to our tanks also eat algae and phytoplankton. But, there is also about a half dozen species of phyto available to hobbyists. Here, we will go into detail on each species and their benefits to your tank. These live foods can be added to your tank to do more than just feed microfauna. Phytoplankton in and of itself discourages nuisance algae growth and coral polyp extension and feeding!

Isochrysis Galbana

Iso is a mobile alga, two flagella are used for locomotion. It is high in DHA (Docosahexaenoic Acid), which plays a major role in nervous system development. Fucoxanthin, a carotenoid found in these single-celled algae, is being found to make cancer and tumor cells undergo programmed cell death. In addition, Fucoxanthin was shown to reduce weight and decrease insulin resistance in animals diagnosed with obesity. And let’s be honest, we all have some fish that are a little chubby! Due to its nutritional value, it is one of the phytoplankton used to enrich copepods, Brine, mysids, rotifers, or other live foods to make them more beneficial to the consumers. Iso is also one of the most prominent feeds used in bivalve (such as clam) hatchery facilities due to its nutritional profile. So, this is a great option for feeding your tank! Nearly all bivalves, corals, and filter feeders will accept Isochrysis.

Nannochloropsis

This is a genus comprised of 6 different species that can only be distinguished from one another by genetic sequence analysis. Because of this, most cultures contain more than one species of Nano. Unlike Iso, these algae are not mobile and can actually be found in fresh, brackish, and full saltwater environments. As such, freshwater clams and filter feeders can also benefit from the freshwater cultures of Nano. Nannochloropsis is able to accumulate huge amounts of astaxanthin, a pigment that improves red, yellow, and orange coloration. Zeaxanthin is carotenoid alcohol, and can also be found in Nano. It is also a pigment that enhances red, yellow, and orange colors. Spirulina is another source of this pigment. Finally, the pigment Canthaxanthin is also present in this phytoplankton. As with the other two substances, it enhances gold, yellow, and orange colors. Nano is also rich in EPA. Basically, this phytoplankton can help your livestock’s pink, red, orange, and yellow colors deepen and pop. Who doesn’t love naturally brilliantly colored animals?

Due to the fast-growing and quick reproduction of Nano, it can be added to the aquarium to hinder the growth of unwanted pest algae. It will easily outcompete these other species and is easily caught and consumed by all filter feeders, so it will not become a nuisance in and of itself. These properties, along with its three-month shelf life when refrigerated, make it a top choice for aquarists. So, what do copepods eat? Well, this phytoplankton may be one of the best options!

Tetraselmis Suecica

Tet is single-celled, motile algae. Although not as much information is easily available on this species, it is known to be rich in lipids, DHA, EPA, and arginine. Arginine is an important amino acid, as it is a neurotransmitter that aids in blood circulation. It also has a role in injury healing, removing toxins like ammonia from the body, and maintaining a healthy immune system. To keep your fish and inverts in top shape, it is easy to understand why an arginine-rich diet is beneficial. It is also one of the most carbohydrate-rich microalgae, which means it has more digestible glucose than other phytoplankton. Pods and other foods enriched with Tet are an easy addition to your feeding regimen that can keep your fish as healthy as possible!

Thalassiosira Weissflogii

Also occurring in fresh, brackish, and full saltwater, Thal is technically a diatom that is not motile. It can grow in less-than-stellar water conditions, including in chlorinated water! Iron, nickel, zinc, nitrogen, and silicates are all used by Thalassiosira, and these are limiting factors for its growth. This means if you discover that you have high metal concentrations in your tank through ICP or lab testing, adding Thal can greatly benefit your tank by removing these potential dangers. Due to the fact that it actively uses and depletes silicate in aquaria, it can be dosed to outcompete nuisance diatoms that grow over our sand and rocks. Thal is preferred by many filter feeders as it is larger in size than the other species on this list and can be used by older fry and larval invertebrates. And, individuals attach to one another and can form longer chains of Thal, so even the coarsest of filter feeders can utilize this species.

Closing Thoughts

As we can see from the above information, live phytoplankton has many benefits to offer your tank and livestock. If you find yourself wondering “what do copepods eat,” “what else can I feed my corals,” “how can I grow my pod population,” or “what are some natural defenses to nuisance algae” it may be time to look towards implementing a dosing regimen for phytoplankton. If you want to get the best bang for your buck, many companies are now offering mixed-species cultures to feed your livestock, so you get the benefits of each individual phyto. Some even include species not covered in this article, but these four types are some of the most prominent and beneficial ones available to hobbyists.

What are Phytoplankton?

Like land plants, phytoplankton have chlorophyll to capture sunlight, and they use photosynthesis to turn it into chemical energy. They consume carbon dioxide, and release oxygen. All phytoplankton photosynthesize, but some get additional energy by consuming other organisms.

Phytoplankton growth depends on the availability of carbon dioxide, sunlight, and nutrients. Phytoplankton, like land plants, require nutrients such as nitrate, phosphate, silicate, and calcium at various levels depending on the species. Some phytoplankton canfix nitrogenand can grow in areas where nitrate concentrations are low. They also require trace amounts of iron which limits phytoplankton growth in large areas of the ocean because iron concentrations are very low. Other factors influence phytoplankton growth rates, including water temperature and salinity, water depth, wind, and what kinds of predators are grazing on them.

When conditions are right, phytoplankton populations can grow explosively, a phenomenon known as a bloom. Blooms in the ocean may cover hundreds of square kilometers and are easily visible in satellite images. A bloom may last several weeks, but the life span of any individual phytoplankton is rarely more than a few days.

Importance of phytoplankton

The food web

Phytoplankton are the foundation of theaquatic food web,theprimary producers, feeding everything from microscopic, animal-like zooplankton to multi-ton whales. Small fish and invertebrates also graze on the plant-like organisms, and then those smaller animals are eaten by bigger ones.

Phytoplankton can also be the harbingers of death or disease. Certain species of phytoplankton produce powerful biotoxins, making them responsible for so-called “red tides,” or harmful algal blooms. These toxic blooms can kill marine life and people who eat contaminated seafood.

Phytoplankton cause mass mortality in other ways. In the aftermath of a massive bloom, dead phytoplankton sink to the ocean or lake floor. The bacteria that decompose the phytoplankton deplete the oxygen in the water, suffocating animal life; the result is adead zone.

Climate and the Carbon Cycle

Through photosynthesis, phytoplankton consume carbon dioxide on a scale equivalent to forests and other land plants. Some of this carbon is carried to the deep ocean when phytoplankton die, and some is transferred to different layers of the ocean as phytoplankton are eaten by other creatures, which themselves reproduce, generate waste, and die.

Worldwide, this “biological carbon pump” transfers about 10 gigatonnes of carbon from the atmosphere to the deep ocean each year. Even small changes in the growth of phytoplankton may affect atmospheric carbon dioxide concentrations, which would feed back to global surface temperatures.

The Aquatic Food Web

Studying phytoplankton

Phytoplankton samples can be taken directly from the water at permanent observation stations or from ships. Sampling devices include hoses and flasks to collect water samples, and sometimes, plankton are collected on filters dragged through the water behind a ship.

Samples may be sealed and put on ice and transported for laboratory analysis, where researchers may be able to identify the phytoplankton collected down to the genus or even species level through microscopic investigation or genetic analysis.

Although samples taken from the ocean are necessary for some studies, satellites are pivotal for global-scale studies of phytoplankton and their role in climate change. Individual phytoplankton are tiny, but when they bloom by the billions, the high concentrations of chlorophyll and other light-catching pigments change the way the surface reflects light.

In natural-color satellite images (top), phytoplankton appear as colorful swirls. Scientists use these observations to estimate chlorophyll concentration (bottom) in the water. These images show a bloom near Kamchatka on June 2, 2010. (Images by Robert Simmon and Jesse Allen, based onMODISdata.)

The water may turn greenish, reddish, or brownish. The chalky scales that cover coccolithophores color the water milky white or bright blue. Scientists use these changes in ocean color to estimate chlorophyll concentration and the biomass of phytoplankton in the ocean.

 

Global Patterns and Cycles

Differences from place to place

Phytoplankton thrive along coastlines and continental shelves, along the equator in the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, and in high-latitude areas. Winds play a strong role in the distribution of phytoplankton because they drive currents that cause deep water, loaded with nutrients, to be pulled up to the surface.

These upwelling zones, including one along the equator maintained by the convergence of the easterly trade winds, and others along the western coasts of several continents, are among the most productive ocean ecosystems. By contrast, phytoplankton are scarce in remote ocean gyres due to nutrient limitations.

Phytoplankton are most abundant (yellow, high chlorophyll) in high latitudes and in upwelling zones along the equator and near coastlines. They are scarce in remote oceans (dark blue), where nutrient levels are low. This map shows the average chlorophyll concentration in the global oceans from July 2002–May 2010.View animation:small(5 MB)large(18 MB). (NASA image by Jesse Allen & Robert Simmon, based on MODIS data from the GSFCOcean Colorteam.)

Differences from season to season

Like plants on land, phytoplankton growth varies seasonally. In high latitudes, blooms peak in the spring and summer, when sunlight increases and the relentless mixing of the water by winter storms subsides. Recent research suggests the vigorous winter mixing sets the stage for explosive spring growth by bringing nutrients up from deeper waters into the sunlit layers at the surface and separating phytoplankton from their zooplankton predators.

In the subtropical oceans, by contrast, phytoplankton populations drop off in summer. As surface waters warm up through the summer, they become very buoyant. With warm, buoyant water on top and cold, dense water below, the water column doesn’t mix easily. Phytoplankton use up the nutrients available, and growth falls off until winter storms kick-start mixing.

In lower-latitude areas, including the Arabian Sea and the waters around Indonesia, seasonal blooms are often linked to monsoon-related changes in winds. As the winds reverse direction (offshore versus onshore), they alternately enhance or suppress upwelling, which changes nutrient concentrations. In the equatorial upwelling zone, there is very little seasonal change in phytoplankton productivity.

In spring and summer, phytoplankton bloom at high latitudes and decline in subtropical latitudes. These maps show average chlorophyll concentration in May 2003–2010 (left) and November 2002–2009 (right) in the Pacific Ocean. (NASA images by Jesse Allen & Robert Simmon, based on MODIS data from the GSFCOcean Colorteam.)

Differences from year to year

The biggest influence on year-to-year differences in global phytoplankton productivity is the El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO) climate pattern. ENSO cycles are significant changes from typical sea surface temperatures, wind patterns, and rainfall in the Pacific Ocean along the equator.

During EL Niño events, phytoplankton productivity in the equatorial Pacific declines dramatically as the easterly trade winds that normally drive upwelling grow still or even reverse direction. The transition between El Niño and its counterpart, La Niña, is sometimes accompanied by a dramatic surge in phytoplankton productivity as upwelling of nutrient-rich deep water is suddenly renewed.

During an El Niño (December 1997, left), upwelling in the equatorial Pacific slows, reducing phytoplankton density. In contrast, a La Niña increases upwelling in the same area, enhancing phytoplankton growth (December 1998, right). (NASA image by Jesse Allen & Robert Simmon, based on SeaWiFS data from the GSFCOcean Colorteam.)

El Niño events influence weather patterns beyond the Pacific; in the eastern Indian Ocean around Indonesia, for example, phytoplankton productivity increases during El Niño. Productivity in the Gulf of Mexico and the western sub-tropical Atlantic has increased during El Niño events in the past decade, probably because increased rainfall and runoff delivered more nutrients than usual.

Compared to the ENSO-related changes in the productivity in the tropical Pacific, year-to-year differences in productivity in mid- and high latitudes are small.

Long-term changes in phytoplankton

Productivity

Because phytoplankton are so crucial to ocean biology and climate, any change in their productivity could have a significant influence on biodiversity, fisheries and the human food supply, and the pace of global warming.

Many models of ocean chemistry and biology predict that as the ocean surface warms in response to increasing atmospheric greenhouse gases, phytoplankton productivity will decline. Productivity is expected to drop because as the surface waters warm, the water column becomes increasinglystratified; there is less vertical mixing to recycle nutrients from deep waters back to the surface.

About 70% of the ocean is permanently stratified into layers that don’t mix well. Between late 1997 and mid-2008, satellites observed that warmer-than-average temperatures (red line) led to below-average chlorophyll concentrations (blue line) in these areas. (Graph adapted fromBehrenfeld et al. 2009by Robert Simmon.)

Over the past decade, scientists have begun looking for this trend in satellite observations, and early studies suggest there has been a small decrease in global phytoplankton productivity. For example, ocean scientists documented an increase in the area of subtropical ocean gyres—the least productive ocean areas—over the past decade. These low-nutrient “marine deserts” appear to be expanding due to rising ocean surface temperatures.

Species composition

Hundreds of thousands of species of phytoplankton live in Earth’s oceans, each adapted to particular water conditions. Changes in water clarity, nutrient content, and salinity change the species that live in a given place.

Because larger plankton require more nutrients, they have a greater need for the vertical mixing of the water column that restocks depleted nutrients. As the ocean has warmed since the 1950s, it has become increasingly stratified, which cuts off nutrient recycling.

Continued warming due to the build up of carbon dioxide is predicted to reduce the amounts of larger phytoplankton such as diatoms), compared to smaller types, like cyanobacteria. Shifts in the relative abundance of larger versus smaller species of phytoplankton have been observed already in places around the world, but whether it will change overall productivity remains uncertain.

As carbon dioxide concentrations (blue line) increase in the next century, oceans will become more stratified. As upwelling declines, populations of larger phytoplankton such as diatoms are predicted to decline (green line). (Graph adapted fromBopp 2005by Robert Simmon.)

These shifts in species composition may be benign, or they may result in a cascade of negative consequences throughout the marine food web. Accurate global mapping of phytoplankton taxonomic groups is one of the primary goals of proposed future NASA missions like the Aerosol, Cloud, Ecology (ACE) mission.

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A new experiment suggests these household fish actually make good drivers.

While it may seem like fish will drive cars when pigs fly, in a new experiment scientists put goldfish’s sense of direction to the test.

Scientists at Ben-Gurion University in Israel taught several goldfish to drive a robotic “car”–essentially the opposite of a submarine, a tank of water on wheels–around a room. Teaching goldfish to navigate such unfamiliar terrain may seem like a fish-out-of-water idea, but they took to it like naturals.

The motorized fish tank was equipped with a camera to track the fish’s position. When the goldfish swam towards one of the walls, the fishmobile drove in that direction.

The researchers trained the fish over a dozen 30-minute sessions to drive to the center of a small room towards a pink board by giving the fish a treat whenever it arrived at its destination. In the first session, the goldfish averaged between 2-3 successful trips. By the end of the experiment, the fish were averaging between 17-18 successful trips per session.

As with humans, some of the fish took their driver’s ed quicker than others– taking faster and more direct paths to their target.

Throughout the experiment, researchers changed up the starting position of the fishmobiles. Even in different locations, the goldfish were still able to reach the pink board. This finding ruled out the possibility that the fish were just memorizing the pattern of movements to get to their reward. These marine animals were actually planning new routes to get to their destination.

From fish out of water to accomplished motorists.

“That was pretty conclusive that the fish actually navigate,” said Ohad Ben-Shahar, coauthor of the study. The animals’ sense of direction and orientation isn’t limited to the water.

After a successful bout of driving school, the team let one of the goldfish take a joyride throughout the entire building. “And it actually started to explore. It went down one of the corridors and started to sneak away,” said Ben-Shahar.

Maybe next they’ll teach a fish how to ride a bicycle. source

Fish Taught to Drive its Tank by Scientists at Israeli University

Scientists at Ben-Gurion University of the Negev have trained a fish to drive its own tank around. A camera mounted above the the animal’s water tracks its movement and steers the vehicle. The research was carried out to investigate how animals navigate.

Goldfish taught to drive little land vehicle to desired targets

A team of researchers at Ben-Gurion University of the Negev has taught goldfish to pilot a tiny land vehicle. In their paper published in the journal Behavioral Brain Research the group describes the vehicle, how the fish were taught to use it and the navigational skills they displayed.

Prior research has shown that some animals have surprising skills—rats, for example, are not only capable of driving around in little rat cars, but can use them to get to a desired destination. In this new effort, the researchers found that goldfish have similar abilities.

The work by the team in Israel was a means to learn more about navigational skills in general. More specifically, they wanted to know if goldfish, like other creatures, are able to use domain-transfer methodology by which a creature applies one set of navigational skills to multiple environments. To find out, they built a fish-operated vehicle (FOV): a small fish tank mounted on a wheeled frame. The team also fitted the FOV with a pole-mounted camera, processor and a LIDAR system pointed down at the fish in the tank. The LIDAR and camera were used to determine where the fish was in its tank and its orientation, and where the tank was in relation to its environment. The processor used the data to decide which direction to move the FOV. When a test fish pointed itself at a target, the FOV would drive in that direction.

Scientists taught goldfish to drive – and it turns out they’re pretty good at it

Goldfish are capable of navigating on land, Israeli researchers have found, after training fish to drive.

The team at Ben-Gurion University developed an FOV – a fish-operated vehicle. The robotic car is fitted with lidar, a remote sensing technology that uses pulsed laser light to collect data on the vehicle’s ground location and the fish’s whereabouts inside a mounted water tank.

A researcher prepares a goldfish for its driving lesson.

Ronen Zvulun/Reuters

A computer, camera, electric motors and omni-wheels give the fish control of the vehicle.

“Surprisingly, it doesn’t take the fish a long time to learn how to drive the vehicle. They’re confused at first. They don’t know what’s going on but they’re very quick to realize that there is a correlation between their movement and the movement of the machine that they’re in,” said researcher Shachar Givon.

Six goldfish, each receiving around 10 driving lessons, took part in the study. Each time one of them reached a target set by the researchers, it was rewarded with food.

And some goldfish are better drivers than others.

A researcher adjusts a fish-operated vehicle navigated by a goldfish.

Ronen Zvulun/Reuters

“There were very good fish that were doing excellent and there were mediocre fish that showed control of the vehicle but were less proficient in driving it,” said biology professor and neuroscientist Ronen Segev.

Showing that a fish has the cognitive capability to navigate outside its natural environment of water can expand scientific knowledge of animals’ essential navigation skills.

“We humans think of ourselves as very special and many think of fish as primitive but this is not correct,” said Segev. “There are other very important and very smart creatures.” source

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Watch This Goldfish Drive an Aquarium on Wheels

The car was designed to move depending on the fish’s location in its tank, showing animals can understand how to navigate foreign environments

A quote often misattributed to Albert Einstein states, “Everyone is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

By that logic, how smart is a fish that can learn to drive?

In a new study, researchers designed a souped-up aquarium on wheels to see if a goldfish can learn to navigate on dry land—and it worked. The experiment is meant to determine whether a fish’s navigation skills are universal regardless of their environment. The study will be published in the February 2022 issue of Behavioural Brain Research.

For survival, animals need navigation skills to find food, seek mates, migrate and more. However, researchers do not fully understand whether these navigation skills are specific to the environment an animal evolved to survive in. The ability to use navigation skills in unfamiliar settings is known as domain transfer methodology, reports Jonathan M. Gitlin for Ars Technica.

To determine whether a fish can navigate on dry land, the scientists used a fish-operated vehicle (FOV) with special software and a motion-sensing camera that can monitor where the fish is swimming in its rolling aquarium.

When the fish bumps into the tank’s walls or swims forward, for example, a camera above the tank tracks that movement. Based on the camera’s signalling, an algorithm moves the tank, allowing the fish to “drive” the car. The algorithm is powered by a small programming computer called Raspberry Pi,

Before the experimental tests could begin, the goldfish needed to learn how to drive the FOV. Six adventurous goldish were enrolled in “driving school” to learn how to move the FOV before the team collected the data. In 30-minute sessions conducted every two days, the fish were rewarded if they successfully directed the car to a pink-colored target in an enclosed space, Ars Technica reports.

The fish’s movement, orientation, and location were translated into instructions for the wheels of the FOV, allowing the car to move forward, backward, left or right. To move in a specific direction, the fish must be facing outside the tank in the direction it was moving towards. If a fish was oriented toward the middle of the tank, no movement would occur, reports Aristos Georgiou for Newsweek.

Once the goldfish were ready to speed off, the researchers tested their navigational skills by seeing if they could drive to a target. To check and see if the fish were actually navigating to targets and not just memorizing movements to earn a reward, the team changed the FOV’s starting position and added decoy targets in different colors.

All six fish successfully drove toward the visual target and even approached their mark from different angles, suggesting that the fishes understand the world around them, per Ars Technica. They all avoided dead-ends and corrected themselves throughout the trials, Vice reports.

All fish improved their time as the task was repeated. This finding suggests that the fish could learn from their environment and adjust accordingly. Not only does this show that fish can drive, but they can also adapt an ecosystem completely different from their own and move through it, reports Audrey Carleton for Vice.

“It shows that goldfish have the cognitive ability to learn a complex task in an environment completely unlike the one they evolved in. As anyone who has tried to learn how to ride a bike or to drive a car knows, it is challenging at first,” study author Shachar Givon, a graduate student at Ben-Gurion University, said in a statement. source

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Goldfish who can drive: why scientists taught fish to navigate a watery tank on wheels

This article is more than 2 years old

Israeli researchers say their fish – named after characters from Pride and Prejudice – reveal navigation is a universal ability

It might be an imaginary character straight out of a Dr Seuss book: The goldfish who could drive. But it’s real. Incredibly, Israeli researchers created a robotic car and report that they taught six fish – named after characters from Pride and Prejudice – to navigate it on land.

It’s all in the name of science, of course. The team had been dreaming up ways to test fish navigation for a while, according to Shachar Givon from Ben-Gurion University of the Negev, first author of a study published in the journal Behavioural Brain Research.

“Recently, we even ventured out to the coral reef of Eilat in an ongoing attempt to study navigation on a larger, more natural scale,” she says. “So we are always trying to challenge ourselves – and our fish. The idea of having the fish navigate on land seemed exactly like the impossible sort of challenge we like to tackle. Lucky for us it was not so impossible after all.”

The technical term for their challenge is “domain transfer methodology”, which means exploring whether a species can perform tasks outside its own environment. To pull it off, they drew inspiration from work that taught rodents and dogs to use an automated vehicle to reach a target and a previously designed contraption, “Fish on Wheels”.

First, the team, led by Prof Ronen Segev, created a watery tank on wheels that moved in response to the movements and orientation of the fish. Then they set about teaching the goldfish (Carassius auratus) how to drive it – much like humans learn to ride a bike or drive a car.

The fish first had to connect their own swimming movements to the movements of the vehicle so they could navigate it. Then they were given a destination: a pink target board in a foreign room that elicited a food reward when the vehicle touched it. A computerised camera system attached to this “fish operated vehicle” recorded and translated the fish’s swimming directions.

After several days of training, the fish successfully navigated the vehicle to the target from different starting positions in the room – even if they faced obstacles like false targets or hitting a wall. Some did particularly well. “Mr Darcy and Mr Bingley are the two fish featured in the different videos and were total rock stars,” Givon says.

Although previous studies have shown that fish can navigate within aquatic environments, the authors suggest this study shows the ability to navigate – which is essential for animal survival in many domains including for finding food, shelter and mates – is universal to all species and independent of the environment.

“Since on the evolutionary scale our common ancestor is very, very far back,” Givon says, “finding that fish share navigational skills similar to our own really speaks volumes to the importance of these skills in the animal kingdom”.

By manipulating different variables, the team also showed that the fish used a combination of cues to navigate, including the target’s colour and location.

We clearly have a lot to learn from these unassuming little marine creatures. Although fish are the largest and most diverse group of vertebrates, Givon notes they receive relatively little attention from scientists – especially with regard to their cognitive skills.

However, there are suggestions that fish have rich capacities beyond our own for vision, hearing, tasting and smelling. They even appear to use electric signals to communicate with each other and may have self-awareness.

The new study has other ramifications for our perception of the maligned goldfish, Givon suggests. “Maybe, just maybe, we also managed to disprove the stigma around goldfish and three-second memory …”

I hope you appreciated this article. Before you move on, I wanted to ask if you would consider supporting the Guardian’s journalism as we enter one of the most consequential news cycles of our lifetimes in 2024.

With the potential of another Trump presidency looming, there are countless angles to cover around this year’s election – and we’ll be there to shed light on each new development, with explainers, key takeaways and analysis of what it means for America, democracy and the world.

From Elon Musk to the Murdochs, a small number of billionaire owners have a powerful hold on so much of the information that reaches the public about what’s happening in the world. The Guardian is different. We have no billionaire owner or shareholders to consider. Our journalism is produced to serve the public interest – not profit motives.

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From threats to election integrity, to the spiraling climate crisis, to complex foreign conflicts, our journalists contextualize, investigate and illuminate the critical stories of our time. As a global news organization with a robust US reporting staff, we’re able to provide a fresh, outsider perspective – one so often missing in the American media bubble.

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Israeli scientists teach goldfish to drive a robotic car on land

The test subjects were successfully trained to navigate a “fish-operated vehicle” past obstacles and to a target at the opposite end of a room in return for a fish food reward.

An old joke goes like this: Two fish are in a tank and one says, “Do you know how to drive this thing?”

Israeli scientists appear to have found the answer.

A team from Ben-Gurion University has successfully taught goldfish to maneuver a robotic car on land, via a top-down camera that monitors their movements around a small fish tank.

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The camera in the “fish-operated vehicle” uses motion sensing technology to send a signal to one of its four wheels whenever a fish swims close to a side of the fish tank. Over time the fish learned that their movements would correspond to the movements of the vehicle.

The fish were successfully trained to reach a pink target at the opposite end of a room in return for a fish food reward — something they could do repeatedly and even with obstacles in their way.

The researchers say their study, published this month in the peer-reviewed Behavioral Brain Research journal, shows that the navigational abilities of fish stay intact in a land-based environment.

The process is called domain transfer methodology, when one species is placed in another’s environment and carries out an otherwise familiar task — in this case navigation. source

Marek’s disease is not a cut and dry chicken disease. It can show its ugly head in many different forms but can also be asymptomatic (your birds can be carriers of the disease but show no symptoms). Because Marek’s disease is so fickle, it can be a challenging ailment to diagnose and worst of all, it can be fatal. Knowing how to prevent Marek’s disease and recognize some of the characteristic symptoms of the disease can help prepare you should this chicken ailment affect your flock.

What is Marek’s Disease in Chickens?

Marek’s disease is a common virus that affects few other birds or animals besides chickens. It is a complex virus that can take on many forms, ranging from no symptoms to eventual paralysis that can result in death.  

Seemingly healthy chickens with a strong immune system can be affected by Marek’s disease but remain asymptomatic. Their body can be strong enough to fight against the virus and make it go dormant. Even though the chicken may show no symptoms of being affected by the virus, this chicken is still a carrier for the disease. 

Chickens that are affected symptomatically will exhibit one or more of the varying symptoms of the virus.  

Marek’s Disease Forms & Symptoms 

Marek’s disease is a very difficult disease to diagnose in chickens. It can cause a chicken to show no symptoms, show a single symptom, show multiple symptoms, or simply show symptoms sporadically.  

There are generally 5 recognized forms of Marek’s disease: 

•  Eye Form (aka gray eye, ocular lymphatosis)– graying & shrunken iris, irregular-shaped pupil, un-equal pupil sizes, blindness in one or both eyes 
•  Nerve Form (aka neural leukosis)– lack of coordination or walking stilted, muscle spasms, progressive paralysis of neck, legs or wings, weight loss, paleness, enlarged crop, gasping
•  Transient Nerve Form (aka pseudobotulism)- temporary limp paralysis of neck or legs
•  Skin Form (aka cutaneous Marek’s)– enlarged feather follicles (especially on legs), reddened and bloody looking shanks
•  Visceral Form (aka visceral leukosis)– rapid weight loss, sometimes greenish diarrhea, massive internal tumors

Both the eye form and the skin form of Marek’s disease are rare for chickens to contract while the transient nerve and visceral form are the most common. The transient nerve form often causes sporadic symptoms and rarely leads to death. The visceral form of Marek’s disease is the deadliest and usually causes a 60-80% mortality rate, yet the eye and the nerve form of can also lead to an early death. 

Different forms of the virus will cause a chicken to exhibit different symptoms. However, there are some characteristic symptoms that will be true of any chicken who contracts the Marek’s disease virus. Carriers will exhibit immunosuppression and may show frustrating come-and-go symptoms with no resolutions. Immunosuppression can be transient, which means it does not last, leaving the chicken susceptible to disease for short periods of time before the immune system becomes strong again. However, full immunosuppression is also possible, in which the chicken has no ability to fight any other diseases or parasites. 

It is not uncommon for chickens affected by Marek’s disease to have slow growing tumors developing inside that are impossible to diagnose until a postmortem examination is performed.  

How Common is Marek’s Disease?

Unfortunately, Marek’s disease is very common in chickens. Those more pessimistic may tell you to simply assume your flock is a carrier of the disease even though they may show no symptoms. Marek’s is so common that your entire flock has likely been exposed to the virus, but they remain healthy enough to keep the virus dormant. This is yet another reason why it’s important to invest in a feed with proper nutrition! 

Marek’s disease is most common in young or growing chickens/pullets. Birds between the ages of four weeks and six months are the most susceptible while building up their immune defenses. Even though Marek’s disease most commonly affects young birds, older chickens can also contract the virus and are more than likely carriers. Stressors such as overcrowding, moving to a new location, poor coop ventilation, parasites, or even the natural process of maturing and reproducing can all make way for Marek’s disease to become active.  

Even though Marek’s disease can be an asymptomatic disease, it can also cause slow-growing tumors to develop internally, making the chicken appear asymptomatic at first. As the tumors grow the chicken may slowly decline in health until the tumors become so large that they lead to death.  

What Causes Marek’s Disease in Chickens?

Marek’s disease is caused by the herpes virus and is considered a viral tumor disease. The virus targets a chicken’s tumor-blocking genes and antibody-producing cells, inhibiting the ability to fight tumors or produce antibodies. Without antibodies, a chicken’s immune system is severely weakened, paving the way for other diseases and parasites to take hold.  

Because the Marek’s virus impairs a chicken’s immune system, it is not uncommon for Marek’s disease to become symptomatic when the chicken is affected by other ailments, such as coccidiosis or a chronic respiratory infection. To make Marek’s disease even harder to diagnose, some of the symptoms of Marek’s disease are the same symptoms as other common chicken diseases.  

It may seem as if an ailment or disease caused a chicken to get Marek’s disease, when really the virus was present all along and it became active when the chicken’s body was stressed by another ailment.  

Is Marek’s Disease Contagious? 

Marek’s disease is highly contagious amongst chickens. Chickens who are exposed to another chicken diagnosed with Marek’s must be considered lifelong carriers even if they show no symptoms or were even vaccinated for Marek’s disease. The Marek’s virus can survive in affected areas for at least five months and potentially up to many years.  

The virus is commonly spread by chicken dander and other chickens can contract it though inhalation. Here’s some good news! Marek’s cannot be spread by means of hatching eggs, which means a hen who is a carrier of the disease will not spread the disease to her eggs. Brood young chicks away from adult chickens unless you are using a broody hen.  

Chicks who are not raised by a broody hen can be raised isolated from adult birds for five months to help them overcome the virus as adults. The five month ‘quarantine’ time allows their immune systems to become strong enough to fight the virus when they are exposed. Some chicken breeds are more resistant to the virus than others. However, Silkies, Polish, Sebrights, and a few other exotic chicken breeds tend to be more susceptible to Marek’s disease.  

Can chickens spread Marek’s Disease?

Chickens can only spread Marek’s disease to other chickens.  

Can humans get Marek’s disease?

No, Marek’s disease is not zoonotic, which means it cannot be spread across species. The eggs and meat from chickens who contract Marek’s disease are safe to eat.  

Can ducks get Marek’s disease?

No, in most cases Marek’s disease is not contagious to other domestic poultry besides chickens. Some occasional cases have been reported in quail and turkeys.  

Is Marek’s Disease Treatable?

Marek’s disease is not treatable. There is no known cure for Marek’s disease, and it cannot be 100% symptomatically diagnosed while the chicken is still alive. The only way for Marek’s disease to be diagnosed positively is through a DNA blood test or a PCR test. Postmortem examinations can reveal large tumors, but there is no way to identify Marek’s disease as the cause of the tumors without a blood test or a PCR test.  

If you suspect one of your chickens is showing symptoms of Marek’s disease, explore other causes of the symptom and try potential treatments since you won’t know for sure that your chicken has Marek’s disease. Here are some other poultry ailments that can mimic symptoms similar to Marek’s disease: 

•  Vitamin Deficiencies– learn more about dietary deficiencies here  
•  Avian Lymphoid Leukosis – causes emancipation due to internal tumors 
•  Toxicity or Poisoning – heavy metal & lead toxicity or poisoning from aflatoxins in moldy or stale feed
•  Botulism – caused by a toxin that attacks the body’s nervous system  
•  Egg Binding – occurs when a hen is unable to lay an egg 
•  Hypocalcemia – often called layer fatigue and is due to dangerously low calcium levels
•  Internal & External Parasites–  mites, lice, & internal worms
•  Ear Infections – will sometimes cause a chicken to hold its head at an odd angle
•  Avian Encephalomyelitis – can cause paralysis
•  Viral Tenosynovitis – poultry version of arthritis and can cause difficulty walking
•  Mycoplasma Infection – a respiratory disease that can also be asymptomatic
•  Bumblefoot–  staph infection of the foot pad that can cause a chicken to limp or walk funny

Should I Use the Marek’s Disease Vaccination on my Flock?

The Marek’s disease chicken vaccine is available and can be administered as a preventative against Marek’s disease. Keep in mind that the Marek’s disease vaccine only works as a preventive and is NOT a treatment for Marek’s disease. Chickens can still contract Marek’s disease if they are exposed, regardless of if they have been vaccinated or not.  

Chickens of any age can be vaccinated; however, the vaccine will not be effective if the chickens have already been exposed to the virus. To be the most effective, chicks should be vaccinated within 24 hours after hatching. Ideally, they should then be kept separate from any other birds as their immune system gradually builds up resistance to the virus.  

The Marek’s vaccine helps a chicken gradually build up resistance to the virus. It can reduce the chances of a chicken exhibiting symptoms and can help reduce shedding of the virus through dander.  

The Marek’s disease vaccine is not 100% effective. About 5% of chickens who have been vaccinated for Marek’s disease end up getting the virus anyways. As the virus becomes more common, the vaccine becomes less effective against new strains of the virus.  

The MDV-3 vaccine is the most common vaccine administered to non-commercial chickens for preventing Marek’s disease. This vaccine cannot cause a chicken to be infected by the virus or spread the virus. The vaccine is derived from a natural virus carried by turkeys which prevents the Marek’s disease virus from forming tumors.  

Whether you get your flock vaccinated for Marek’s disease or not is up to you. It may depend on the age of your flock and whether you think they have already been exposed to Marek’s disease or not.  

Conclusion

Marek’s disease is a common virus that can affect a chicken in different forms and to varying degrees. If you suspect one of your chickens has Marek’s, it is a good idea to assume that your whole flock is now carriers of the virus. As discouraging as Marek’s disease can be, keeping your flock in good health and preventing common stressors can help prevent Marek’s disease from becoming a big issue! Keeping your flock healthy starts with quality feed and plenty of water, preventing stressors from letting Marek’s take hold. If you are concerned about your flock spreading Marek’s disease, you can always consult with your local vet or an avian vet. source